pikpilot

This is page from Ross-Tech with suggestions of what to do. What is your engine type code letters (see code for engine on the sticker near spare wheel well)? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16785/P0401/001025

The 1.2L engine in the Mk 111 Fabia is a dry belt. There is only one bolt plus some clips to remove the top cover over the belt for belt inspection. I do not know of any VAG engine with other than the conventional dry belt.

Glad you fixed it. In essence what you did was use the immobiliser RFID chip from the old fob in the new fob. Well done.

Assuming the coolant level is normal when cold (see post immediately above) then excess coolant coming out when you release the cap (again when cold) can indicate that the coolant system is being pressurised by gasses from a failing head gasket. Another sign of this is if the cold coolant level shows coolant has been lost. Gasses in the coolant can also give rise to variations in dash temperature readings. Do not overfill the coolant bottle above the central seam or the expansion bottle can not do its job.

Yes, that is correct. But you need the key to work in the door lock in order to programme the RFID chip yourself and so avoid resorting to expensive programming directly into the ECU by a Skoda technician. I also asked the question about the door lock as you will not be able open the doors (because of a fob battery failure or radio interference) if the ignition key is unable to manually open the doors.

The RFID part is in the body (blade) part. However, after giving it some more thought, I must ask if the garage also changed the door lock. If the new key operates the door lock then either he has just replaced the blade with an original cut blade (or put a new blade in a new fob) or he changed the door lock as well. If the door lock does not work with the new key then the blade is different. If this is the case it presents a new problem as programming a new key yourself need to have a working key in the ignition and the new key used for locking and unlocking the driver's door lock with the blade. The only other alternative to have Skoda reprogramme the ECU for the new key. I suggest you still do the blade change as in my previous post and you post the result. Also report whether the blade works in the door lock.

It is likely that RFID chip in the fob is not recognised as J.R. said. It is easy to break the tiny chip when ungluing it so, as have the old fob, then it a simple job to swap out the old broken blade for the blade from the new fob.

The difference may be due to the fact that one quote is for the older 1.2 TSI 90 bhp and the other is a the newer 1.0 TSI. I will call my local Skoda garage and ask about the timing belt life on our 1.2 90bhp 2016 car.

Also check the earth cable from the battery negative to the body. Check too the cable itself at the battery end. On previous models it was found that black wire corrosion had been found running down the inside of the cable from the crimp connection.

Long shot is that it is the accelerator pedal position sensor in the "drive by wire" accelerator pedal. A proper diagnostics check with VCSD should find or eliminate this as a cause.

No. Climatronic systems work by mixing hot air with ambient air or cold air from the air-con. There are several sensors for the different locations,such as outside air, left side air vent out, right side air vent, footwell air temp and others. There is one for general cabin air temp which can be seen as a small raised "button" in the centre of the control panel. You need to have the diagnostics done by someone who has VCDS or similar software. Or use a competent garage, air conditioning specialist or perhaps an auto electrician.

There is a forum on here which is for Diagnostics and VCDS. Take a look and you will see a map of members willing to help. You will also see the colour codes for the locations in the forum. As a starter here is the map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=52.81119909612754%2C1.1402199614690733&z=8

Sounds like the brushes are worn down or, as on mine, the brushes are sticking in their holders. In both cases you can fix the problem yourself.

Not sure I understand what you are saying above. I have the same engine and refused to have the emission service action. My car has had the stationary car rev limiter from new. As you say, a very good feature. It was not part of the software "upgrade" as far as I can tell. If you are saying the feature was removed when they did the emissions service action, I am would be surprised that they could have deleted such a necessary protection.

When I bought my previous estate it smelt awful inside due the previous owner using it to carry dogs in the back and especially the boot. I fixed it over a couple of days by spraying the seats and carpets with Febreze textile spray. No more smell.

Anti lock brake system doing its job?

Yes, it could. Do the test I advised and especially look for wear on rubber components. Check too for slack where the drive shaft connects to the shaft coming out of the gearbox. I am surprised your garage did not do these tests when replacing the suspension. I would also suggest you take off each front wheel in turn and check their work. Do both sides look the same? Any loose or missing bolts? Were all the wheel bolts tight and properly seated?

Lost motion is where a driven shaft has slack before being connected to the next shaft. Term used to be used with steering systems having a gearbox at the end of the steering column. In your case I wondered if the drive shafts or coupling were worn. Easily checked by grabbing a drive shaft and trying to turn it in both directions. Repeat on the other drive shaft and compare. Alternatively, raise each front wheel in turn and rotate the road wheel back and forth looking for slack.

Have you checked for lost motion in the drive shafts?

Sounds like it is a temperature sensor problem. I assume yours is a Climatronic model.

As you can see from the photos in the two threads where I reported the bulb problem, the cause is not so much the heat but the vibration of the plastic tray on which the lights are mounted. However I agree that using fogs as DRLs avoids or reduces the effects the vibration on the bulbs as the fog light bulbs are contained more rigidly in a larger mass. I find cornering lights is a better use of the fog lights.

Like mine, yours was shipped from the factory with the lamps installed and wired up but needing a 2 part software change to get them working. The first part is to tell the controller that you want to activate them. I used the Carista app connecting to the diagnostic port through an ELM 327 unit via bluetooth or wifi (depending on which version you chose to purchase). Equally you could use the popular but expensive VCDS software (and there may be others). Look at the VCDS pages on Briskoda where there is a map showing members willing to do the work for you for a few beer tokens. Thirdly, a VAG dealership could do it at dealer rates. Having had the activation done, the next step is shown in your driver's handbook. It shows how to turn the driving lights on and off at will using one of the stalks on the steering column. Just a bit confusing is that they call this activation rather than on/off. One final point is that if you choose the Carista app you will also be able to activate other comfort features such as cornering lights, coming home lights, auto turn on of the rear wiper when reversing if the front wiper is on and much more. The list is on the Carista page for your model. Take a look but I am told cost is now much more than the small price I paid as an early adopter.

Yes we get Lidl and Aldi products in the UK but specials are seasonal and sell out fast. One thing to watch is that booster type chargers (and my ALDI charger, say in the small print that the battery should be removed from the car before charging as it can take to battery over 16V during "conditioning".

Take out your headlight and look at the part number (depends on auto headlights). Enter this info into google and make a search. prices range from £11 to £34. The latter is a guaranteed genuine part. Here is one example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291986233110?hash=item43fbbc5716%3Ag%3AL6sAAOSwFTNa1wuh&fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDI|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Year%3A2009|Model%3AOctavia|Variant%3ADiesel+Hatch|Engine%3A1598cc+77KW+105HP+CAYC|BodyStyle%3AFWD+II+1Z3 and a European source (Skoda Parts): https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/headlight-switch-15137/skoda/octavia/octavia-1z3/31590-1-6-tdi

The switch is relatively cheap (in the UK or on-line from Prague) so why not just replace it? The injector failure is unlikely to be related to a light switch failure.