pikpilot

The battery on my car failed in April only a few days after the 4 year warranty expired. The new well known German make of battery now fitted has a 5 year warranty but interestingly there is a clause in the warranty that says the car must be driven a minimum of 2000 miles per year and pro rata. It says this is to avoid sulfation (their spelling!). Due to Covid etc I had not done the minimum miles pro rata as my driving was in very short journeys most weeks with the occasional long journey that totalled around 2k miles per year. So that is probably what killed off the battery. [Incidentally, when mine failed it dropped down to zero volts in just two days. Putting another battery in parallel allowed the car to be re-started but when this was disconnected the engine immediately stopped. The battery was effectively open circuit and not taking any charge.] On the original factory fitted battery, I had had spurious dashboard lights like yours and was the reason I changed the battery four years ago.

Early versions of our engines (CAYC) had injector problems and later ones used a more reliable different make. Injectors can still fail at high mileage. As the fault code said, injector 4 is the culprit or its associated wiring. Here is a video showing how to do the tests and replace the injector. It was made using a different car make but the process is basically the same. As you say you are not handy with a multimeter I suggest you use a trusted garage.

Which part did you change? What was the fault code number? What coding has been done? What was it you changed again?

Vocals carry most of their information at the higher frequencies. I have a partial loss of hearing at high frequencies so had difficulty in understanding sung words on the car Bolero radio. The solution was easy. Go into tone setting on the radio and move the treble slider more to the right. Job done. Are your tone settings still set at the middle positions?

They probably decided that course of action based on previously stored fault codes.

I had something like that a few years when the can bus to the radio was working in single wire mode. Removing and then reapplying the power would reset the radio for months. I can't tell you how to fix it as the garage spotted the single wire mode and fixed it for free whilst looking at another problem. A fault code is delivered when in single wire mode.

He is wrong. The way you can tell it is an immobiliser problem is that the car starts and runs for several seconds before the immobiliser stops the engine.

As you have a new key then it may not have been synchronised to the immobiliser or maybe it is a manual only key without the chip inside. Also, central locking will not work remotely unless the key is synchronised. This is the most likely cause unless you know that the key has operated before without the immobiliser issue.

I would see what fault codes you have first and post them on here. Failure of the clutch pedal switch will also give the same symptoms.

George, I was talking about cars 10 years or more years ago. The construction rules may have changed since then, especially as digital dashboards can offer more customer choice such as perhaps being able to choose the display to match the country you are in.

The EU requires cars to show speed in both kms/hr AND mph. VAG chose to only put of these (country specific) on the main speed ring and to show the alternative speed digitally (MPH in your case) on the bottom of the display as in your photos. If your main speed ring is in kph then it is working correctly. Using VAGcom it is possible to change the digital display to mpg from l/h and mph to kmh etc. Legally, if you change anything, you must still have both mph and kph simultaneous available, as you do at present. Some people make these changes on cars from the Irish market without meeting the requirement of dual speed display or on UK cars to show digitally mph instead of kmh. But who is going to check if it complies?

For future reference for people finding this thread, the only other beeper is the reversing distance warning located at the bottom off the B pillar behind the trim.

I don't know if the VRS uses the same type of gear knob but mine (facelift) allows you to just replace the chromed plastic part so you don't need to take off the leather boot. I fitted a new 5 speed one very easily; just lever up the old top and replace. The supplier in the Czech Republic initially sent me a 6 speed top. If you can use it then send me a message through Briskoda. The part number is 5LO 798 117. https://www.drive2.ru/l/500901764560584868/

As said earlier in this thread, that is the beeper associated with the tow bar electrics which confirms that the trailer indicators are working. It would be worth looking at all connectors behind the side panel, especially where all the brown earth wires go to a body fixing. Look for corrosion similar to that which you found earlier. It is not unknown for the washer pipe to disconnect itself in freezing conditions and the liquid cause corrosion. (Note it only happens when the washer liquid is too weak. With a stronger concentration it will not freeze). Again as said earlier, check the wiring to the towbar socket as corrosion there can fool the electronics into thinking a trailer is attached if the corrosion provides a sneak path.

I have the same engine, 71k miles and 10 years old too. I can pick up smoothly in any gear from just below 1200 rpm (light throttle initially) but normally I don't go that low. Did your car have the diesel-gate fix? If so I would suspect an injector problem.

The Skoda increase last year to £600 led me look elsewhere. I found garage that specialises in VAG cars and they charged just under £500 including water pump and antifreeze.

I agree with Pete. Isn't there a water cooled oil cooler down there too or am I thinking about another engine? Certainly looks like a small water leak, so small it may not show up for a long time on the coolant level. Can you put a thin cloth or a cold metal object in the "smoke" to confirm it is water vapour.

I used the Carista app to set up coming home lights plus many other useful features that are otherwise only available with VCDS

Yes, I knew the Vrs was different. Do you have a Maxi-Dot display? This has functions not available on the multifunctional display on the Elegance trim.

And my facelift model uses dipped beam and side lights for coming home lights. You activate it by flashing the main beam. When you open the door the dipped beams come and will stay on if any door or the boot is open. When you lock the car the lights stay on for a fixed time. I do not have leaving home lights available. I believe the Vrs uses a different arrangement.

Normal operation. With a quick blip and return on the switch arm it should sweep once then stop. If you keep the arm in the on position it repeats the single sweeps roughly about every10 seconds until the arm is brought back again. If the feature is enabled, it will give multiple single sweeps of the rear wiper whilst the car is in reverse and auto wipers on the front screen has detected rain. Yours may be a failed switch on the control arm.

....and with the bonnet open?

Yes, it is to discriminate against brake lights. With two rear fogs lit people could believe you were braking apparently and also less likely to realise when the same intensity brake lights are actually switched on.

Sorry Pete I completely missed that. Must be getting old!

In my interpretation, D >> - 05.12.2010 means all dates before 5 Dec 2010 [for the C version] and D - 06.12.2010 >> means from 6 Dec 2010 onwards. [for the B version] How do you read it?