pikpilot

As suggestion above and check for corrosion around the engine bay fuses and fuseholders.

Aldi had a code reader on specials this weekend. If you're quick you may still find one. It is a simple combined reader and decoder aimed at people who do not have dedicated software to do the decoding. [Suggest you buy some food when you are in there to avoid breaking lockdown rules]

For a comprehensive answer take a look at: https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/dual-mass-flywheel/#:~:text=A fully functioning DMF will,clutch and apply the gas. Basically, you look for judder when you put the transmission under medium load or listen for noises when idling. Can also be felt as a judder when accelerating.

Failing dual mass flywheel?

On starting if it detects a wrong or no immobiliser chip in the key it will allow you to start the engine then it will stop up to 10 seconds later. It will also bring up an immobiliser symbol on the display. Another possible cause is the sense coil or its wiring has failed. It is located around the key barrel in order to read the chip in the key.

Your handbook is likely to have the procedure. For my 2012 model it says: Synchronising the remote control If the vehicle cannot be unlocked by actuating the remote control system then it is possible that the code in the key and the control unit in the vehicle are no longer synchronised. This can occur when the buttons on the radio-operated key are actuated a number of times outside of the operative range of the equipment or the battery on the remote control was replaced. This means it is necessary to synchronise the code as follows: › press any button on the remote control key; › pressing of the button means that the door will unlock with the key within 1 minute. Try this then. Follow the procedure then lock the car with that key, then unlock again with the pushbutton. Once the remote locking is working you will be able to start the car. The other common procedure (not in the handbook) works only to clone to one key to a working key.

I wonder if your mirror has been replaced before and the wrong one fitted? I never got to see mine with the mirror out as the Skoda garage got it out in the end. However, I do know there are two plastic tangs that push into the two pairs of metal clips shown at 11 o'clock and 3 o'clock in your top photo.

The car handbook for my car gives the lever/wait three seconds procedure and uses the word activation. However, there is another activation procedure before that for cars sold in the UK before DRLs became common. This additional one time activation can be done through the diagnostic port by the garage, or using VCSD or using the Carista app and now some others. I used the Carista app.

You can use one 30A fuse if the sub load cables are rated at 30A too. Another cause of wiring fires is when a small load is connected to a cable with a large rating and fuse but the sub load has only small cables. One example is where the 30A supply of the cigar lighter has a plugged in load which has a small cable with no fuse. This is the reason why you should always use a plug with a fuse in the tip (typically a glass fuse of 1A or less) to supply things like cameras and external navigation units such as Tom-tom (or use a lower current fuse in the cable). The cable and internals of such low current devices will burn before they will blow a 30A automotive fuse. As I said before, fuses are there to protect the wiring. You cannot then extend the cable with smaller wire without adding a fuse to protect that smaller wire. That includes the hidden small cables and circuits in electronic equipment. However, the manufacturer will usually have a board mounted fuse on small loads such as a radio to avoid burning the printed circuit boards. These are to protect the unit itself. You still have to protect the cable as shorts through cut and chaffed insulation will cause melting of the cable unless it has an appropriate fuse in circuit.

Although two cables can be put in parallel, they should be both be connected to the same double rated fuse. So, yes, you need a 30A piggyback to match the fuse position you are using and secondly you need to use a fuse position that is rated for the current. Don't forget that your chosen position in the fusebox will see the sum of your load current plus the current in the other fuse at that location so you can only use a piggyback if you will not exceed the limits of the upstream fuse. So ok if you use say, the cigar lighter fuse as that is intermittent use. You can understand now why it is normal to run a 30 A cable from the tow bar socket directly to a dedicated fuse in the engine bay fuse box if you intent to supply a caravan which has high electrical loading.

Yes you use one of these, and for small loads such as a camera this way to go but not if you have a large current such as 30A. It is important that all cables between the the 30A load and the battery which see 30A have to be rated for that. Just connecting the piggyback connector to a random fuse position could overload wiring elsewhere, or more likely, blowing a lower current fuse further upstream. Your best bet is to find a circuit that is already rated for such a load, such as the aux supply/cigar lighter and piggy back on that. Your driver's handbook/user manual that came with car will tell you which fuse number and its location. These change with model year and trim level. Make sure that you buy the correct type of piggyback fuse holder for the fuse position you want to use. The one in your link is for a mini fuse rather than the more common larger style. Also, if the wire on the piggyback looks small (like the one you showed) it is not likely to rated for continuous 30A.

NEVER run an unfused cable. Many car fires are caused by amateurs running a cable from the battery or other sources in the car without a fuse to protect the cable. You have the cable in the right place now so it is just a matter of connection to an appropriate fuseholder that is not being used. By appropriate, I mean one that is capable of the full current you want to take and has the necessary switching - for example, do you want it to be permanently live, only available when the key is in the ignition, or only when the ignition is on or engine running? Fuses are grouped in the fusebox in this way. Many auto electricians run the trailer wiring to a spare fuse position in the engine fusebox. What you cannot do is run the cable directly to the battery. The fuse is there to protect the cable, not the load. Fuses to protect the load must be at the other end of the cable and lower rated. If in any doubt, get an auto electrician to finalise the wiring.

The steering wheel icon and perhaps ESP icon will still be lit until you have driven a few hundred yards.. You will also need the reset the limit position for the one-touch part of the electric windows (see your drivers handbook) and the time on the clock. You will have lost all data relating to long term mpg, trip data etc as they will have been reset to zero.

If it cuts after about 10 seconds or so it could be that it is not recognising the anti theft code. In which case there will be a warning light on the dash.

The usual problem is that it seems impossible to take the mirror out! You have gouges in the plastic and other damage that suggest someone had previously tried to remove the mirror, with difficulty, using a lever. Yours appears to be a facelift mirror. The mirror should go back in with a click when pushing centrally on the plastic "glass". You may have it in place now and it will not fall again, but if it does the post pictures of the back of the mirror and the inside of the mirror housing so we can compare it with others. If yours has two long tangs that engage with sockets at the back of the housing, the also press on the glass front in line with the tangs.

You can also do it with the Carista app on facelift model but you have to check first if yours is an earlier model.

When we replaced my wife's car with a Skoda Fabia last February, I asked the same question of the Skoda garage and he gave me a small explanatory booklet which answers everything. It is the same one you get when you pick up a Skoda approved vehicle. Ask them for the warranty booklet.

And don't forget Trading Standards too. If they get too many complaints about the company they will take action.

If you go to facebook page I quoted earlier, there is normally an advert on the right hand side for another group where you can find garages who will return the ecu to original software and other options.

Yes, the extra wear and high failure rate of other components such as injectors. In some cases the engine had to replaced by Skoda under "trust building measures". Probably not so much worry using it as second car or has been bought at a price were unreliability has been factored in.

Yes. If it has had the fix then be wary of other likely failures, particularly EGR. See https://www.facebook.com/groups/emissionsscandal. You will need to join (for free) to see posts.

If I was doing this I would first check whether the car has had the emissions fix. If it has, revert it to original pre-fix software. You can find out if it has had the fix by entering its VIN in a check page on the Skoda site. A quick check on the 1.6L is to see if it has a "flow straightener" in the air duct after the air filter. Remove it if you revert to standard ecu software.

There is a similar thread running at the moment in this forum which has some similarities. Both cases mention problems with glow plugs. Take a look at:- Might be worth you looking for corrosion/water damage under or around this fuse board...

Glad you got it sorted. The previous owner should have put in a new fuse panel rather than trying a fix at one point which ignored potential problems elsewhere on the board. Just make sure the fuse board is for the same model and year as they vary with fuel and options.

Failing factory fitted battery on my similar car caused multiple warning lights on the dash plus relay chatter on trying to start. The battery read around 11V off load, but clearly went lower on load. New battery fitted after 7 years. The battery on my Mk1 Octavia (no fancy electronics) lasted 13 years and would turn the engine over from a much lower battery voltage.