pikpilot

Yes, it takes a while for the coolant and oil to reach operating temperature. Once your coolant temperature gauge is near to 90C, the windscreen vents will be very effective. If you can drive the car, this will warm the coolant faster than idleing the engine.

Thanks. This confirms my suspicions as the locking tab just seems to bend. I will try your tip before going for more force - if the current heavy rain stops tomorrow!

Thanks Guys. I have tried various tools to successfully grip the thin curved lever but I just can't apply enough pull force to get it moving. Anyone tried a soft faced hammer? I thinking of applying a rope to give good constant force and a hammer to shock load at the same time. I did wonder if the locking tab is just bending when I press it rather than disengaging? Any other tricks? Thanks again.

I want to replace my dipped beam bulbs. First job is to remove the headlight units. I looks so easy in the manual and in the on-line videos but after 11 years without being touched, pulling on the release lever does nothing (yes I did also press on the locking tab). The mechanism must be corroded or filled with dirt. Pull as I might, the light unit wont unlock. Anyone got any tips?

When my water pump failed at around 55k miles (under warranty) they also changed the timing belt as the coolant is detrimental to the rubber. And it was about nine months away from requiring its first belt change anyway. Serendipity.

Reports on another former would indicate that on our early CAYC 1.6 CR engines, once one injector fails the others soon follow. Not good news but be prepared.

I never use the service position. It is easier to switch on the ignition, press single wipe then turn off the ignition when the arms are vertical.

Dig around on the internet and you will find people who used to offer reversion to original factory shipped software. Most have gone since the conclusion of the successful claim against VW but finding someone who used to do it is a starting point.

Can't answer your question but before you change the motor check that you have volts to the motor - my guess is that the supply is on the red/white cable. Common problem is broken wires in the rubber trunking between the door and the body.

The point I was making is all those functions worked on the old lock but had to be configured again with the new lock in place. Somehow the previous configuration had been lost. The garage could not answer "why?" either.

Was your new lock the exact same part number as the old one? I had my driver's door lock replaced by a Skoda garage using an extended car warranty. But some of its feature such as the light at the bottom of the door card and the puddle light in the mirror did not initially work and had to re-programed in. I suspect there may be some replacement door locks out there that are generic and must be programmed for your model/trim/features. My car (without folding mirror) reacts to a long press on the open/close buttons on the remote by lowering or raising all the windows. Perhaps another sign of re-programing required on your new lock or the controller in the drivers door. Someone with VCDS will be able to help. [See the forum pages on VCDS to find someone near you].

There could be common source for all your problems which should be checked first. Take a look in the boot on the passenger side. You may need to remove some trim dependant on your model variant, but find where a number of brown wires are connected to a metal stud(s) welded to the body side or floor. This is the earth/negative connection for the rear functions. Water in the boot or released when the rear washer supply pipe has frozen and come off/split (washer fluid low concentration) can cause corrosion of the stud/ring connectors/ wires. This should be checked first before exploring the many other possibilities,

This is page from Ross-Tech with suggestions of what to do. What is your engine type code letters (see code for engine on the sticker near spare wheel well)? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16785/P0401/001025

The 1.2L engine in the Mk 111 Fabia is a dry belt. There is only one bolt plus some clips to remove the top cover over the belt for belt inspection. I do not know of any VAG engine with other than the conventional dry belt.

Glad you fixed it. In essence what you did was use the immobiliser RFID chip from the old fob in the new fob. Well done.

Assuming the coolant level is normal when cold (see post immediately above) then excess coolant coming out when you release the cap (again when cold) can indicate that the coolant system is being pressurised by gasses from a failing head gasket. Another sign of this is if the cold coolant level shows coolant has been lost. Gasses in the coolant can also give rise to variations in dash temperature readings. Do not overfill the coolant bottle above the central seam or the expansion bottle can not do its job.

Yes, that is correct. But you need the key to work in the door lock in order to programme the RFID chip yourself and so avoid resorting to expensive programming directly into the ECU by a Skoda technician. I also asked the question about the door lock as you will not be able open the doors (because of a fob battery failure or radio interference) if the ignition key is unable to manually open the doors.

The RFID part is in the body (blade) part. However, after giving it some more thought, I must ask if the garage also changed the door lock. If the new key operates the door lock then either he has just replaced the blade with an original cut blade (or put a new blade in a new fob) or he changed the door lock as well. If the door lock does not work with the new key then the blade is different. If this is the case it presents a new problem as programming a new key yourself need to have a working key in the ignition and the new key used for locking and unlocking the driver's door lock with the blade. The only other alternative to have Skoda reprogramme the ECU for the new key. I suggest you still do the blade change as in my previous post and you post the result. Also report whether the blade works in the door lock.

It is likely that RFID chip in the fob is not recognised as J.R. said. It is easy to break the tiny chip when ungluing it so, as have the old fob, then it a simple job to swap out the old broken blade for the blade from the new fob.

The difference may be due to the fact that one quote is for the older 1.2 TSI 90 bhp and the other is a the newer 1.0 TSI. I will call my local Skoda garage and ask about the timing belt life on our 1.2 90bhp 2016 car.

Also check the earth cable from the battery negative to the body. Check too the cable itself at the battery end. On previous models it was found that black wire corrosion had been found running down the inside of the cable from the crimp connection.

Long shot is that it is the accelerator pedal position sensor in the "drive by wire" accelerator pedal. A proper diagnostics check with VCSD should find or eliminate this as a cause.

No. Climatronic systems work by mixing hot air with ambient air or cold air from the air-con. There are several sensors for the different locations,such as outside air, left side air vent out, right side air vent, footwell air temp and others. There is one for general cabin air temp which can be seen as a small raised "button" in the centre of the control panel. You need to have the diagnostics done by someone who has VCDS or similar software. Or use a competent garage, air conditioning specialist or perhaps an auto electrician.

There is a forum on here which is for Diagnostics and VCDS. Take a look and you will see a map of members willing to help. You will also see the colour codes for the locations in the forum. As a starter here is the map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=52.81119909612754%2C1.1402199614690733&z=8

Sounds like the brushes are worn down or, as on mine, the brushes are sticking in their holders. In both cases you can fix the problem yourself.