pikpilot

This wiki page suggests generation 1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#EA888 (After reaching the page then use Control+F then enter CCZA. Second occurrence looks like your engine)

As Ken said. Engines take longer to warm up with town journeys (if at all) and lower outside temperatures. You will also see a small improvement after the end of this month when fuel companies change over from winter diesel to summer diesel. This is a transparent change that most drivers don't know happens. Here is a link for the change the other way. https://www.fuelcardservices.com/bp-diesel-formulated-for-the-winter-months-ahead-2/

The damage was done to the battery when it was stored and allowed to go flat through self discharge. Take it back and get a refund.

Don't rule out worn or stuck brushes in the motor.

Does your handbook say how long the body corrosion warranty is for in Sweden? If 10 years, get in quick if the warranty expires later this year

You will also have to set the second one in your list to yes and then turn on the DRLs using the handbook procedure you quoted earlier. The description in the second of the list assumes you have a maxidot display but doing as I say is the same.

You will also have to reset the top and bottom position of the electric windows. See handbook for detail. Your trip/mpg/average mpg/etc readings will have been reset to zero.

I bought my 2012 car in 2015 and they had never worked until I activated them. If you use Carista then you can activate a few other things such using individual fog lights as cornering lights. The DRLs were not mandatory in 2012 so I guess they were put in as preparation. Yes. the ELM number was my typo.

Mine was the same. The instructions in the handbook are confusing as the procedure is called activating the DRLs. That is poor use of words and should be called switching the DRL's on and off. In fact there is another procedure to activate the DRL's first. This is a software activation. I used the Carista app with an ELM 237 unit (see Amazon or eBay) plugged into the diagnostic port. When you buy an ELM unit, choose either a Bluetooth or wifi version depending on the phone/laptop/tablet etc you will use to run the Carista app. Sounds complicated but is actually simple; just a matter of following a few simple procedures. You could do it with VCDS but that is a black art to me.

Some sensors need adapting, using VCDS, before they can be used and the fault code cleared. Perhaps someone on here can confirm if this is case for the No 3 exhaust sensor.

You will need to get it coded, not only for the immobiliser but also the 4 digit radio code and perhaps other things too. The cluster is like a central data store. Easiest way is have someone read the codes in your old cluster and copy to the new one. In the VCDS section of Briskoda there is a map showing locations' of people with VCDS who are willing to help.

The facelift version of your car (you don't say the age of your car) has DRLs adjacent to the fog lamps in the Elegance trim. My 2012 car had these fitted but not activated when supplied. Your app will not be able to activated the DRLs. You need something like Carista to make software changes. This is what I used to activate my DRLs and then used the procedure shown in the handbook to switch them on. Note that confusingly the handbook calls switch on "activation"! If you do not have DRLs fitted you may be able to use the fog lights but check the list in the Carista website. If you try a work around, remember that by law DRLs must be OFF when the headlights are on.

Perhaps try flushing the cooling system and replace with new coolant. Surprised the debris is that colour. Perhaps someone put in the wrong coolant at sometime. VAG cars are fussy about only using VAG coolant.

As in the previous post, a sticky vane control will give the symptoms described and be resettable by turning the ignition off and on. Often the warning light does not come on. You should get the failure codes read as it is equally likely to be the EGR valve clogged up with soot. You can do it yourself if you buy an ELM 327 reader that plugs into the diagnostic port, and link to a suitable app for Android or iOS. Choose a unit that connects via wifi or Bluetooth to suit your phone/laptop/computer etc.

Not sure this would work. If the supply to the alarm is removed then it will run on it's internal battery. If the battery voltage gets too low the alarm intermittently chirps as a warning. How long it takes will depend on how old the battery is and it's condition. Same applies to disconnecting the main battery.

Do you hear the fuel pump in the tank when you switch on the ignition (before cranking) first thing in the morning. If you do hear it then wait until it stops before cranking.

The glow light is a general warning that there is a fault code to be read. It is unlikely that glow plugs were the cause. Limp mode is often associated with turbo control issues or fuelling. Get a code reading from another reader, It would be helpful to other members if you could put the engine details and car details in the post or better still fill in the Location and Model on your membership page - see mine.

Since drying it out last year and also using the car more often, my problem has not returned. You just need to find a dry sunny day. I suspect the problem is not moisture in the cluster but across terminals/connectors on the control unit beneath the dash.

UK is metric too. Horsepower is an old unit and I only quoted it as you used in the 1st line of the first post. Metric unit of power is the kW. Even my gas bill is now priced in kWh. PS is a non standard unit left over from the past. It is a German translation of horsepower (pferdestarke) but 1.4% bigger than a horsepower. I am pleased to see that VAG car handbooks quote engine power in kW, although they also show HP or PS as the general public only recognise traditional units for car engine power.

746 Watts is 1 horsepower so 125kW divided by 0.746 is 167.56 horsepower or 169.9 PS [PS is the metric horsepower used by car manufacturers.] So 125kw on the fuel filler flap is the same as the 170 PS they quote in sales literature. Need to stick to one set of units and not be confused by PS. It's horses for courses

Have you tested the motor you took out? There is the possibility that the it is not the motor but the control signal. I don't know about the '08 model but probably the same as the facelift models where the motor is controlled by CanBus. Check for broken wires in the wiring tube that takes the wires from the hatch to the body.

My 2012 Elegance model does not have the black line on the mirror. I checked the build codes of my car and it has "5SJ Left exterior mirror: LRight exterior mirror: Right exterior mirror: aspherical " and "6XD Exterior mirror setting: Exterior mirrors: electrically adjustable/heated" No mention of auto dimming. I guess that must be a difference between model years. I have never found a need for auto dimming on the external mirrors so perhaps there is difference in the glass tint or the aspherical glass parameters between these model years.

The side mirrors are not auto dimming but have some tinting. Since you also look at the mirrors through the tinted side windows, plus the effect of curvature of the mirror glass, I have never felt that they need to be electrically auto dimmed as well. Perhaps you have a clear replacement mirror on the near side? Perhaps even a flat glass?

It really is a pain to release the lamp assembly. I tried all the tips from this forum unsuccessfully. In the end I put the wheels on full opposite lock (right lock for left hand bulb), removed a few of the wheel arch cover fixing screws at the front and I could then get my hand behind on to the lamp. I have a post on here showing pictures. Next time my car was in for service I asked them to remove the cover and free it up before replacing it. Note that the DRL bulb is not a standard bulb but one that resists the vibrations in this location that can break the filament. You need a PY21W SLL long life bulb.