pikpilot

On high mileage engines it can be a sign of blockage of the filter screen on the oil pick up tube in the sump.

The clue is the reset to zero. This happens too when you disconnect the battery so I suggest you have an intermittent 12V feed. I would check fuses for being loose or, more likely, corrosion on the blades and the part the push into.

What happens if you don't press the central lock button? I ask because when you press the remote lock button and hold it to raise the windows, it also locks the same way as the central lock button. [As an aside, pressing and holding the central lock buttons will raise or lower all windows together; useful in summer] Or does your way force it to not set the alarm because the ignition is on? If so can you press the remote instead of leaning in to press the central button, before turning off the ignition and taking out the key? (I often lock my car with the windows half open and the alarm does not go off).

Have you tried another battery? It is not a common fault but I have had experience in hot countries of a battery either going open circuit or one cell failing short when hot.

How much did your local Skoda dealer want? Or is he too far away? Or no-one on Jersey?

New cars now use the R1234yf gas which is flammable (and expensive). Halfords sell it as a diy recharge container but it is marked Extremely flammable gas. There are other hazards too. Google it.

One replaced with a breaker part but be aware there is a huge number of variations depending on model, year and options.

There are a few similar posts on this forum. Thought to be water corrosion initially causing the contacts to run hot. One other poster found corrosion on the other side of the board too in a different location. Other posters replaced the complete assembly at not too bad a price.

I believe a faulty switch on the clutch pedal will also have the same effect of limiting throttle, so check that out at the same time.

You need the stored fault codes but I suspect a faulty pedal position sensor (accelerator pedal is "fly by wire").

If your car does not have have a maxidot display, you can use one of the software option such VCDS. Personally, I use Carista as it offers many other options too. Lastly, you can ask your Skoda dealer to it, at a price!

You can also set the car to unlock the boot when you unlock the doors (and choose whether to just unlock the drivers door or all doors).

I don't have solution but I do have some questions. When you "So every now and then the boot will become a right arse and sometimes pop open and other times just refuse" I assume you mean that it just releases the catch to enable you to lift it? Or does it pop completely open like some models? You said "as soon as I’ve popped the boot from the inside and pressed the button" . Could you please give more details of the button location as my 12 plate 1.6L does not appear to have this. Do a search on this forum as I have read in past threads about micro switch failures in the unlock unit and bad adjustment of the catch. You can use the search facility on this site or use Google with Briskoda Octavia 2 before your search terms.

Yes, there is always a new version coming along! He has some G13 so no reason why that can't be used. The coolant tank is marked with top up with G12.

Go with the G13. This is the latest version and what the garage put in my 1.6L car when they replaced the water pump. The total capacity of the coolant is 8.6 litres and a minimum is that this be 40% concentrated G13. The back of your 5l container will show concentration against protection temperature. This info is in your car handbook. If you need one, you can download it from the sticky up the post page. I would remove the bottom radiator hose to dump the old coolant.

I do not intend going any further as this is a one off event due to long term little use during current restrictions. The contacts etc. were probably bridged by moisture/water and for only a few days and so unlikely to have produced any corrosion. In your case I would dry out the interior of the car as I did and then do more unless there is a permanent problem. My car has climate control and I make full use of that to keep the humidity around 80% (factory setting and not adjustable.) This works well even on rainy days to remove any misting very quickly. It does that by using the very cold air from the air con to condense water vapour out from the incoming air before passing the air to the heater and then into the cabin at your set temperature. Some people who have never had climate control can think it is wrong to run the air con even in winter, but even in cars with manual control, the driver's handbook can still recommend the use of air con to demist the windows. If you have climate control in your car I suggest you set it to AUTO, or push the AC button, then set the temperature control to your liking. Only one small disadvantage is that the outlet air is cool (but dry) until the engine warms up. The Mk 2 Octavia does not have a clutch for air con engagement but instead the compressor is engaged all the time. However, the stroke of the pistons is varied by a swash plate that can control piston displacement from zero to max. This makes a huge difference in efficiency compared with the older bang bang method of modulation. I cannot detect any increase in fuel consumption with it on, except during the hottest summer days.

See my post in the thread "Green clock with arrow and left indicator light on dash when lights on"

See my recent post at the end of the thread above: "Green clock with arrow and left indicator light on dash when lights on"

I had exactly this and more at the end of last week. With handbrake on, ignition on and lights on I got the ASR and red coolant over temperature warning on dimly. With handbrake off, ign on and lights on I got the LH turn light and ASR dimly lit. With lights off and handbrake on I got the ASR and over high coolant lights still on. This problem was after a week of strong wind and rain and a long time of no use. I suspected it was water somewhere as the whole car was "steamed up" as soon as I closed the door and was reluctant to clear with a fibre cloth. [My car never normally has condensation as I use the climate control even in winter to keep the humidity low] So, the fix: First I left the bonnet open for the whole of a sunny day in case it was water around the ecu - no change Secondly, on the dryer sunny day of Saturday, I left all the windows open with the car locked. When I checked in the evening everything was back to normal and has stayed that way. Conclusion: I believe the very high humidity, (perhaps I have water leak somewhere) resulted in water droplets forming across terminals in the electronics inside the car. See photos for details. Note the camera aperture is set to make the dim light more visible.

You don't say what year your car is but most have note in the handbook saying that when you change the battery in the remote you may have to re-synchronise the key fob. It then goes on to say how to do it. If you don't have a driver's handbook, you can download a copy from the sticky post in the postings list. Both keys will start the car because they only use the passive chip in the key fob to supply the immobiliser code.

When I had a driver's door controller replaced, the Skoda garage had to recode it. I would not rule it out.

It is just a warning that you have a fault code stored. Use a reader or have a garage do it for you.

Irrespective of what is causing the problem, until you fix the cause you can still close (or open) the window as follows: Press the window switch until it "bounces" (finger protection) then within 2 seconds press and hold the switch again. This is normally shown in the driver's handbook.

Did you check for corrosion around engine bay fuses and connections as previous post? If not, you may have disturbed something to make a temporary good connection. Same applies to other wiring near the battery.

The display as you have is the default. As your kms/hr display does not also have a mph ring, to meet EU regulations they have to show the mph elsewhere. They chose to use the location you showed. This is the exact opposite of the UK spec cars where the speed ring only shows MPH and the small digital display shows kms/hr. Annoyingly this solution is just so VAG can avoid having to dual mark the speed ring in kms/hr and mph, like other manufacturers.