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James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale

FREEDOMTech
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Everything posted by James@RRG_Skoda_Rochdale

  1. I've replaced lots of fuel flap actuators in the past.
  2. Any adjustments made that affects the rear toe will affect how the ADAS system works and will require calibration of the sensors thereafter. Minor front toe adjustments will usually be ok. The equipment for ADAS calibrations costs £1000s and requires special training. The full process can take up the majority of a day if there are several sensors requiring calibration and possible adjustments. Some systems associated with the alignment are: Front radar Front lazer (if applicable) Front camera Adaptive headlights G85 steering angle sensors It's all become a bit mental.
  3. I have a NEXTBASE 522gw which was fine on it's own until I added a rear view ball shaped camera, then it completely wiped DAB reception. I moved the rear view camera and added the ferrets which resolved the issue. We fit loads of nextbase 322gw units with the nextbase hardwire kits and have no issues.
  4. I've had every car I've ever owned remapped. Usually I opt for Revo as I've used their products as an installer and found it to deliver what they say it will. This time round however I opted for the DTUK Tuning box option of: CRD tri channel box Pedal box DSG flash Not the cheapest option by any means but with the app connection it's very customisable and it's transformed the car into a right animal. it's been on since last September and never once hiccuped or caused me any issues other than catching me out with how fast it is. No fault codes, no warning lights, just good fun. Not everyones cup of tea I can appreciate but it does what it says on the tin and as someone who's worked in the motor trade for quite some time I should be more sceptical than most. 184tdi, DSG with 4 wheel drive.
  5. As I said I can't find the information regarding the extended policy or ask the question. Would you believe the wording in the warranty guide says "warranty does not expire with the transfer of ownership"? It's not the first time the brand has given out conflicting information 🤷🏼‍♂️
  6. The last time it was recorded within the dealer network it was over 100k miles. At the moment, without the documentation in front of me I couldn't say what the restrictions on the warranty are but according to the skoda system it's showing as having full component cover until June. I can't ask the question to the relevant people either as they closed due to Covid.
  7. That's factory extended warranty that you buy when you purchase the vehicle, this has a policy that was taken out last year. The extended warranty on used vehicles is provided by a third party and they have their own guidelines, which I can't find.
  8. The policy is with the vehicle, not the owner. It shows as live on our system but I can't find the extended warranty Ts&Cs to confirm what the milage restrictions are.
  9. I know of motorhub. They trade from an old multi storey carpark. They do have some very elaborate stock. The vehicle above actually has a complete service record and was only chopped in (probably to a dealer who chose not to retail it because its milage) last week. It's got a full service history, had the coolant regulator replaced and has skoda extended warranty on it until june this year.
  10. There's a little, white plastic restrictor in the bleed assembly in front of the gearbox which is a known problem causer and folk often remove it. The result is a more responsive clutch pedal with a faster return speed. The manual golf, leon and S3 drivers have been doing it for a while.
  11. The clutch pedal sticking would be an indication of a hydraulic system fault and not the clutch itself.
  12. It's gases from the crank case and perfectly normal. You'll see the same from the oil filler if you remove the cap.
  13. It doesn't have one.
  14. Genuine originals from TPS or Skoda, not the ECO stuff. I don't rate brembo pads, i had to replace them after 20 miles in my own car because they banged and clattered over bumps.
  15. From memory there's a diode in the light units. If one fails then you experience the issues above. I'm sure the glovebox light is the same so you can use that to swap out and test each boot light.
  16. The gearbox and bevel box use separate oils. The bevel box uses about a litre of 75w90s and the gearbox (if it's manual) holds 2 litres of various different oils depending on which transmission it has fitted.
  17. The part at the front, attached to the gearbox is the bevel/transfer box. The Haldex parts all live at the back.
  18. On the workshop manual, engine category and it should be under cylinder head and valves. It'll be called a "toothed belt"
  19. Presumably off the line and signed off as completed.
  20. Check the rear tyres for stepping on the edges, that can cause unusual noises from the rear. In the past I've come across centre prop bearing being noisy but that constant and increases with speed. Of late I replaced the haldex unit on my own car which had a similar noise, I disregarded it until the unit failed completely. That had been serviced, it was just bad luck on my part. You'll probably have a 5th generation unit. The differential and haldex use different oils. Haldex oil in the coupling unit and 75w90s in the diff. The haldex takes about 850ml and the differential about 1.5 litres. You drain them then refil until it spills out of the fill hole.
  21. Less than £100 all in. They take about 5 minutes to fit and the part is only £35 quid.
  22. Recent findings have shown that what skoda uk and what skoda central publish don't correlate very well. There was another post where myself and @e-Roottoot had conflicting info all from the same brand 🤣🤷🏼‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️ Just to give an example - the fixed servicing menu mentions only a time based timing belt replacement and not mileage 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️
  23. The unfortunate thing with the motor trade is that people have a very low opinion of those that work in it. The unfortunate thing with the above is the motor trade is full of people who are mongs, snakes, morons etc so it's quite an apt opinion for the most point, that applies to both dealer and independents. It's a trade that schools point the stupid kids in the direction of. Just to clear the air though guys it takes a lot more than some comments on the Internet to rattle my cage. I'm a sarcastic arse hole at the best of times but sarcasm rarely travels well without tone of voice. Dash cams again. I always plug them back in when I'm done, usually as I park the car up in the car park. Whilst a vehicle is under our care it's insured by our insurance. Sadly GDPR has become a big concern these days and a breach can result in a hefty fine and or job loss for the guilty party. It's a legal concern that isn't going away, if your dash cam captures someone else's personal information then that's a breach, we could end up in hot water. One could argue that your dash cam is your responsibility to check and make sure it's functioning correctly regardless of outside influences just like drivers should (but rarely do) check their tyres, oil, screenwash etc. If that's part of an agreement with your insurance then maybe notifying them of the dealer visit might be the answer should an issue occur? I've known people do just that when they have trackers/black boxes fitted. Our contact centre will generally contact people to advise them that their timing belt is due when it's approaching that time, it's their job. The calibre of those people might not be that great, they might not know all the ins and outs, more often than not the person that calls you has probably never had their head under the bonnet of a car. All skodas (and the rest of VWG) are due at 5 years or the appropriate mileage. Those staff members do the same for any other pending work.
  24. Regardless of auto/manual transmission you have a transfer box bolted to the gearbox that uses it's own oil.
  25. The rear differential compartment uses 75w90s, about 1.5 litres. I used millers premium gear oil. This is also the same stuff that's in the front transfer box, that holds about a litre. There's a drain at the bottom and fill in the middle. You drain it all out of the bottom then fill it until it leaks out of the middle hole. I've attached a decent picture I helped myself to off google. Mine was like new after 56k but changing it won't do any harm.

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