pikpilot

I know it is sometimes difficult to get Skoda to honour its body warranty. But have you tried? Seems to be an easy case and Skoda should supply a new painted bonnet. Unless of course yours is too old to still have the warranty.

I had the same symptoms and it was the brushes sticking in the brush holders. The pressure from the brush springs reduces as the brushes move down the holders with brush wear. It gets a to point where the brush spring cannot overcome the stickiness of the brushes in the holders. Clean everything and scrape the sides of the brushes. Check they can move freely.

Thank you for photos etc. I am sure it will prove useful. Here is a link to the same issue on the H09 version in case future searchers need it:-

You will not see any voltage at the bulb or its connection if the automatic test on start up (or soon after) has detected a bulb/connection failure. The supply is removed until the fault is corrected Have you tried a new bulb?

Check for broken wires in the wiring snake between the body and the hatch. From memory the boot light display on the dash is obtained via CanBus. On a 2010 vehicle the same signal is used by the Convenience Module to supply12V to the boot lights. Also check for corrosion on the earth stud and its' wires on the left hand side of the boot behind the trim.

The model he has uses engine CAYC or a variant (check code on sticker in the boot) which is a common rail unit. There is no glow plug in the dpf. Some early versions had frequent failures of injectors but by 2012 there were superseded by an alterative make. If the car has had the notorious emissions fix, then injector failure is the second most likely failure after EGR failure. If the emission "fix" has been applied there will be small separate sticker in the boot showing 23R7, usually hand written.

Following on from my reply above, I found the information from others with the same issue. I only needed to replace the LED’s that illuminated the Rev and Speed needles. I bought these from Rapid Electronics in Colchester: Part Number: 55-2890 Spec: 3528 smd LED 6500K 6.5lm 120deg 30mA 3.1V Once everything was put back together, the new LED’s are about 20% brighter then the old ones and not quite as white. However, because I replaced all the LED’s for the Rev and Speed needles, this difference is not as noticeable. You may be better off getting 5.5lm and 7000K led’s." Others have said that a better colour match could be made with 5000K as people who had used 6500K leds reported a touch of blue. The how to do it pdf is in the attachment Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1.pdf

There are threads on here (with photos) showing how to replace the LEDs. More importantly for you there are posts in the threads discussing the colour match and advising which colour temp (K) to buy.

Hi MicMac, I didn't mention this as my car did not come with this feature and assumed others without a multi functional display didn't either. Later, I activated this feature with the Carista App.

Sorry to disappoint but the rear wiper and washer can be switched on and off at any time, whether raining or not and not related to the rain sensor. I had an intermittent rear wiper caused by the brushes in the motor sticking in their holders. As the brushes wear down, the end of the brush spring gets "unwound" and exerts less pressure. Fine in normal circumstances but not if the brush is also sticking in the holder.

Thanks for that. I have corrected my handbook.

Looking at the DRL bulbs, they have a much thicker coiled filament than normal which suggest they are like anti vibration bulbs as used in industrial vehicles The driver's handbook for a Facelift model says it is a PY21W. The Y indicates an offset pin. They are available in both white and amber but the white is harder to find. People wrongly guess that Y means yellow. Need to check but I think the alternative marking may be 581 S. Try comparing the old bulb filament size with a new bulb. If you can't get the cover off then my trick is is put the wheels on full lock then remove the 2 or 3 lowest front wheel arch liner clips. You can then get your hand and arm behind the wheel arch liner to get to the lamp.

A quick search on YT brought up the video below described as Octavia 2 but in fact is the almost identical Golf Wagon. It gives you an idea of what to do. A pair of long nosed pliers might make it easier to compress and push out the central red clip.

The third brake light is an array of LEDs inside the housing. There are posts on here (with photos) showing how to replace the old light with new. Do a search. Basically you have unclip the boot lid trim and the rubber pull, remove the wiring connector and undo one or more nuts. The difficult part is replacing the trim. From memory there is also a post on here where someone opened up the old unit and replaced failed LEDS but it is not for the in experienced. I have never checked whether the brake light goes off with the boot lid open but it is possible as the switch in the lock does other things such as signalling electronically the the boot is open and electronically turning on the boot lights.

I leave my mirror heating on all the time. From my experience (over 15 years of VAG cars) the heater is a positive temperature sensitive (ptc) plastic. On the coldest days the glass gets very warm and quickly clears any ice. In the summer the heater assumes high resistance and does nothing. I find that it clears water droplets within a few minutes in typical wet weather days in Autumn and Spring. Try leaving yours on. and also check the temperature of the glass a few minutes after switching on the ignition to check it is actually working.

You don't say whether yours is petrol is diesel. Either way it looks like the Irish pricing is considerable lower than the UK. In the UK there is a standard price list for all Skoda dealers to adhere to, as shown in the link. My 2012 1.6 TDi CR has a price of £600 to just change the timing belt and water pump! I chose to use a VAG specialist to cut the the by over £100 but not as cheap as yours. They only used VAG parts. Skoda price list: https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price

If you get the fix done then you will soon see that one free EGR is small compensation for other negatives. Skoda have taken down their VIN checker where you could check if they had applied the fix. It is replaced by three other items: https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/ea189 In several places they say the fix is optional, not mandatory and not a recall. This is different to the stand they were taking when they were sending out letters or getting the fix applied during service work without asking. Read their comments on the legal cases against them in the third section. Next in court in March next year. I would agree that VAG car steering is not as light as some cars. The Xantia I had was very light at parking speed (like American cars with one finger steering) but only slightly lighter to VAG cars when moving.

There is a long shot problem which can cause reduced voltages on some of the feeds from the battery. I have not seen this myself but there are posts on here about the issue. So lets put 2 and 2 together and make a wild guess. Next to the battery there is the Engine Bay Fuse box. People have found corrosion due to water on the contacts into which fuses are plugged. Also, having taken the printed circuit off, they found corrosion on the back. Any poor contact here due to corrosion will drop the voltage seen by downstream items such as the BCM. Before removing this board you MUST disconnect the battery as a short here is directly across the battery and becomes a fire risk. Accidently shorting the battery supply on this board with a spanner or screwdriver could see you welding it in place. As I say it is a long shot. But the first step is to make a close visual look of the smaller fuses on the board for signs of corrosion or overheating. You don't need to disconnect the battery to use your eyes.

Well done. I try to avoid the smaller SMD parts even with a small iron bit and smallest tweezers. I passed the instructions to friend of mine with a led display problem on his Yeti. He changed every led, but he is a professional electronics engineer with all the tools for SMD work. He gets the job if mine fails!

The last letter is the revision letter so use the same letter or later. The biggest difference is between hatch and estate. The hatch has the washer feed going through the wiper shaft and the estate does not as it has washer jet build into the high level brake light. When mine failed on my facelift estate, it was replaced with part 1Z9 955 711 B; no reference to ZA3.

Certainly sounds like friction giving it a stick-slip movement. Check the part around the bottom of the needle is not pushed down too far (my best guess) and also check the end of the needle is not touching anywhere. Unlikely to have damaged the motors unless the shafts has been moved inwards.

As I said above, 180k kms is what is quoted in my service book for the similar 2 litre CR engines but in the UK, VAG have over-ruled that to 5 years for the first change and every 4 years thereafter. Looks like VAG Switzerland have not done that. When you take your car into a VAG (i.e. Skoda) garage they will connect the car to the VAG remote computer system. They can then see previous history and work done, look for software updates etc. New work is then recorded on the system before you get the car back. Some non VAG garages are also allowed access as I discovered when my timing belt was replaced by an independent garage specialising in VAG vehicles. But in the UK, VAG garages are sometimes reluctant to print out a service history unless there is a good reason such as trying to sell a car which has no service book. You just have to twist their arm. Perhaps they could do it from the VIN number as you suggest. It is important that you tell the garage that you do NOT want the emissions update to be applied to your car at each and every occasion they get their hands on your car.

As your country is colder and mountainous compared to the UK, the requirements for servicing and parts replacements are likely to be different. You could ask a local VAG (Volkswagen or Audi or SEAT or Skoda) dealer what they recommend for timing belt replacement interval on the 1.6 litre TDI CR engine (engine code CAYC). It is unlikely the previous belt failed in service as that would destroy the engine, or at least require replacement valves and pistons. Could be that someone was being cautious or, like mine, the engine had a coolant pump failure that also requires the belt to be replaced. A Skoda dealer could give you a history print out from the Skoda system

What country are you in?

I have the same engine. Unless the car is heavily used, you will probably find you hit the time limit first. This limit is 5 years for the first change and every 4 years thereafter. But, that is for UK use. If you buy and use a car outside the UK (such as the EU) you will find the recommendation in time and kms to be much longer. [The service book supplied with my car when new says the timing belt and tensioner should be replaced every 180,000 kms on TDi CR engines with engine codes CEGA, CBDB and CBBB. No mention of the 1.6 litre CAYC. Perhaps your service book is later than mine, showing timing belt replacement at only 60K Kms. Does it mention engine code CAYC?] There are other forums (and other threads on here) where the disparity between UK and EU recommendations is discussed. VAG UK stick by their recommendation saying that it is to suit UK conditions of use. Cynics say it is to give their dealers a source of income. VAG dealer price for the change recently went to £600. Last month I had the belt changed for the second time by an independent VAG specialist for £120 less. It should have been next year but the first belt change was early when the water pump failed and coolant soaked the timing belt. Both prices include a water pump change as this is a weak point.