pikpilot

The facelift version of your car (you don't say the age of your car) has DRLs adjacent to the fog lamps in the Elegance trim. My 2012 car had these fitted but not activated when supplied. Your app will not be able to activated the DRLs. You need something like Carista to make software changes. This is what I used to activate my DRLs and then used the procedure shown in the handbook to switch them on. Note that confusingly the handbook calls switch on "activation"! If you do not have DRLs fitted you may be able to use the fog lights but check the list in the Carista website. If you try a work around, remember that by law DRLs must be OFF when the headlights are on.

Perhaps try flushing the cooling system and replace with new coolant. Surprised the debris is that colour. Perhaps someone put in the wrong coolant at sometime. VAG cars are fussy about only using VAG coolant.

As in the previous post, a sticky vane control will give the symptoms described and be resettable by turning the ignition off and on. Often the warning light does not come on. You should get the failure codes read as it is equally likely to be the EGR valve clogged up with soot. You can do it yourself if you buy an ELM 327 reader that plugs into the diagnostic port, and link to a suitable app for Android or iOS. Choose a unit that connects via wifi or Bluetooth to suit your phone/laptop/computer etc.

Not sure this would work. If the supply to the alarm is removed then it will run on it's internal battery. If the battery voltage gets too low the alarm intermittently chirps as a warning. How long it takes will depend on how old the battery is and it's condition. Same applies to disconnecting the main battery.

Do you hear the fuel pump in the tank when you switch on the ignition (before cranking) first thing in the morning. If you do hear it then wait until it stops before cranking.

The glow light is a general warning that there is a fault code to be read. It is unlikely that glow plugs were the cause. Limp mode is often associated with turbo control issues or fuelling. Get a code reading from another reader, It would be helpful to other members if you could put the engine details and car details in the post or better still fill in the Location and Model on your membership page - see mine.

Since drying it out last year and also using the car more often, my problem has not returned. You just need to find a dry sunny day. I suspect the problem is not moisture in the cluster but across terminals/connectors on the control unit beneath the dash.

UK is metric too. Horsepower is an old unit and I only quoted it as you used in the 1st line of the first post. Metric unit of power is the kW. Even my gas bill is now priced in kWh. PS is a non standard unit left over from the past. It is a German translation of horsepower (pferdestarke) but 1.4% bigger than a horsepower. I am pleased to see that VAG car handbooks quote engine power in kW, although they also show HP or PS as the general public only recognise traditional units for car engine power.

746 Watts is 1 horsepower so 125kW divided by 0.746 is 167.56 horsepower or 169.9 PS [PS is the metric horsepower used by car manufacturers.] So 125kw on the fuel filler flap is the same as the 170 PS they quote in sales literature. Need to stick to one set of units and not be confused by PS. It's horses for courses

Have you tested the motor you took out? There is the possibility that the it is not the motor but the control signal. I don't know about the '08 model but probably the same as the facelift models where the motor is controlled by CanBus. Check for broken wires in the wiring tube that takes the wires from the hatch to the body.

My 2012 Elegance model does not have the black line on the mirror. I checked the build codes of my car and it has "5SJ Left exterior mirror: LRight exterior mirror: Right exterior mirror: aspherical " and "6XD Exterior mirror setting: Exterior mirrors: electrically adjustable/heated" No mention of auto dimming. I guess that must be a difference between model years. I have never found a need for auto dimming on the external mirrors so perhaps there is difference in the glass tint or the aspherical glass parameters between these model years.

The side mirrors are not auto dimming but have some tinting. Since you also look at the mirrors through the tinted side windows, plus the effect of curvature of the mirror glass, I have never felt that they need to be electrically auto dimmed as well. Perhaps you have a clear replacement mirror on the near side? Perhaps even a flat glass?

It really is a pain to release the lamp assembly. I tried all the tips from this forum unsuccessfully. In the end I put the wheels on full opposite lock (right lock for left hand bulb), removed a few of the wheel arch cover fixing screws at the front and I could then get my hand behind on to the lamp. I have a post on here showing pictures. Next time my car was in for service I asked them to remove the cover and free it up before replacing it. Note that the DRL bulb is not a standard bulb but one that resists the vibrations in this location that can break the filament. You need a PY21W SLL long life bulb.

I know it is sometimes difficult to get Skoda to honour its body warranty. But have you tried? Seems to be an easy case and Skoda should supply a new painted bonnet. Unless of course yours is too old to still have the warranty.

I had the same symptoms and it was the brushes sticking in the brush holders. The pressure from the brush springs reduces as the brushes move down the holders with brush wear. It gets a to point where the brush spring cannot overcome the stickiness of the brushes in the holders. Clean everything and scrape the sides of the brushes. Check they can move freely.

Thank you for photos etc. I am sure it will prove useful. Here is a link to the same issue on the H09 version in case future searchers need it:-

You will not see any voltage at the bulb or its connection if the automatic test on start up (or soon after) has detected a bulb/connection failure. The supply is removed until the fault is corrected Have you tried a new bulb?

Check for broken wires in the wiring snake between the body and the hatch. From memory the boot light display on the dash is obtained via CanBus. On a 2010 vehicle the same signal is used by the Convenience Module to supply12V to the boot lights. Also check for corrosion on the earth stud and its' wires on the left hand side of the boot behind the trim.

The model he has uses engine CAYC or a variant (check code on sticker in the boot) which is a common rail unit. There is no glow plug in the dpf. Some early versions had frequent failures of injectors but by 2012 there were superseded by an alterative make. If the car has had the notorious emissions fix, then injector failure is the second most likely failure after EGR failure. If the emission "fix" has been applied there will be small separate sticker in the boot showing 23R7, usually hand written.

Following on from my reply above, I found the information from others with the same issue. I only needed to replace the LED’s that illuminated the Rev and Speed needles. I bought these from Rapid Electronics in Colchester: Part Number: 55-2890 Spec: 3528 smd LED 6500K 6.5lm 120deg 30mA 3.1V Once everything was put back together, the new LED’s are about 20% brighter then the old ones and not quite as white. However, because I replaced all the LED’s for the Rev and Speed needles, this difference is not as noticeable. You may be better off getting 5.5lm and 7000K led’s." Others have said that a better colour match could be made with 5000K as people who had used 6500K leds reported a touch of blue. The how to do it pdf is in the attachment Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1.pdf

There are threads on here (with photos) showing how to replace the LEDs. More importantly for you there are posts in the threads discussing the colour match and advising which colour temp (K) to buy.

Hi MicMac, I didn't mention this as my car did not come with this feature and assumed others without a multi functional display didn't either. Later, I activated this feature with the Carista App.

Sorry to disappoint but the rear wiper and washer can be switched on and off at any time, whether raining or not and not related to the rain sensor. I had an intermittent rear wiper caused by the brushes in the motor sticking in their holders. As the brushes wear down, the end of the brush spring gets "unwound" and exerts less pressure. Fine in normal circumstances but not if the brush is also sticking in the holder.

Thanks for that. I have corrected my handbook.

Looking at the DRL bulbs, they have a much thicker coiled filament than normal which suggest they are like anti vibration bulbs as used in industrial vehicles The driver's handbook for a Facelift model says it is a PY21W. The Y indicates an offset pin. They are available in both white and amber but the white is harder to find. People wrongly guess that Y means yellow. Need to check but I think the alternative marking may be 581 S. Try comparing the old bulb filament size with a new bulb. If you can't get the cover off then my trick is is put the wheels on full lock then remove the 2 or 3 lowest front wheel arch liner clips. You can then get your hand and arm behind the wheel arch liner to get to the lamp.