pikpilot

Those older threads, from memory, show how to remove the trim to get to the back of the socket to remove it - with a caution about short cable lengths.

There are old threads that show how to wire a packaged 12 volt to USB converter to a switched supply in the cabin fuse box. The USB socket is mounted in one of the spare blanks below the radio.

Could be the motor brushes have worn down or they are sticking in the brush holders.

I have brochure for my 2012 car and it only list the Classic, Ambiente and Elegance models plus L+K and VRs. As 2012/2013 was a changeover model year, I suggest you look for a sales brochure for 2013 models. It will show pictures and names for each trim option if it follows the design of the 2012 brochure. Take a look at the manuals and brochures pinned thread at the top of the page for a start.

If your mechanic is suspecting bent valves it suggests that the timing chain has failed. Normally there is other damage as well in that situation. If you are in the UK you may get more selling the car for spares and putting the money towards a better car. If you are elsewhere then you will have to investigate your local market.

Well at least you now have access to the passenger door which is progress. Take off the door card and see if the cable pull has come off the inside door opening lever or at the other end. It is easy to make this mistake here when putting the door card back. The fact that there is no door open icon on the dash says that either the signal wire is broken/poor contact and you still have some electrical cable issues. Final thought is the microswitch in the door lock that produces the door open icon amongst other things is no longer functioning. If so, replacing the mechanism is the best way out, but be sure you have explored all other possibilities first.

It would seem from another forum that fuel consumption was worse after The Fix, and only cured by going back to the original software - a difficult task. My own non fixed car mirrors your consumption but I only get over 70 mpg when on long summer journeys where most of the time I am forced to keep to ~50mph with no interuptions.

Did your car having the dreaded emissions fix? I am guessing not.

Worth checking the wires for breaks in the drivers door flexible conduit between the door and body. Some of those wires go the passenger door.

Don't confuse no load battery voltage with the on load current capability. If in doubt then get a free battery test from Halfrauds or similar where they use a high current checker. You will get unrelated warnings on the dash if the battery voltage is too low while cranking. It is caused by the voltage being too low for the electronics.

This is the warning that there is a battery problem. It can also come on if you are parked and using the battery - in my case listening the radio for some hours. Normally a sign of an old failing battery that cannot hold its charge overnight due to high self discharge.

Revs are limited on petrol and diesel models to avoid damage when revving in park or neutral.

I have no experience with the seat adjustment on Mk2 Octavias but some on the Mk1. I would suggest there are some similarities. On the Mk 1, the knob itself was a poor fit on the metal part behind and often became loose and spun free or came off. Another cause was the shaft working in a worn "bearing" at the other end to the knob shaft. This is all a long time ago for me but I suggest you look in the Mk 1 forum for clues and fixes then see if they could apply to your car.

Assuming you have Climate Control, if you do drive the car then make sure the aircon is ON. The humidity control is effectively seperate to the heating and cooling. The incoming air first cooled by the aircon to condense out any excess moisture in the air. The cooled air is then passed to the heater system to raise the air to the temperature you have set on the display. In the UK it is very effective in wet weather to stop the windows "steaming up" - that is say letting moisture in the air condense out on the windows. This is what the climate control does by condensing out excess water before feeding the air into the car. Our cars have an energy efficient variable pump rate where the compressor is always being driven but power being used varies from near zero to max, determined by the control system I leave my air con ON for 90% of the year and the difference in fuel consumption is only seen in the hottest of summer weather.

Can you borrow a good battery for a few days to show that the battery is being drained and not just a battery problem.

The battery is the source of power but the ding/ping is telling you that at the point of use the voltage is lower. Check battery connections, check in the engine bay fuse box for corrosion on connections, Look for signs of overheated or melted plastic on fuse holders in this fuse box.

Check your battery. A ding is usually caused by low battery voltage

Yes, but I suggest you look at the many threads on here to avoid pitfalls and get recommendations.

I had this problem and it was due to moisture around the BCM area. Leaving the doors and windows open on a dry day solved it and the problem has never returned. I found that switching on different things such as indicators would cause a different set of wrong lights on the display. Have you had extensive rain lately? Maybe the interior is getting wet?

The standard Elegance model did not come with Bluetooth or the buttons on the wheel or the Multi Function Display. The Radio button can be used to mute the standard Bolero radio. Most people who want more, change the radio to a chinese version to get bluetooth, DAB radio GPS map etc

It will also do this if you don't use the car for a few days and you have a tired battery suffering with self discharge.

As skomaz asked. Is it for: 1 Front gearbox? or 2 Rear Haldex coupling? or 3 Rear differential?

The glow plug light is used as a general warning light for anything that needs attention and is an indication that a fault code has been created and is stored. The usual reason for going into limp mode is that the variable vanes in the turbo have become clogged with hard soot. Limp mode usually happens when you ask the engine to give extra torque such as putting your foot down on a steep hill. It can be reset temporarily by turning off the engine then restarting. Is yours a 1.6 TDI, engine code CAYC? Did your car have the emissions service action and was this the reason for the EGR failure? Look for a sticker in the boot near the spare wheel showing 23R6. Next step is to have the failure code(s) read.

The latest alarm used on facelift Octavias is the H12. Previous models had the H09. There is a fix-it guide with part numbers for both models in the pinned thread above these active threads. Cost from Skoda is around £205 plus £60 if you ask them to fit it. Although I have seen some new H12 alarm units alone on the net at around £250. Beware of the £40 used alarms.

I discovered the horns recently when doing this on my facelift model too.