vindaloo

I'll agree that a Fabia on standard suspension shouldn't have a Jabba RARB or anything stiffer unless it's for a bet involving beers and a track.

The Jabba one is fixed. The Whiteline ones can be adjustable. Though I don't think I've seen many fixed Whiteline ones in the UK.

My experience is that side wall stiffness varies a lot by tyre manufacturer. (Assuming summer tyres). Only considering the Fabia, the most pliant have been Uniroyal Rainsports 2s and 3s, I think. Something like a Pirelli P Zero or a Continental Sportcontact 2 seem far stiffer. I can feel the difference if say, Rainsports on the front are swapped front/rear with Contis. The car suddenly seemed to steer better but the back felt a little more adjustable. (The main reason for doing this BTW, is that the car tried to throw itself off the road backwards in the wet with Rainsports on the front and not Rainsports on the back). My car's not standard suspension wise. Eibach springs, dampers and a Jabbasport RARB. It's the RARB that makes things a little too interesting if the tyre balance is wrong.

Bog standard ones for the 6Y seem cheap. BUT they cover the model range so don't have the VRS twin pipes or the chrome tip. Most also tip downwards. £50-£100 ish. There are options with push and screw chrome tips or weld on tips but some fettling would be required.

My investigations have been inconclusive. Tyre size 205/45 83W R16 was fitted from new. AIUI either Bridgestones or Continentals. I'd guess that's also on the sticker if it's still inside the fuel cap. I have tended to fit 87W as I like running higher tyre pressure on the fronts and think that a reinforced or XL tyre should have a stiffer sidewall to help steering..... If not comfort. I made some remark back in 2010 according to Briskoda where I asked if anyone knew of a statement in the owners documents that the car would explode if driven on the wrong tyres. Various organisations seem to recommend the "W" rating as the correct one for the car. <shrug> To be honest, I'd rather put a better branded V rated on it, in a push, than a ditch-finder with a W on the side of it.

The standard fit for the VRS is 205/45 R16 83W. Apparently needs the "W" rating rather than a "V" rating due to engine/drivetrain torque. If I can find them I spend an extra £5 a corner (usually) to get reinforced or extra load tyres (87W). As the Fabia VRS front end is a heavy chunk and some tyres feel too "floppy" on the front end and quickly seem to adopt a deflated look.

I'm going to guess he got them off eBay or similar. I had a look around when this topic first came up. A number of people selling adapters.

If all 4 are the same there shouldn't be too much of an issue. Though load rating number should be 83 minimum and speed rating should be a W. Possibly an extra 5mm a side gives a better chance of keeping the alloys un-kerbed.

Handbrake.... Can be the rear caliper(s) seizing. Best sorted out by freeing it off at the earliest opportunity or a new caliper or two will be required. Can fit handbrake "helper" springs to the calipers to help them once free or if new. Rad leak might be as simple as resealing a switch/sensor and/or changing the coolant. Don't bother with the PD150 head bolts and gasket unless you know it's leaking. J.

No coding to just "get the car to work". If you've the OEM radio head unit. It'll either "smart code" itself and realise it is in the same car and be fine.... Or it'll demand the four digit code to work. Electric windows: Will lose the "single/one touch" functionality from the drivers door switches until you re-enable them.... By raising the windows and holding the button on "UP" until you hear a little thump/donk from the window mechanism. Need to do this for both sides. Only works from the driver's side switches.

For some reason I read that and I get an internal monologue in Geoff Boycott's voice "bloody modern integrated rubbish.... In my day...."

Answer is probably "take it off the car and bond the two together on a bench.... Use a f*ck ton of clamps." . Unless you can figure a way to support the back of the inner bumper whilst applying pressure to the VRS bit from the outside.

Replace all the boost pipes and limit torque. More torque feels like more fun but puts enormous strain on the drivetrain.

The lower part fits over a standard rear bumper. They are bonded together. If the car's had a minor rear bump and gone through the insurance, some repair shop has probably messed up the bonding or failed to clear off all of the release agent on any new parts. Particularly, around the rear arches, it's worthwhile making sure the gap is closed. Otherwise gritty, muddy crud gets in there, keeps the gaps open and look bloody awful.

Load of standard parts replacements on eBay. Cost for springs and shocks is quite reasonable. Please do the bump stops and dust covers too. The top mounts and top bearings could also do with a change if not replaced.

Track the coolant leak. Common spot is bottom right (as looking at the engine bay) of the radiator pack. Fix the leak wherever it is. Can't really diagnose another/a further problem on top of existing contributing factor.

The little grille to the right and slightly below the AC button. The panel comes off by pulling from the bottom to loosen, then waggling and persuading the top to pop free. Bending it will probably break it. Can use a flat blade to prise off the vertical side trims to help. Excuse overspray on historic attempt to lose the multiple shades of grey/black interior plastics please.

Whilst you are at it, have a very good look around the turbo pipes. Bottom pipe off the turbo can split. All the others tend to develop "dodgy" connections and can pop off under boost. None of which is good for the turbo. Inspect everything before assembly. There shouldn't be swarf or anything metallic swanning around in the head casting but at least shine a bright lamp around to check the airways and water oil/waterways you can see are clear.

MOT time could be bad if retrofitting to previously Halogen headlights. MOT rules changed. So in theory all retros will fail. I "might" get away with a retrofit as my car's option codes show it already has Xenons. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions/mot-special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions

Replacing the existing low-beam projectors with bigger bi-xenon ones. Not a UK site. Czech, I think.

Check all this to be sure. I'm an armchair expert not a vehicle electrician. IMO... First pull off the battery earth lead. Pin 5 (13 in your doc) needs pulling out of the car side connector. This can be done with a straightened paperclip or pin etc. Heatshrink and tape the wire out of the way as it's a permanent live. Fit a new pin to your H/U to amp cable (remote turn on) and stick that into the connector in place of the supplied pin 5 (13) one. That should solve the amp turn on issue. Another way is to buy a loom adapter/extender and hack that. But that's more spaghetti to cram into the space behind the h/u. The pins are available but probably cheaper to buy in a set with the connector(s). https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALiCzsaXMN7VLhOyWL164jx9Y_nSva-UVQ:1652178197843&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=8+pin+ISO+car+radio++pins+buy&hl=en&client=firefox-b-d&fir=mWmb8sRl89Y0KM%2CRDuWEmjanCUn1M%2C_%3BqB3udzH4cnAE4M%2Cdciv_1lTDTuPXM%2C_%3Bxx2hojzOmf_CjM%2COQ7nXYzK_1ysxM%2C_%3BxFMpNWlFWqnfiM%2Ch40_u9v2TTsv-M%2C_%3B1WUH8dJmOWU4lM%2COQ7nXYzK_1ysxM%2C_%3Bt1cDwZNm4NLGIM%2CHLc8vUCeqFnJzM%2C_%3BXRXJV_x4jIPluM%2CTHn2QX3QlvRQHM%2C_%3B2huRcYOC3jwX1M%2CUzZ0U38NHg5HZM%2C_%3BUGXE3mnnZV2ZAM%2Ch40_u9v2TTsv-M%2C_%3Bc_khWqPsbWKdLM%2C32RRFDizVfLiMM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kRBpV1ZONbZC9-0l5wmri6Zd5LHbA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjM7tm029T3AhXFWMAKHUOsAikQjJkEegQIVRAC&biw=1600&bih=1075&dpr=1 https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/vehicle_electrics/electrical_system/infotainment/radio_systems_i/contact_assignment_of_multipin_plug_connections_a_b_c_on_rear_of_radio/

If any thread is showing, shine a light on it. Undoing is "up" the ramp/helterskelter/helix away from the joint.

There are different setups apparently. According to this site. That might be the one you need. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-vw-2-wire-glow-plug-wiring-loom-for-vw-1-9-2-0-8v-tdi-pd-engines-038-971-782-b.html

What was the last thing done to it before it became "slow"? Or has it been that way since you got it? Basic question: Is the EGR blanked at the exhaust manifold with a nice substantial plate and gaskets or has the EGR pipe been left flapping... 'Cos if it's the latter, they tend to crack and allow the boost elves to escape.

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/8/833-833010/ Item 15 I guess. Only seen one offer of a new one from a CZ webshop. May not even be available there. Tried your friendly Skoda dealer?