pikpilot

Note that on some models the action described by Tilt will also change the car from variable to fixed service and can only be changed back by Skoda and perhaps by VCDS or similar. In the handbook for my facelift model it states: "Resetting Service Interval Display It is only possible to reset the Service Interval Display, if a service message or at least a pre-warning is shown in the instrument cluster display." Resetting is the last menu action provided by the stalk/knob inside the speedo If you have the optional multi function display, you can use that.

A quick search on line gives: Engine Control Unit Incorrectly Coded P0610 Perhaps the ECU is inhibiting starting? Find the nearest member to you who is offering to check using VCDS [see map in VCDS section of Briskoda]

The self locking happens if the locking system believes that you have unlocked the car but not opened a door. Many of us have had this problem. Caused by a microswitch in a lock not operating, or a broken wire from the door to the car body (often in the flexible trunk from the drivers door to the body). Easily checked by looking for the door open icon on the display every time you open a door. If not there, it will self lock again. Can be intermittent (such as a broken wire).

Reading the comments below the video, the fix is to stop (by tape?) the air blowing through the gap between the bonnet and the upper chrome part of the radiator intake around the centre of the car. Have you tried that fix?

Yes, I mean the third, high, LED brake light assembly.

That is typical of poor connections. It brings up a fault code but when you check it out it reads ok. You should look for for corroded or loose connections in all the wiring for the high level brake light - for example in the rubber trunking to the hatch and any connectors behind the trim rear side panels of the car. If that fails, then take off the rear brake light and check for poor solder joints in the unit.

I have a 1.6TD 105 hp; now 10 years old but 7 years since I bought it. The main thing to worry about is the dieselgate "fix". Avoid any with the fix (called a Service Action by Skoda) as you will be plagued by EGR and injector problems. A sticker in the boot showing 23R6 confirms this action has been carried out. I avoided the fix despite much pressure by Skoda. Without the fix the engine is a delight. The gearing is such that you need to change out of 1st gear very early (recommended within three car lengths) but from then on the torque is high and pulls well. One interesting aspect is that it learns your style of driving. When I first got the car i found it best to leave the gear changes until it was about 1700 rpm in the next higher gear. Now, with most of my driving around town, I can pull away easily from 1200 rpm with moderate torque. Fuel consumption is 55mpg in town and 60+ on long trips. Best long journey consumption was over 70 mpg using the 50mph and less roads of East Anglia. I am still on the original injectors and EGR. My wife has a Fabia with the 1.2 l, 90bhp engine and that also performs well in that car.

As I said in earlier posts on this thread, the numbers are in hexadecimal (the last h on the right hand display). If you don't how to convert hex to decimal, use a scientific calculator or an on line converter. Then look up the decimal fault code on line. 4fa (in hex) is 1274 in decimal This is the decode of the fault code:- 01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71): Faulty Possible Causes Wiring/Connectors from/to Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) faulty Positioning Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) blocked Positioning Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) faulty Possible Solutions Check Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) See Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) Perform Output Test Perform Basic Setting Check/Repair Wiring and Connectors

You should run a cable directly from the battery but instead use one of the spare fuse locations in the battery fusebox near the battery. You should also not do as you did on the TT as the short cable from the busbar to your next fuse is unprotected against shorts. Contrary to popular belief, fuses are for protection of the cables against overload and resultant fire.

It all depends on what you want to. The fuses are grouped and supplied by rear busbars in some cases. The main choices are 1) how much current do you want to take? 2) Do you want it to be live only when the ignition is on? or 3) to be live all the time. If the later (say for a camera) fuse 24 is the 25A supply to the cigarette lighter/12V supply sockets. The fuse you place in the piggy back fuseholder must be no larger than that needed to protect the secondary cable from fire under short circuit conditions. Use the smallest fuse you can and it must be less than the current rating of the connecting wire/cable. You can wire into the back of the fuse holder using a cable of the the correct current rating and with the correct crimped on connector for the fuse. Unless you are experienced in electrical wiring and regulations, I suggest you use the piggy back type fuseholder and a fuse size as discussed above. Choose a fuse location to piggy back onto by selecting one that is rated slightly greater than the sum of the existing load and the extra current. Most things we add to our cars don't take as must current as their paperwork says and you can piggy back on a 5A or 10A fuse without it blowing with the additional load. If you look in the car handbook where it shows fuse rating for optional extras you do not have. You can add a fuse to your piggy back up to the rating shown as the normal fuse in that empty fuse location. But make sure that your on-going wire/cable is capable of carrying that current or down-size the fuse to the cable current rating.

There is the rub. If it looks the same as '711 and has the same fixing arrangement it does not mean it is truly compatible. Ask them why they removed the label. Ask them where their compatibility list came from. My instinct says that because it is the same size and shape they have guessed it is compatible.

Here is a photo of one of my cargo nets showing the 90 deg twist on and off fasteners that take the plastic clips shown in the post above. It is well worth trying to find some as the plastic clips are hard to remove from the metal body loops in the side wells. The black one is made of plastic and came with with my Mk2 and the chromed metal one came with my Mk 1 Octavia.

First check the earth connection for the lights in the boot.

Total angle swept is also pre-set by the electronics in the wiper motor in the combi, so may be the same on the hatch. If the replacement wiper motor is not the same part as previous, you may have your answer.

The above link shows the net has just loops in the corners. My 2012 car also has fast connect/disconnect fasters in the loops which allow you take the net in and out easily. Additionally it has plastic covers/connectors which fit onto the metal body loops with a quarter turn. Makes it still faster and easier to attach the net. Same system used on the Mk 1 Octavia except the plastic pieces over the body loop are chromed metal. I use the Mk1 and Mk2 net systems interchangeably as both fit the mk2. You may be lucky to find all the parts at a breaker or on line auction site.

Doesn't fix the problem but have you read this thread in the stickies above. Gives you info from 9 years ago until now.

My car was fitted with towing gear as an extra by the supplying dealer. It has a 13 way socket and removable tow hook but the electrics are connected through a relay similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322395656405?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=7101533165274578&mkcid=2&itemid=322395656405&targetid=4585169652812017&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=412354547&mkgroupid=1305120599331881&rlsatarget=pla-4585169652812017&abcId=9300541&merchantid=87779&msclkid=dfd33beb0e0415ee5ef9590496662df5 A similar relay and a 7 way towing electrics socket is all you need. I would leave fitting it to a local auto electrician or garage as the rear bumper may have to be removed and cut to suit your choice of towbar. For the bike carrier your choice is more limited due to the weight of an electric bike, even if you carry the battery in the car. Suitable ebike carriers to take two bikes cost around £200+ second hand on a well known auction site but don't come up very often. I have had my large pedelec for over 10 years and can get it in the rear of my Octavia 2 estate once I have removed the front wheel of the bike but I also have to lay down the rear seats thus limiting it to driver and one passenger.

I use an app called VAG DPF which is available for Android and Apple phones and works with Bluetooth ELM327 diagnostic port adaptors. It will show you the weight of oil ash in the dpf. The weight number in grams approximates to percentage full of ash in the dpf. It does a lot more, including showing how close you are to the next regeneration (soot mass). If you think your dpf is near end of life, an app such as this (and there are others) will confirm if it is true.

You can charge a battery to max volts but it fails when you take a high current from it. Does your battery tester put a load on the battery when testing? I suspect the battery is the problem. One easy test is to put another battery in parallel with it like you would if jump starting.

In a 2011 car I would be tempted to buy a salvaged unit on ebay such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363899740358?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=363899740358&targetid=293946777986&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045725&poi=&campaignid=17116423086&mkgroupid=134652533165&rlsatarget=pla-293946777986&abcId=9300856&merchantid=7261354&gclid=CjwKCAjw_b6WBhAQEiwAp4HyIDk5y2YTzI6oEW3RFZNW6XW0wbWkiQASNZKFbz6Emhdo9naGB8evIxoCcmoQAvD_BwE Spend your savings on getting a garage to turn off the warning and , if necessary, make software changes to adapt the replacement sensor.

According to the information below, this code is used for airbag sensors on both sides of the car; identification of which side is by the use of VCDS software. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01639#Possible_Symptoms There is a helpful video for the VW Golf showing how to find and change the sensor but note that VCDS is required to cancel the warning and possibly to complete the installation. You can get the part number from the old sensor.

Yes, just move it a fuse fed by a switched supply.

From what I remember on the estate, it is just a matter of removing the rubber pull-down strap then unclipping the trim all the way round. The hard part is clipping it back into place. Perhaps others on here can provide a guide or a video?

Glad you have found a possible cause for a constant discharge. There are several fuses in the switched supply in the fusebox at the end of the dashboard. Check the fuse listing in the car manual for likely candidates for tapping into. You can use a piggy back additional fuse and holder such as the one below. Just make sure you buy one of the same physical size as the fuse you want to piggy back onto. Cost is less than £2 on the bay and over £5 in a well known motoring and cycling store. Routing the wiring behind the trim should not be problem and there is a ground connection stud in the fusebox.

Exercise your warranty if you can. Your battery has lost capacity due to having short journeys and previously standing idle. See my post of yesterday in the thread below, and note warranty conditions now being used by some. Octavia MK2 Owners, worth a read