pikpilot

Welcome to the forum. There is a thread above this, in the stickies section, that allows you download a copy of your drivers' manual. It is always helpful when answering questions if the person asking for help includes the year of build and engine code. The answer to your question depends on the year in order to determine whether it is pre or post facelift. Hence download the manual first to see if that answers your question.

A quick search on the Ross Tech forum suggests :- 10158 - Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit (Q11)

As it is a high mileage 10 year old car I would start by looking for corrosion or loose connections on all cables from the battery to the electric power steering. That includes the high current fuses in the battery fusebox, adjacent to the battery.

Try pressing and holding the central lock/unlock button. If this does not work then the feature needs activating. If you have a multifunction steering wheel then you may find the previous owner has turned off the feature and you can turn it on again. It can also be activated by the Carista app or by VCDS. Other options include unlocking all the doors or just the drivers' door

Impossible to tell as siren failure is not a common fault. Could be an indication of a failing alarm battery. If your car is over 10 years old then I suggest you replace the alarm unit as it is likely to be running on borrowed time.

If it is similar to the radio fitted to MK1 Octavias, there were many illustrates threads on how to disassemble, retrieve the CD and reaseble again. See if they are still there. Basically it is just a case of taking it apart and remembering where the various springs go.

It is most likely a poor connection with these possibilities: - corrosion at the contacts in the bulb holder - if it is a double filament bulb it has been put in the wrong way round - a poor supply or earth connection at the bulb holder - a poor earth connection where the earth wire joins the earth stud in the left hand side of the boot - general corrosion of earth wire and stud in the boot caused by water or (more likely) rear screen wash liquid. [Note that if the rear screen wash has a low concentration then in winter it can freeze and push open the pipe connection] If you have a multimeter you can check all connections one by one.

Have you got corning lights selected via Carista?

The - sign indicates it is now 196 days since it told you that a service is due.

service display.wmv You say your car is a facelift model so I made a short video to show you how to read the time and miles left before a service is required. NOTE on facelift models you can ONLY reset the service to zero when the spanner is showing as well. The video starts with the ignition ON. You will see me click the speedo stalk one click at a time. It starts by allowing a time reset. When the spanner shows on the display you will see 105 for time in the centre of the display and 8000 miles opposite the spanner. This means there is 105 days left OR 8000 miles before SERVICE REQUIRED comes up again. From memory I remember you need to push the knob in order to do a reset. (but only if the spanner is showing on the normal display). You can click the knob left and right to choose your direction around the loop of functions

I had assumed you had used the speedo knob mentioned above to go through the menu after my last post. It gives you time and miles info to next service.

How long in days and miles does it say it is before the next service?

Note that on some models the action described by Tilt will also change the car from variable to fixed service and can only be changed back by Skoda and perhaps by VCDS or similar. In the handbook for my facelift model it states: "Resetting Service Interval Display It is only possible to reset the Service Interval Display, if a service message or at least a pre-warning is shown in the instrument cluster display." Resetting is the last menu action provided by the stalk/knob inside the speedo If you have the optional multi function display, you can use that.

A quick search on line gives: Engine Control Unit Incorrectly Coded P0610 Perhaps the ECU is inhibiting starting? Find the nearest member to you who is offering to check using VCDS [see map in VCDS section of Briskoda]

The self locking happens if the locking system believes that you have unlocked the car but not opened a door. Many of us have had this problem. Caused by a microswitch in a lock not operating, or a broken wire from the door to the car body (often in the flexible trunk from the drivers door to the body). Easily checked by looking for the door open icon on the display every time you open a door. If not there, it will self lock again. Can be intermittent (such as a broken wire).

Reading the comments below the video, the fix is to stop (by tape?) the air blowing through the gap between the bonnet and the upper chrome part of the radiator intake around the centre of the car. Have you tried that fix?

Yes, I mean the third, high, LED brake light assembly.

That is typical of poor connections. It brings up a fault code but when you check it out it reads ok. You should look for for corroded or loose connections in all the wiring for the high level brake light - for example in the rubber trunking to the hatch and any connectors behind the trim rear side panels of the car. If that fails, then take off the rear brake light and check for poor solder joints in the unit.

I have a 1.6TD 105 hp; now 10 years old but 7 years since I bought it. The main thing to worry about is the dieselgate "fix". Avoid any with the fix (called a Service Action by Skoda) as you will be plagued by EGR and injector problems. A sticker in the boot showing 23R6 confirms this action has been carried out. I avoided the fix despite much pressure by Skoda. Without the fix the engine is a delight. The gearing is such that you need to change out of 1st gear very early (recommended within three car lengths) but from then on the torque is high and pulls well. One interesting aspect is that it learns your style of driving. When I first got the car i found it best to leave the gear changes until it was about 1700 rpm in the next higher gear. Now, with most of my driving around town, I can pull away easily from 1200 rpm with moderate torque. Fuel consumption is 55mpg in town and 60+ on long trips. Best long journey consumption was over 70 mpg using the 50mph and less roads of East Anglia. I am still on the original injectors and EGR. My wife has a Fabia with the 1.2 l, 90bhp engine and that also performs well in that car.

As I said in earlier posts on this thread, the numbers are in hexadecimal (the last h on the right hand display). If you don't how to convert hex to decimal, use a scientific calculator or an on line converter. Then look up the decimal fault code on line. 4fa (in hex) is 1274 in decimal This is the decode of the fault code:- 01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71): Faulty Possible Causes Wiring/Connectors from/to Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) faulty Positioning Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) blocked Positioning Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) faulty Possible Solutions Check Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) See Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) Perform Output Test Perform Basic Setting Check/Repair Wiring and Connectors

You should run a cable directly from the battery but instead use one of the spare fuse locations in the battery fusebox near the battery. You should also not do as you did on the TT as the short cable from the busbar to your next fuse is unprotected against shorts. Contrary to popular belief, fuses are for protection of the cables against overload and resultant fire.

It all depends on what you want to. The fuses are grouped and supplied by rear busbars in some cases. The main choices are 1) how much current do you want to take? 2) Do you want it to be live only when the ignition is on? or 3) to be live all the time. If the later (say for a camera) fuse 24 is the 25A supply to the cigarette lighter/12V supply sockets. The fuse you place in the piggy back fuseholder must be no larger than that needed to protect the secondary cable from fire under short circuit conditions. Use the smallest fuse you can and it must be less than the current rating of the connecting wire/cable. You can wire into the back of the fuse holder using a cable of the the correct current rating and with the correct crimped on connector for the fuse. Unless you are experienced in electrical wiring and regulations, I suggest you use the piggy back type fuseholder and a fuse size as discussed above. Choose a fuse location to piggy back onto by selecting one that is rated slightly greater than the sum of the existing load and the extra current. Most things we add to our cars don't take as must current as their paperwork says and you can piggy back on a 5A or 10A fuse without it blowing with the additional load. If you look in the car handbook where it shows fuse rating for optional extras you do not have. You can add a fuse to your piggy back up to the rating shown as the normal fuse in that empty fuse location. But make sure that your on-going wire/cable is capable of carrying that current or down-size the fuse to the cable current rating.

There is the rub. If it looks the same as '711 and has the same fixing arrangement it does not mean it is truly compatible. Ask them why they removed the label. Ask them where their compatibility list came from. My instinct says that because it is the same size and shape they have guessed it is compatible.

Here is a photo of one of my cargo nets showing the 90 deg twist on and off fasteners that take the plastic clips shown in the post above. It is well worth trying to find some as the plastic clips are hard to remove from the metal body loops in the side wells. The black one is made of plastic and came with with my Mk2 and the chromed metal one came with my Mk 1 Octavia.

First check the earth connection for the lights in the boot.