pikpilot

Thanks for that. It may help someone who wants to dive in for other purposes too. I will check my door seals as they are now nine years old (doesn't time fly?) and it only happened to me this year.

I would be very interested is knowing how this board got wet. Me and others on here have had the problem of random multiple warning lights on the dash after standing overnight through heavy rain. It also caused dim illumination of some warnings such as the turn indication when they should be off. The dim lights could be turned off or swapped to others by simply turning on or off other non related switches.. The fix was simply to leave the windows open for a few hours to dry out the car. From your experience it looks like it was water on that module. Where is mounted?

This is how to get to the LEDs: Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1 (2) (1).pdf For the LEDs, one poster said:- "I only needed to replace the LED’s that illuminated the Rev and Speed needles. I bought these from Rapid Electronics in Colchester: Part Number: 55-2890 Spec: 3528 smd LED 6500K 6.5lm 120deg 30mA 3.1V Once everything was put back together, the new LED’s are about 20% brighter then the old ones and not quite as white. However, because I replaced all the LED’s for the Rev and Speed needles, this difference is not as noticeable. You may be better off getting 5.5lm and 7000K led’s." Others have said that a better colour match could be made with 5000K colour as people who had used 6500K leds reported a touch of blue. Note you need to be proficient and suitably equipped for changing surface mounted devices. The other option is send the display assembly away to a specialist company who will change all (for colour matching) leds for about £150. Search the forum for details if you want to go that route. Note that the digital kms display is there because the speedometer does not have dual markings for MPH and kms and is a legal requirement. However some people have changed the set up of the car's software to fool it into being an Australian model. Can be done with VCDS software. See the forum of that title on this platform.

Does the dashboard brilliance potentiometer on the dashboard work for other lights? If so, the it is more likely failed leds (or their solder joints. I copied the instruction for removing the display and replacing the leds from a thread on here, and sent them to a friend with a similar problem to yours in his Yeti (uses Octavia 2 parts). He needed one white needle light and some reds. He also replaced all leds of the same colour to ensure that all were of the same colour and brightness after the repair. It took him about a day.

What happens if you push on the clutch pedal? Any change?

If the ignition was on then that is option. Carista allows to choose: Enable remote control buttons when ignition is on Yes / No I don't know what happens when the ignition is off but easily tested as pressing the lock button above the gear lever works exactly the same way as the remote.

The only thing that gives those symptoms with no fault code is a sticky vane problem in the turbo. I assume your car is turbo diesel as the is no information in your post. This is a common problem and I suggest you search on here for the many posts (and solutions) and also Google it. The good news is that you can reset the limp mode by turning the engine off and on again when stationary. The problem will come back next time you demand high torque such as when climbing hills or overtaking.

The items I mentioned are controlled electronically and there are no fuses. It is fairly common, with age, for the door controller to receive false signals from failed micro-switches in the door locking mechanism resulting in any or all of: no door indication on the dash, no light on the door card when the door is opened, no puddle lights at the bottom of the exterior mirror. There are two mechanical reasons reported too. One is is a broken wire(s) in the wiring snake that you see when you open the door. It is the rubber tube that connects the door to the body. Peel back the rubber at the body end and check for broken wires in the tube and the connectors. The other mechanical reason is failure of the mirror switch and this has also been reported. I have not done this myself on a Mk2 but it is probably like others in that you can prise it out from the door trim and disconnect the connector (make sure you don't allow the cable fall down inside the door). If you want to buy a replacement, find the part number on the old unit, probably starting 1K. I had to have the door controller replaced on my car and the Skoda garage that did the work forgot to re-program the controller for the door card light initially - and later had to program the controller again as the external mirror puddle light ceased operation after a few weeks. I said check for fault codes as you can probably see now that modern cars are not like older cars which had a supply via a fuse to a switch and a wire out to turn things on. Some multi function switches on the car simply change the resistance seen by a controller when you select a new switch position (and may be the case with the mirror switch, but I have not checked). The function receives its supply via the controller.

Get the faults codes read. The mirror supply is from the controller which also turns on the door card light when the door is open. Do the puddle lights on the bottom of the door mirrors also light when the door is open? They are controlled and powered by the same unit.

Is the door open display on the dash working for both front doors; are the lights near the bottom of the door cards working?

I used a Wynn's cleaner on my Mk1 Octy 1.9L. If is the same product, it goes into the fuel tank and burns away the build up up of deposits that occur on the input side of the turbo that lead to the sticky vanes issue. In fact after I had the turbo replaced some time later, the Skoda dealer put another bottle in the tank at each annual service as a preventative measure. Just check that it is compatible with the modern emissions systems on the Mk 2.

Just a point to remember about self amalgamating tape - it does not stick well to other things, only itself. In industry it is usual to first wrap with pvc electrical tape, then the self amalgamating tape over the top and finally another layer of pvc or similar tape. Each layer is longer than the one before. Gives a long-life waterproof covering.

Amazingly high for item 1. if you mean the chrome effect gear position indicator at the top of the gear change lever (which tends to flake off at the sides and go "dim" as it wears) then I bought genuine new one for 23.93 Euros post paid from Latvia. To replace it you lever up the old one and push in the new. A five minute job. [ https://cars245.com/en/ ] The coolant bottle is cheap and a diy job. The washer bottle also but you do need to create access by removing things or perhaps going in underneath on a lift. Can't really comment on the roof rails but it sounds like there is a large mark up.

Red steering wheel light means the power steering is faulty and won't let you start. Amber is advisory and will allow start. Need to get the diagnostic codes but guessing at a damaged wire or connector; could also be corrosion in the engine bay fusebox or even battery terminals.

What do have plugged in the AUX. Perhaps it need to know there is something there first?

Check again fuse 1 at the end of the dash. It powers the diagnostic port and the fuel pump. If the fuse is ok then see if you can check if one of the "pins" the fuse pushes into is powered. If not then is it an upstream fuse that is blown. Don't have wiring diag to hand so ask on here again an someone will tell which fuse to check next.

As said above, change the battery and then check the alternator is working by checking the battery with your voltmeter. Should be over 14V with the engine running at over 1500rpm. Do this immediately after changing the battery or you will damage the new battery if you over discharge it by driving with no alternator. If the alternator is working I would leave it for a while until you have proof it is failing. With your mileage you are more than half way through its life.

Also a sign of the alternator not charging the battery. Use a voltmeter or multimeter to check the battery volts before starting and again after trying to start. With all the electronics in the car it is sensitive to low battery voltage. Typically it puts up a random range of warning lights on the dash when the voltage is too low. Using an external battery charge to recharge the battery will get you going again for a short time in an emergency. How old is the battery? How many miles has the car done?

Did you check the fuses in the engine bay fusebox?

Fault codes on ABS are stored until cleared

Clutching at straws (pun intended) there is a switch on the clutch pedal too. I Believe it is used to reduce maximum revs during gear changes as well as the obvious one of requiring you to press the clutch pedal during starting. Just a long shot but worth checking for loose or damaged wiring.

Check the abs sensors on each wheel. Using a good diagnostic reader will tell you which one.

I was looking for a link to the handbook for a Mk 3 Fabia but could not find one However I thought this might be useful: Handbook for every Skoda model past and present .......except the Fabia 3 https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Since writing the above, I have found the handbook for Fabia 3 model year 16. Unfortunately it is a bigger file size (33Mb) than the max allowed as an attachment on this forum (10Mb) Anyone wants a copy, please directly email me your request.

It is just physics. It is like when you have an AAA battery that is almost flat. When you read the volts with a meter you notice it reads a lowish voltage but when you then put a load on the battery and read the volts, it shows zero volts. The car and the battery behave the same way. The car can only supply a very small current (the leakage current). When the lamp is switched off you can read something small on your meter but with the bulb in situe this small current is diverted through this the and effectively shorts the source to ground and reads zero volts on a meter.

If you enlarge the image you can see the decimal point, and it reads 4.34V. One of the problems of taking readings with a meter is that the supply to some bulbs, such as the brake/side filament, is pulse width modulated so the same filament can be used for both normal and bright applications (brake and side for example). Using a digital meter can give false readings reading due the way it treats a PWM waveform; using a cheap analogue may give a better reading but not fool proof. The other problem is that when the supply is switched off (which it does when a failed bulb is detected) you are left with the leakage current from the driver circuit. A digital meter such as yours will have a very high input resistance and sees that leakage current as low level voltage - hence your 4.34V. [voltage read is IL x Rin ] Best to check your bulbs using a 12V d.c source such as your 12V Aux socket. Also check the bulb mount assembly connections by taking it off the car and using a continuity checker.