pikpilot

Total angle swept is also pre-set by the electronics in the wiper motor in the combi, so may be the same on the hatch. If the replacement wiper motor is not the same part as previous, you may have your answer.

The above link shows the net has just loops in the corners. My 2012 car also has fast connect/disconnect fasters in the loops which allow you take the net in and out easily. Additionally it has plastic covers/connectors which fit onto the metal body loops with a quarter turn. Makes it still faster and easier to attach the net. Same system used on the Mk 1 Octavia except the plastic pieces over the body loop are chromed metal. I use the Mk1 and Mk2 net systems interchangeably as both fit the mk2. You may be lucky to find all the parts at a breaker or on line auction site.

Doesn't fix the problem but have you read this thread in the stickies above. Gives you info from 9 years ago until now.

My car was fitted with towing gear as an extra by the supplying dealer. It has a 13 way socket and removable tow hook but the electrics are connected through a relay similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322395656405?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=7101533165274578&mkcid=2&itemid=322395656405&targetid=4585169652812017&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=412354547&mkgroupid=1305120599331881&rlsatarget=pla-4585169652812017&abcId=9300541&merchantid=87779&msclkid=dfd33beb0e0415ee5ef9590496662df5 A similar relay and a 7 way towing electrics socket is all you need. I would leave fitting it to a local auto electrician or garage as the rear bumper may have to be removed and cut to suit your choice of towbar. For the bike carrier your choice is more limited due to the weight of an electric bike, even if you carry the battery in the car. Suitable ebike carriers to take two bikes cost around £200+ second hand on a well known auction site but don't come up very often. I have had my large pedelec for over 10 years and can get it in the rear of my Octavia 2 estate once I have removed the front wheel of the bike but I also have to lay down the rear seats thus limiting it to driver and one passenger.

I use an app called VAG DPF which is available for Android and Apple phones and works with Bluetooth ELM327 diagnostic port adaptors. It will show you the weight of oil ash in the dpf. The weight number in grams approximates to percentage full of ash in the dpf. It does a lot more, including showing how close you are to the next regeneration (soot mass). If you think your dpf is near end of life, an app such as this (and there are others) will confirm if it is true.

You can charge a battery to max volts but it fails when you take a high current from it. Does your battery tester put a load on the battery when testing? I suspect the battery is the problem. One easy test is to put another battery in parallel with it like you would if jump starting.

In a 2011 car I would be tempted to buy a salvaged unit on ebay such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363899740358?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=363899740358&targetid=293946777986&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045725&poi=&campaignid=17116423086&mkgroupid=134652533165&rlsatarget=pla-293946777986&abcId=9300856&merchantid=7261354&gclid=CjwKCAjw_b6WBhAQEiwAp4HyIDk5y2YTzI6oEW3RFZNW6XW0wbWkiQASNZKFbz6Emhdo9naGB8evIxoCcmoQAvD_BwE Spend your savings on getting a garage to turn off the warning and , if necessary, make software changes to adapt the replacement sensor.

According to the information below, this code is used for airbag sensors on both sides of the car; identification of which side is by the use of VCDS software. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01639#Possible_Symptoms There is a helpful video for the VW Golf showing how to find and change the sensor but note that VCDS is required to cancel the warning and possibly to complete the installation. You can get the part number from the old sensor.

Yes, just move it a fuse fed by a switched supply.

From what I remember on the estate, it is just a matter of removing the rubber pull-down strap then unclipping the trim all the way round. The hard part is clipping it back into place. Perhaps others on here can provide a guide or a video?

Glad you have found a possible cause for a constant discharge. There are several fuses in the switched supply in the fusebox at the end of the dashboard. Check the fuse listing in the car manual for likely candidates for tapping into. You can use a piggy back additional fuse and holder such as the one below. Just make sure you buy one of the same physical size as the fuse you want to piggy back onto. Cost is less than £2 on the bay and over £5 in a well known motoring and cycling store. Routing the wiring behind the trim should not be problem and there is a ground connection stud in the fusebox.

Exercise your warranty if you can. Your battery has lost capacity due to having short journeys and previously standing idle. See my post of yesterday in the thread below, and note warranty conditions now being used by some. Octavia MK2 Owners, worth a read

The battery on my car failed in April only a few days after the 4 year warranty expired. The new well known German make of battery now fitted has a 5 year warranty but interestingly there is a clause in the warranty that says the car must be driven a minimum of 2000 miles per year and pro rata. It says this is to avoid sulfation (their spelling!). Due to Covid etc I had not done the minimum miles pro rata as my driving was in very short journeys most weeks with the occasional long journey that totalled around 2k miles per year. So that is probably what killed off the battery. [Incidentally, when mine failed it dropped down to zero volts in just two days. Putting another battery in parallel allowed the car to be re-started but when this was disconnected the engine immediately stopped. The battery was effectively open circuit and not taking any charge.] On the original factory fitted battery, I had had spurious dashboard lights like yours and was the reason I changed the battery four years ago.

Early versions of our engines (CAYC) had injector problems and later ones used a more reliable different make. Injectors can still fail at high mileage. As the fault code said, injector 4 is the culprit or its associated wiring. Here is a video showing how to do the tests and replace the injector. It was made using a different car make but the process is basically the same. As you say you are not handy with a multimeter I suggest you use a trusted garage.

Which part did you change? What was the fault code number? What coding has been done? What was it you changed again?

Vocals carry most of their information at the higher frequencies. I have a partial loss of hearing at high frequencies so had difficulty in understanding sung words on the car Bolero radio. The solution was easy. Go into tone setting on the radio and move the treble slider more to the right. Job done. Are your tone settings still set at the middle positions?

They probably decided that course of action based on previously stored fault codes.

I had something like that a few years when the can bus to the radio was working in single wire mode. Removing and then reapplying the power would reset the radio for months. I can't tell you how to fix it as the garage spotted the single wire mode and fixed it for free whilst looking at another problem. A fault code is delivered when in single wire mode.

He is wrong. The way you can tell it is an immobiliser problem is that the car starts and runs for several seconds before the immobiliser stops the engine.

As you have a new key then it may not have been synchronised to the immobiliser or maybe it is a manual only key without the chip inside. Also, central locking will not work remotely unless the key is synchronised. This is the most likely cause unless you know that the key has operated before without the immobiliser issue.

I would see what fault codes you have first and post them on here. Failure of the clutch pedal switch will also give the same symptoms.

George, I was talking about cars 10 years or more years ago. The construction rules may have changed since then, especially as digital dashboards can offer more customer choice such as perhaps being able to choose the display to match the country you are in.

The EU requires cars to show speed in both kms/hr AND mph. VAG chose to only put of these (country specific) on the main speed ring and to show the alternative speed digitally (MPH in your case) on the bottom of the display as in your photos. If your main speed ring is in kph then it is working correctly. Using VAGcom it is possible to change the digital display to mpg from l/h and mph to kmh etc. Legally, if you change anything, you must still have both mph and kph simultaneous available, as you do at present. Some people make these changes on cars from the Irish market without meeting the requirement of dual speed display or on UK cars to show digitally mph instead of kmh. But who is going to check if it complies?

For future reference for people finding this thread, the only other beeper is the reversing distance warning located at the bottom off the B pillar behind the trim.

I don't know if the VRS uses the same type of gear knob but mine (facelift) allows you to just replace the chromed plastic part so you don't need to take off the leather boot. I fitted a new 5 speed one very easily; just lever up the old top and replace. The supplier in the Czech Republic initially sent me a 6 speed top. If you can use it then send me a message through Briskoda. The part number is 5LO 798 117. https://www.drive2.ru/l/500901764560584868/