pikpilot

My 2012 car has the same fuse location card ('768E) but it is overruled by the fuse location chart in the handbook. They seem to change some fuse locations dependant on model and engine variants so how do your known fuse locations compare with the driver's handbook? My handbook chart for fuses is:= 1 Diagnostic socket, Engine control unit, Electrical fuel pump 2 Control unit for ABS, ESP 3 Airbag 4 Heating, Air conditioning system, Reversing lights 5 Control unit for headlamp beam adjustment 6 Instrument cluster, control unit for automatic gearbox, control unit for electromechanical power steering, parking aid, Haldex coupling Instrument cluster, control unit for automatic gearbox, control unit for electromechanical power steering, parking aid, Haldex coupling 7 Not assigned 8 Not assigned 9 Not assigned 10 Not assigned 11 Not assigned 12 Central locking control unit 13 Diagnostic socket, Light switch 14 Control unit for automatic gearbox, Selector lever lock 15 Central control unit - interior lights 16 Climatronic 17 Not assigned 18 Rear window wiper 19 Control unit for trailer detection 20 Not assigned 21 Cornering lights for the left and right side 22 Air blower for Climatronic 23 Front power window 24 Cigarette lighter 25 Rear window heater. Rear window heater, Auxiliary heating (auxiliary heating and ventilation) 26 Power socket in the luggage compartment 27 Fuel pump relay, Injection valves (diesel engine) 28 Radio 29 Engine control unit, Crankcase ventilation heater 30 Control unit for automatic gearbox 31 Vacuum pump 32 Rear power window 33 Electric sliding/tilting roof 34 Control unit for convenience functions 35 Anti-theft alarm system 36 Headlight cleaning system 37 Front seat heating 38 Heated rear seats 39 Instrument cluster, windshield wiper lever and turn signal light lever 40 Air blower for heating and air conditioning 41 Not assigned 42 Not assigned 43 Towing device 44 Towing device 45 Towing device 46 Seat heaters 47 Relay for auxiliary heating 48 Phone 49 Light switch

Looks like your due a turbo clean or replacement. On my Mk1 Octavia I was able to send the turbo away to a specialist turbo cleaner company but I have never seen one advertising in recent years. So, look up Mr Muscle cleaning on this and the Mk1 forums or convince yourself that at the current mileage (you don't say what it is) it is probably worth replacing the turbo now for peace of mind.

A common cause for going into limp mode in a diesel car (you don't tell us your engine code) is the variable vane turbo becoming stuck by a build up of carbon deposits. If you stop the car when in limp mode, turn off the engine then restart it, the limp mode will be reset. If it happens again when requesting high torque (such when going uphill or when overtaking) then that is a good indication of the turbo problem I mentioned. You can buy an ELM 327 unit to plug into the diagnostic port for a small sum. This connects to your phone or laptop (via bluetooth or WiFi) to read fault codes via suitable apps. Use google and YouTube to educate yourself if you are new to this.

Have you done a fault code search which includes the climatronic system? You also check the climatronic system by pressing the right combination of its buttons. Search on You Tube for the right combination for your model. The hot air from the heater matrix is directed and mixed with cold air by a series of motor controlled flaps. You may have a stuck or failed flap motor. This is a separate issue to coolant pressure problems. The auxiliary water pump comes on for about 10-30 seconds after the engine has stopped to circulate coolant and so avoid hot spots in the system. You can hear it running if you are in a quiet place.

Drivers door is probably due to a failed microswitch in the door control unit in the door or a broken wire in the trunking between the door frame and the door. I am guessing that the gear lever release lock wont let you move into gear with a door open. Look in your handbook for manually bypassing the lock. Here is what mine says (with picture not copied): Selector lever-emergency unlocking Fig. 109 Selector lever-emergency unlocking In case of interruption of the power supply (e.g. flat vehicle battery, defective fuse) or defect of the selector lever lock, the selector lever can no longer be shifted from the position P in the normal way and the vehicle can no longer be moved. The selector lever must be unlocked in case of emergency. – Apply the handbrake firmly. – Open the storage compartment in front centre console or the front ashtray. – Carefully pull up the front left and right cover. – Pull up rear cover. – Use a finger to press the yellow plastic part in direction of arrow ⇒ fig. 109. – Simultaneously press the shiftlock button in the handle of the selector lever and shift the lever into the position N (if the selector lever is shifted again into the position P, it is once again blocked). 

You can also rule out a poor earth connection if you connect the negative of the jump battery to the engine block or similar instead of the battery negative. Do the interior lights dim excessively when cranking?

I know you said you charged the battery overnight but your symptoms are typical of a battery that reduces its terminal voltage too far when cranking. Try using jump leads to another car when starting just to rule out the battery.

This is from the Driver's Manual of a 2011 build car (such as mine built end of 2011 and first registered in March 2012). Not mentioned in the manual for 2012 build cars. Indicator light in the driver's door After locking the vehicle, the warning light flashes for around 2 seconds in quick succession, afterwards it begins to flash evenly at longer intervals. If the vehicle is locked and the safe securing system is not operating, the indicator light in the driver door flashes for about 2 seconds fast, goes out and starts to flash evenly at longer intervals after about 30 seconds. If the indicator light first of all flashes fast for about 2 seconds, afterwards lights up for about 30 seconds and then flashes slowly, there is a fault in the system of the central locking or the interior monitor. Visit a specialist garage to obtain assistance.

When the door open symbol does not come on it is usually a faulty lock mechanism (often failed microswitch as said by J.R) or a broken wire in the tube that takes wires from the body to the door ( the elephant's trunk you see when you open the door. A word of caution: when the drivers door open symbol is not showing, the car will auto lock after about ten minutes. Always carry the key with you.

Try asking the question in Briskoda VCDS Forum. Many more experienced users in that forum. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Just turn off the radio before you disconnect the old battery and the radio will start once you turn it on again with the new battery in place.

Usually a poor contact with a bulb. I currently have a warning which Carista tell me is a failed number plate bulb. Both are lit whenever I look. Will remove the bulbs to clean the contacts when I have the time in the next week.

If you don't have the information display (like many Mk2, including mine) you can change the way the locking system works using the Carista app through the diagnostic port. This is the same as "a specialist garage" in the handbook quote above.

Yes, it takes a while for the coolant and oil to reach operating temperature. Once your coolant temperature gauge is near to 90C, the windscreen vents will be very effective. If you can drive the car, this will warm the coolant faster than idleing the engine.

Thanks. This confirms my suspicions as the locking tab just seems to bend. I will try your tip before going for more force - if the current heavy rain stops tomorrow!

Thanks Guys. I have tried various tools to successfully grip the thin curved lever but I just can't apply enough pull force to get it moving. Anyone tried a soft faced hammer? I thinking of applying a rope to give good constant force and a hammer to shock load at the same time. I did wonder if the locking tab is just bending when I press it rather than disengaging? Any other tricks? Thanks again.

I want to replace my dipped beam bulbs. First job is to remove the headlight units. I looks so easy in the manual and in the on-line videos but after 11 years without being touched, pulling on the release lever does nothing (yes I did also press on the locking tab). The mechanism must be corroded or filled with dirt. Pull as I might, the light unit wont unlock. Anyone got any tips?

When my water pump failed at around 55k miles (under warranty) they also changed the timing belt as the coolant is detrimental to the rubber. And it was about nine months away from requiring its first belt change anyway. Serendipity.

Reports on another former would indicate that on our early CAYC 1.6 CR engines, once one injector fails the others soon follow. Not good news but be prepared.

I never use the service position. It is easier to switch on the ignition, press single wipe then turn off the ignition when the arms are vertical.

Dig around on the internet and you will find people who used to offer reversion to original factory shipped software. Most have gone since the conclusion of the successful claim against VW but finding someone who used to do it is a starting point.

Can't answer your question but before you change the motor check that you have volts to the motor - my guess is that the supply is on the red/white cable. Common problem is broken wires in the rubber trunking between the door and the body.

The point I was making is all those functions worked on the old lock but had to be configured again with the new lock in place. Somehow the previous configuration had been lost. The garage could not answer "why?" either.

Was your new lock the exact same part number as the old one? I had my driver's door lock replaced by a Skoda garage using an extended car warranty. But some of its feature such as the light at the bottom of the door card and the puddle light in the mirror did not initially work and had to re-programed in. I suspect there may be some replacement door locks out there that are generic and must be programmed for your model/trim/features. My car (without folding mirror) reacts to a long press on the open/close buttons on the remote by lowering or raising all the windows. Perhaps another sign of re-programing required on your new lock or the controller in the drivers door. Someone with VCDS will be able to help. [See the forum pages on VCDS to find someone near you].

There could be common source for all your problems which should be checked first. Take a look in the boot on the passenger side. You may need to remove some trim dependant on your model variant, but find where a number of brown wires are connected to a metal stud(s) welded to the body side or floor. This is the earth/negative connection for the rear functions. Water in the boot or released when the rear washer supply pipe has frozen and come off/split (washer fluid low concentration) can cause corrosion of the stud/ring connectors/ wires. This should be checked first before exploring the many other possibilities,