pikpilot

If the car had the emissions fix done by Skoda, then EGR failure is a common occurrence, with some people having had 3 failures in two to four years. First replacement is usually done free under the Trust Building Measures within the two years limit after the fix.

Yes, that is fine as it will protect the cable. The radio will also have a last resort fuse or on circuit board thinned track to protect itself from internal faults causing a fire. Another situation that causes confusion is the "cigar lighter" power socket. There are two types of plug - one with direct connection to the centre pin and one with a fuse between the pin and the spring. With some of our cars having a supply fuse of 30A on the supply to the socket, it is clear that if you have a cable rated less this coming out of the plug then again there there is fire risk unless the fused version is used. We should only used the fused plug. The supplied fuse is usually 1A but you should fit a fuse to match the load cable rating or smaller if the load allows. While on my hobby horse, I am a appalled to see recommendations for high power audio bass amplifiers to be connected directly to the battery - without a fuse. I wonder how many car fires are caused by such cables rubbing through the cable insulation and the grommet as they pass through the firewall.

The method of cable fire protection, whether in a car, home, or industrial equipment, is to have a fuse rated to protect the cable (not the load) mounted in a protected area between the power source and the cable. If your in-line cable fuse is outside that protected then you have a part of the cable exposed to damage and unprotected. As JR said, you should connect the cable to a correctly rated fuse inside the fuse box that exists for this purpose near the battery. If you need to step down down to a smaller cable at some place (such a smaller flexible cable), then you must add another smaller fuse to protect that smaller cable from the effects of damage too. Sizing fuses and cables to provide protection from overheating and short circuits is not well understood by non electrical design engineers. One final point, do you really have to run the cable directly to the battery? There is a fuse panel on the right hand side of the dash. Pull off the cover and you will see spare positions for fuses - some of which are permanently live. 73 de G4***

Just a note to say the hatch and estate have different rear wiper assemblies so they are not interchangeable. Check against your part number or model if buying online.

Won't make much difference on a low speed commute. Improving drag only really works at higher speeds as it is cube law of drag against speed. I get my best mpg on roads with traffic at 50mph. I do that by anticipation, leaving a longer gap to the car in front, lifting early on the gas pedal, coasting to slow down (which cuts off the fuel supply entirely) and only braking at slow speed. Typically get 60-65 mpg out of town as long as I am not stationary for too long. So 620 miles per tank is believable on a long run at modest speed.

To make it clearer, it is the sensor at the pedal. The throttle is "drive by wire" from a potentiometer or hall effect sensor which detects pedal position.

There are different ways of putting it into calibration, dependent of model year and variant. If you have done it right you will hear the flap motors moving and see changes in air output.

Thanks for the comment. I will give it a try.

The symptom you describe could be due to low battery volts which in turn could be due to loose or corroded clamp at the battery. Check battery voltage when resting, after starting and when charging - how old is the battery? Power steering will reset after driving a short distance which includes turning the wheel.

Thanks for the information. I will use this when I see the workshop leader. I remember the need to activate the ABS through the diagnostic port on the Mk 1 Octavia.

Before running my last series of tests, I pressed reasonably hard on the brake pedal while pulling up the handbrake in order to reset the auto adjusters. It also gives almost no movement on the rear pads before they touch the discs. This gave me minimum "slack" pedal movement before the pads touch on the front discs and a consistent starting point. Having done what many people do and looked for answers on the net, the only answer that come close is a failing master cylinder. The Skoda garage looked at the possibility when trying to diagnose the fault but ruled it out because there is no easy way to confirm this as the cause and secondly they say they have never ever had to replace a faulty master cylinder. The car is going in soon for the MOT and service so that Is why I agreed to pay for a brake fluid change as a first step. (It was due anyway at the next service). Thanks MicMac for your suggestion. My thought is that it is at the front and if not the master cylinder the perhaps it is in the antilock brake system. (In the past it was found that air could be trapped in the antilock brake valves unless the exercised using software during brake bleeding. The garage ruled this out as they now use a VAG specialised brake bleeding machine which takes care of this. - Anyone know anything about this machine? Perhaps something like this https://garagewire.co.uk/news/company/sykes-pickavant/new-electric-brake-bleeder-at-sykes-pickavant/ )

Looks like you need to replace the lock in this door too, but before doing that and with the door open, pull back the rubber tube that covers the wires going from the door to the body. Look for damaged or broken wires - especially on wires that are being pulled tight in the loom.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry I do not fully understand your post so I have re-punctuated and spelling corrected it above. Please excuse me if I have got the wrong intention. If all the windows work from their on-door switches but not from the master switch then the mostly likely cause is a failed master switch and you are not the first to have this problem. You can buy a new one on-line for about £17 or get one from a scrap merchant. There are posts on here of how to remove and replace the switches/door pull. Do a search on here. Here is your starter for 10 which will need further searches:- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/317718-drivers-side-window-switches/?tab=comments#comment-3802439

Is the creaking inside or outside the car or both? If inside then look at the joints all the way from the steering shaft to the connection with the new rack. Could be that a joint or bolt is contacting plastic trim or similar.

The fuse diagram on the back of the dashboard end cover will be mostly right BUT it is a mirror image as it was created for LHD cars. I find the best way is to sit sideways on the drivers' seat holding the diagram above your right knee. Then glance between the diagram and the fuses while counting fuse locations from front to back. Headlight fuses may be in the fuse box by the battery.

Checked by myself and the garage, no sign of leaking brake fluid. This was my first thought too. Other possibility suggested on-line is the seals in the master cylinder were shot but no way to easily check without replacing it. Just got the car back from having the brake fluid changed. I notice now there is less movement on the pedal before it hardens up and starts to work. On heavy braking (car stationary) there is less sink but still the pedal falls below the level of the accelerator so I still have the engine fighting the brakes. Perhaps I need narrower shoes and feet!!

Brake fluid changed early December 2019. I have asked them to do another brake fluid change today. It is serviced by trusted local Skoda garage. Their only recommendation was to change the front disks and pads "as there is a lot of rust on the outer part the disks". I said no for now as the rust is outside the swept area of the pads. They checked the pads and disks as 20% worn in Dec 20. Due to lock down the car has only done 1600 miles since then. I see from the last brake fluid change invoice that they only added 1litre of fluid. Sounds a bit small? They have a special VAG machine for doing brake fluid changes.

My brakes work fine in normal town and country driving, easily able to stop even with harsh braking. With heavy sustained braking, the pedal moves beyond normal limits so much that my foot is pressing on the accelerator and brake pedals simultaneously. Total travel on the brake pedal is more than 50%. Anyone have any thoughts? Edit: I should have added that when I try pressing hard on the brake pedal with the car stationary and engine running, the pedal gradually moves down under constant brake pressure.

Mine cleared itself by just opening all the windows to allow it dry out so it is unlikely to be be your cause. On mine it also brought up many other warnings at the same time

Yes I did get the wrong way round. No excuses apart from memory and long time since I had a 1.9L. However, it is till worth ruling out the battery. The only time I have had the steering wheel light on was 1) end of life battery and 2) moisture on the wiring terminals of the convenience/comfort module. The second case can be ruled out here.

PD engine will not start (inhibited) if the cranking revs are too low. This requirement is removed for a hot start. The fact that you have the steering warning light up indicates that the battery voltage is too low. Easiest way to check your battery is to get someone to give you a jump start from their car battery with their engine running. If it starts, replace your battery.

I was expecting to see a sticker with 23R7 written on it which is for new ECU software plus an addition air flow straighter on the 1.6 CR engine (CAYC). A more positive way is to ask Skoda using their emissions check page. Enter your VIN in the box: http://skoda-recallactions.skoda-auto.com/en?s=D&cd=1&_gl=1*wm1nkt*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE2MzEzNTYwMTguQ2p3S0NBandwTU9JQmhCQUVpd0F5NU02WUgzUDUtbjlfazNobGlNRzdOWU1oZS1YRjBzcnVxTzRGQWJkNGJ4NmY5ZXlGQXFoSXNWWXdob0NORjBRQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE2MzEzNTYwMTguQ2p3S0NBandwTU9JQmhCQUVpd0F5NU02WUgzUDUtbjlfazNobGlNRzdOWU1oZS1YRjBzcnVxTzRGQWJkNGJ4NmY5ZXlGQXFoSXNWWXdob0NORjBRQXZEX0J3RQ..*GA4_ga*NTkxNWJiYmYtOTdkOS00NmYzLWFhYzEtNTFkOWZiMTEzYzBl*GA4_ga_MS0YW0TWZD*MTYzMTU3MDA5NC45LjAuMTYzMTU3MDA5NS42MA..&_ga=2.198624554.400689272.1631570095-893573748.1616681837&_gac=1.128715390.1631356018.CjwKCAjwpMOIBhBAEiwAy5M6YH3P5-n9_k3hliMG7NYMhe-XF0sruqO4FAbd4bx6f9eyFAqhIsVYwhoCNF0QAvD_BwE

Check it has NOT had the emissions fix. If there an extra sticker near the wheel well in the boot then it likely has.

Check that the boot open light appears on the display. If not, then the boot lock is not giving a boot open signal and the locking system will act as you described.

Glad you took my advice and it is now working.