pikpilot

Assuming you have Climate Control, if you do drive the car then make sure the aircon is ON. The humidity control is effectively seperate to the heating and cooling. The incoming air first cooled by the aircon to condense out any excess moisture in the air. The cooled air is then passed to the heater system to raise the air to the temperature you have set on the display. In the UK it is very effective in wet weather to stop the windows "steaming up" - that is say letting moisture in the air condense out on the windows. This is what the climate control does by condensing out excess water before feeding the air into the car. Our cars have an energy efficient variable pump rate where the compressor is always being driven but power being used varies from near zero to max, determined by the control system I leave my air con ON for 90% of the year and the difference in fuel consumption is only seen in the hottest of summer weather.

Can you borrow a good battery for a few days to show that the battery is being drained and not just a battery problem.

The battery is the source of power but the ding/ping is telling you that at the point of use the voltage is lower. Check battery connections, check in the engine bay fuse box for corrosion on connections, Look for signs of overheated or melted plastic on fuse holders in this fuse box.

Check your battery. A ding is usually caused by low battery voltage

Yes, but I suggest you look at the many threads on here to avoid pitfalls and get recommendations.

I had this problem and it was due to moisture around the BCM area. Leaving the doors and windows open on a dry day solved it and the problem has never returned. I found that switching on different things such as indicators would cause a different set of wrong lights on the display. Have you had extensive rain lately? Maybe the interior is getting wet?

The standard Elegance model did not come with Bluetooth or the buttons on the wheel or the Multi Function Display. The Radio button can be used to mute the standard Bolero radio. Most people who want more, change the radio to a chinese version to get bluetooth, DAB radio GPS map etc

It will also do this if you don't use the car for a few days and you have a tired battery suffering with self discharge.

As skomaz asked. Is it for: 1 Front gearbox? or 2 Rear Haldex coupling? or 3 Rear differential?

The glow plug light is used as a general warning light for anything that needs attention and is an indication that a fault code has been created and is stored. The usual reason for going into limp mode is that the variable vanes in the turbo have become clogged with hard soot. Limp mode usually happens when you ask the engine to give extra torque such as putting your foot down on a steep hill. It can be reset temporarily by turning off the engine then restarting. Is yours a 1.6 TDI, engine code CAYC? Did your car have the emissions service action and was this the reason for the EGR failure? Look for a sticker in the boot near the spare wheel showing 23R6. Next step is to have the failure code(s) read.

The latest alarm used on facelift Octavias is the H12. Previous models had the H09. There is a fix-it guide with part numbers for both models in the pinned thread above these active threads. Cost from Skoda is around £205 plus £60 if you ask them to fit it. Although I have seen some new H12 alarm units alone on the net at around £250. Beware of the £40 used alarms.

I discovered the horns recently when doing this on my facelift model too.

Check for broken or damaged wires inside the rubber tube between the front edge of the driver's door and body.

Immobiliser issues allow you to start the engine and lets it run for around 10 seconds, then cuts the engine.

Sounds like someone has changed the ignition lock at some time. 1) They have changed the ignition lock and given you two new ignition keys which they had synchronised with the immobiliser. 2) They ignored the fact that the driver door can only be opened with the key that fits the old ignition barrel. Ideally you need to fit a door lock barrel which accepts the same blade as the ignition key. It is usually the ignition key barrel that seizes not the door barrel

That is a very open question so please tell us if you want a petrol or diesel, and for the particular car you have found, the engine code. The engine code can be found on a label near the spare wheel. An example is shown below. in this example the engine code is CJZC.

You were on the right track when you replaced the MAF as P0101 relates to that. When did you last replace the engine air filter as ths is one potential cause? Here is the definitive list of causes and actions: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16485/P0101/000257

With so many functions no longer getting power, I would check the fuses in the fusebox next the air filter under the bonnet. The fuses there feed the smaller fuses inside the car.

When you replace the alarm I recommend you spend the money and get a genuine unit. There are many of secondhand alarm units on the 'bay market and there is some evidence that they may be the old units that people have taken out when fitting a new one! If you want to put in a new battery in the old alarm (as long as the old one has not corroded the printed circuit board) then take a look at the sticky alarm thread above - and also shown below. Your car is only one year older than mine and is the facelift version so ignore the older link I posted in the repair thread.

Also take off all relevant hoses and check for a flap of hose skin from the inside of the pipe which has blocked the hose.

What does the old oil smell like? Could it be the oil is being diluted by diesel fuel.

There are no relays in the doors but the click you hear is the motor trying to move the glass but held back by the torque limit control (also know known as the finger pinch limit when closing). You obviously have something in the mechanism that is putting too much load on the motor. This happens in the winter time here when ice sticks the glass to the frame. Check your battery as a weak battery will give a similar result. There is an override described in the handbook of your car. Press the up or down button as appropriate for 5+ seconds then briefly release and immediately try again as normal. If this does not work then there is a serious blockage to movement that must be investigated inside the door. One last thing you can try is have someone put the flats of their hands each side of the window glass [with the door open] and try to slide the glass down while you operate the switch.

Once the old solder was molton I added in some leaded solder. However, I know that this is not the complete answer as leaded solder tends to spread out more under pressure and vibration as had happened on one of my previous repairs.

I posted a few years back about a bulb failure in one of my DRL lights. It is not really a failure of the bulb but of the solder pip on the bulb being fretted away by vibration of the plastic under trim. It is the reason why the manufacture fits a non standard bulb with a thicker anti vibration element, type PY21W SLL. When you get a bulb failure for DRL it is unlikely that you need to change the bulb, only reflow the solder (and perhaps add a little more solder) on the pip. It will then last another 25+k miles. Thought you may like what my bulb looked like when I took it out to reflow the solder:-

Glad you're homing in on the source. Just a small warning: do not unplug the connectors under the seat unless you have disconnected the battery and left it a while. Some of those connections are for airbags/belt tensioners.