pikpilot

Check for broken or damaged wires inside the rubber tube between the front edge of the driver's door and body.

Immobiliser issues allow you to start the engine and lets it run for around 10 seconds, then cuts the engine.

Sounds like someone has changed the ignition lock at some time. 1) They have changed the ignition lock and given you two new ignition keys which they had synchronised with the immobiliser. 2) They ignored the fact that the driver door can only be opened with the key that fits the old ignition barrel. Ideally you need to fit a door lock barrel which accepts the same blade as the ignition key. It is usually the ignition key barrel that seizes not the door barrel

That is a very open question so please tell us if you want a petrol or diesel, and for the particular car you have found, the engine code. The engine code can be found on a label near the spare wheel. An example is shown below. in this example the engine code is CJZC.

You were on the right track when you replaced the MAF as P0101 relates to that. When did you last replace the engine air filter as ths is one potential cause? Here is the definitive list of causes and actions: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16485/P0101/000257

With so many functions no longer getting power, I would check the fuses in the fusebox next the air filter under the bonnet. The fuses there feed the smaller fuses inside the car.

When you replace the alarm I recommend you spend the money and get a genuine unit. There are many of secondhand alarm units on the 'bay market and there is some evidence that they may be the old units that people have taken out when fitting a new one! If you want to put in a new battery in the old alarm (as long as the old one has not corroded the printed circuit board) then take a look at the sticky alarm thread above - and also shown below. Your car is only one year older than mine and is the facelift version so ignore the older link I posted in the repair thread.

Also take off all relevant hoses and check for a flap of hose skin from the inside of the pipe which has blocked the hose.

What does the old oil smell like? Could it be the oil is being diluted by diesel fuel.

There are no relays in the doors but the click you hear is the motor trying to move the glass but held back by the torque limit control (also know known as the finger pinch limit when closing). You obviously have something in the mechanism that is putting too much load on the motor. This happens in the winter time here when ice sticks the glass to the frame. Check your battery as a weak battery will give a similar result. There is an override described in the handbook of your car. Press the up or down button as appropriate for 5+ seconds then briefly release and immediately try again as normal. If this does not work then there is a serious blockage to movement that must be investigated inside the door. One last thing you can try is have someone put the flats of their hands each side of the window glass [with the door open] and try to slide the glass down while you operate the switch.

Once the old solder was molton I added in some leaded solder. However, I know that this is not the complete answer as leaded solder tends to spread out more under pressure and vibration as had happened on one of my previous repairs.

I posted a few years back about a bulb failure in one of my DRL lights. It is not really a failure of the bulb but of the solder pip on the bulb being fretted away by vibration of the plastic under trim. It is the reason why the manufacture fits a non standard bulb with a thicker anti vibration element, type PY21W SLL. When you get a bulb failure for DRL it is unlikely that you need to change the bulb, only reflow the solder (and perhaps add a little more solder) on the pip. It will then last another 25+k miles. Thought you may like what my bulb looked like when I took it out to reflow the solder:-

Glad you're homing in on the source. Just a small warning: do not unplug the connectors under the seat unless you have disconnected the battery and left it a while. Some of those connections are for airbags/belt tensioners.

Have you double checked the part number of the new against the old? In some cases where you may expect part numbers to be the same for left and right drive cars, they in fact different.

Probably a plastic moulding rubbing against another part (which is probably another piece of plastic). Have you taken out any parts recently such as the glove box or the central console? It will be worse when you produce a high force between the parts such as when accelerating hard or decelerating/braking. When you do find where it is rubbing, glue a small piece of thin felt to one of the parts before re assembly.

Just checked my handbook (for a related similar vehicle) and it the exact opposite: w5w in the front and w3w in the rear.

Brown wire goes to an earth terminal in the Octavia and is probably the same in your Superb.

A single light is probably a poor connection but multiple lights in my opinion is not the cluster at fault but external connections or source. I think the water induced faults were actually below the dash panel, perhaps in the convenience unit. I never got to explore as I wanted a quick fix - drying out the car was my fix.

It could be water or high humidity in the car. I and others had this problem but in all cases there were other dash lights glowing as well as the indicator. Leaving the doors open on a warm sunny day was the cure. Alternatively there is a poor ground connection for the dash panel.

I bought mine in Halfords.

It should be possible to tell by decoding the build codes shown on a label near the spare wheel. A very basic model will have a single tone horn and code 8Y1 (two tone horn) will be missing. The code for remote locking is 8QL but in my translated decode list it is a poor translation as it says "8QL Key for locking system: Key for locking system with remote control" However, I did quick search for VW build codes and it said " 8QL Key for locking system with remote control" So my view is that if you have 8QL on your build list then you should have two remote keys. New keys from Skoda are expensive but you will probably have to use them to get the new keys programmed to the car. If remote central locking was fitted when new I don't think it is feasible to fit an aftermarket remote unit as you will lose other features such as down lights in the wing mirrors, lights in the lower doors, door mirror heating etc as these are controlled by your current locking system.

You should really get a comprehensive diagnostic and history report with something like VAG Com. My thoughts are turning to a sensor failure such as a crankshaft or camshaft sensor failure.

I assume when you say the tailgate does that open with central that you mean it doesn't unlock (these models don't have a tailgate lift feature) If I was you I would look at the part number on the old unit and see how much a new one would be before exploring too far. Only other check to do first is to see if any voltage appears on the plug contacts when locking/unlocking.

When did replace the turbo? The whining is caused by the bearings in the new turbo. When it happened on a previous car of mine it soon got so loud that pedestrians looked round to see if I was a police car! Glow plug blinking is an indication of a fault - probably not able to attain required boost. Fault codes will be stored so you can access them through the diagnostic port. What is the engine code? There is a label in the handbook and by the spare wheel, with the model build data.

There was a recent thread on the subject concerning rebuilding a BMM (?) engine following a timing belt/ chain breakage. Do a search as guidance. It is likely that you will have to replace bent conrods. Please put your model and engine code in your details, as this helps the helpers. The engine code can be found on two stickers - one in the handbook and one in the boot by the spare wheel.