pikpilot

Pete, here is the page with information in two blue boxes

Do you know what the difference is between 1K0 951 605C and 1K8 951 605C?

And Skoda quoted me £273.59 to replace my H12 alarm for my 2012 car [2011 build]. 7ZAP says that from 6 Dec 2010 onwards, part number 1K8 951 605B is used. Interestingly 1K8 951 605C ceased being used at 5 Dec 2010. It looks like VAG went back to previous version.

That is correct. It has three states: flashing, (initially fast then slows down) - everything ok when locked; solid on - usually a fault in the door locking system; off entirely - only had this when I had a recent problem with the alarm system. Problem was its internal battery was flat. Could also be be caused by broken wire I suspect. H12 alarms have a 6 year recommendation for change according to Skoda.

As Pete said, but expect the alarm to randomly go off as it recharges its own battery. My recent experience is that it takes up to a week to recharge the internal alarm battery and during that time you will have random operation of the sounder or random operation of the flashers (all indicators together) or both together.

Never tried unplugging it but I would expect to see many fault codes stored for "loss of communication with the Alarm unit"

Can't get your video to play, however at 12 years old it is highly likely that the battery in the alarm unit is defunct or nearly so. There will be a fault code stored on your car which may also show whether the alarm unit is an H09 or H12. The alarm unit can be replaced using the instructions in the link below. You can just open up the failed alarm and replace the battery but there is a high possibility the the battery has leaked and damaged the printed circuit board. Skoda want £274 for parts and labour to replace an H12 alarm unit. Recommendation is to change every 6 years. Alternatively, you will find pre-owned units advertised on line at around £35 and up. but chances are they will not last as they have been on a shelf for a while with no charge from a main battery and most are more than 6 years old. There used be a Chinese source but has dried up recently. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500927-guide-to-repair-bosch-h12-alarm-siren/

So that I understand your problem am I right in saying: 1) alarm behaves as expected except:- 2) when you open a door the alarm sounds? How are you unlocking the door - key or remote? 3) red led is not lit at any time

Does the driver's door open icon show on the display? If not, release the elephant trunk cable from door to the body, at the body. Look for broken wires. If non then wiggle the wiring back and forth and see if the icon comes on. Failing that, you probably need to investigate/replace the locking unit in the door. Coincidently my car came up with 01134 (Alarm Module H12) recently following an unusual main battery failure (zero volts and high impedance). During the time the battery was effectively non-existent, the alarm battery lost a lot of charge. It took nearly a week for it to recharge from the new main battery. I had the 01134 (and the horn going off occasionally) during that time. The alarm module is a complete unit (inc battery) accessed by removing the front driver's side wheel and wheel arch cover. Many How To posts on here with photos including battery replacement (easier to just change the module as the old one may have been corroded by a leaking battery). This indicates that the electronics believes the car is still locked suggesting that the car door open signal is not there. You can temporally turn off the movement detector by pressing the switch for that purpose at the bottom of the pillar between the doors on the driver's side. See Handbook.

The standard 1.6 model like mine does not need coding as it is not stop start. I thought the Greenline had stop start and hence needs the code supplied with the new battery to be entered. What type of battery was fitted initially? Do you have a sense wire fitted in the negative connector to the battery? If so you have energy recovery into the battery and need the type of battery used with stop start. If not then a standard battery can be used for which there is no code to be entered. Your stop start function may have been permanently switched off by a previous owner or is faulty but you will still need the original style battery to be used if you have the sense wire.

The glow plug light is a general warning and the reason for it is stored in memory. You need to have the fault code read using a reader or tow it to a garage for them to read the fault code and suggest the repair action. Were there any prior symptoms that could be signs of a failing battery?

Never had this problem so this is guesswork. As you mentioned it started when the windows dropped down, try resetting the end positions of the windows that enables the single press to open or close. The handbook will tell you how and usually you have to hold the open button until the window is right down and and don't let go for a further 5 seconds. Now do the same with the up button. The ticking could also be the anti-finger-trap trying to raise the window further, particular if it sometimes seems to be slow to raise due to dirt in the felt glass guides.

I changed my blades yesterday so it was fresh in my mind. I was quoting from handbook but I will try it your way later in case it is a difference just on the facelift models. Incidentally, your "quote" of my previous post is not my words or quote.

This wiki page suggests generation 1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#EA888 (After reaching the page then use Control+F then enter CCZA. Second occurrence looks like your engine)

As Ken said. Engines take longer to warm up with town journeys (if at all) and lower outside temperatures. You will also see a small improvement after the end of this month when fuel companies change over from winter diesel to summer diesel. This is a transparent change that most drivers don't know happens. Here is a link for the change the other way. https://www.fuelcardservices.com/bp-diesel-formulated-for-the-winter-months-ahead-2/

The damage was done to the battery when it was stored and allowed to go flat through self discharge. Take it back and get a refund.

Don't rule out worn or stuck brushes in the motor.

Does your handbook say how long the body corrosion warranty is for in Sweden? If 10 years, get in quick if the warranty expires later this year

You will also have to set the second one in your list to yes and then turn on the DRLs using the handbook procedure you quoted earlier. The description in the second of the list assumes you have a maxidot display but doing as I say is the same.

You will also have to reset the top and bottom position of the electric windows. See handbook for detail. Your trip/mpg/average mpg/etc readings will have been reset to zero.

I bought my 2012 car in 2015 and they had never worked until I activated them. If you use Carista then you can activate a few other things such using individual fog lights as cornering lights. The DRLs were not mandatory in 2012 so I guess they were put in as preparation. Yes. the ELM number was my typo.

Mine was the same. The instructions in the handbook are confusing as the procedure is called activating the DRLs. That is poor use of words and should be called switching the DRL's on and off. In fact there is another procedure to activate the DRL's first. This is a software activation. I used the Carista app with an ELM 237 unit (see Amazon or eBay) plugged into the diagnostic port. When you buy an ELM unit, choose either a Bluetooth or wifi version depending on the phone/laptop/tablet etc you will use to run the Carista app. Sounds complicated but is actually simple; just a matter of following a few simple procedures. You could do it with VCDS but that is a black art to me.

Some sensors need adapting, using VCDS, before they can be used and the fault code cleared. Perhaps someone on here can confirm if this is case for the No 3 exhaust sensor.

You will need to get it coded, not only for the immobiliser but also the 4 digit radio code and perhaps other things too. The cluster is like a central data store. Easiest way is have someone read the codes in your old cluster and copy to the new one. In the VCDS section of Briskoda there is a map showing locations' of people with VCDS who are willing to help.