numskull

Those screen errors would seem to be associated with a wheel sensor, but I don’t think that wouldn’t make the car go into limp.

What he said re the camera. The quality of image is excellent on our 280.

Cheers Lee👍🏻. That should be good for maintenance of the screen. Also, I need to use the CO on SWMBO Focus screen as it’s covered in wiper scratches, so I’ll get the rayon pad from Slims…

I think you are touching the door handle whilst washing the car!

Odd. I’ve owned this car for nearly 4 years and I’ve changed the battery once during that time, immediately after getting the dash warning. IIRC it was about a year ago.

Looks like the same one is used on both DSG models.

The best average I’ve ever had is 37mpg, but had to drive like a Granny to get it, so everything in “E”, coasting whenever it was possible, never going above 70 and taking a week to get there! Full urban I get 25, which is still better than the Missus 2003 2.0 Focus!

TBH, service costs are already not that dissimilar to ICE vehicles and you can absolutely guarantee they’ll increase. Obviously there are far less wet consumables with an electric vehicle, but items such as brakes pads/discs, suspension parts costs (which will have higher wear rates due to the weight of batteries) will be ramped-up. I’m sure they’ll also start bringing in more expensive service items, such as (pointless) battery “conditioning”, which will be mandatory to protect revenue.

Mine lasted 6 years but obviously it’s not the smart key. The spare is still fine.

Like me then…. Except when a **** is up my bumper as I’m in the middle lane at 75mph then it’s bye-bye time! 👋🏻

UPDATE TIME So last week I decided to finally get this sorted once and for all. I bought some cerium oxide (CO) and mixed it to a fairly thick consistency. Using the small lithium DA with a soft black flat pad, I set about cleaning the screen, concentrating on the contaminated area where the OS wiper ends on its sweep on both the vertical and horizontal, using up/down and left/right motion at a medium speed. After a dozen passes or so, the screen was completely smooth, with no sign of the contamination remaining. Incidentally, the screen remained completely cool during the process. I then did the same for the NS wiper. Once all the contamination was removed, I gave the entire screen a clean with a thinner mix of CO. The screen is now completely clean and the wipers are totally silent! 👍🏻 So I can thoroughly recommend CO to remove stubborn “stuff” on a windscreen.

Not if you have it on ambient temperature. It’s just about getting rid of the water hiding behind trim, mirror housings, badges, in the rain channels etc.

If you want a serious blast of air - hot or cold - to clear water from wheels, window crevices, engine bay etc. get one of these. Having tested it against my mates, its as powerful as one of these professional dryers. He was gutted! 😂

From this I gather you’re not a clown going round corners.

Yeah, 2nd that.

What’s the mileage on your 220? I think if you’re not planning on doing high mileage, I wouldn’t bother. Personally, it was a daft decision of mine to get the MKII 170 given the mileages I was doing at the time. In any event, I wouldn’t go back to a diesel.

Probably. TBH he didn’t volunteer the info; I asked if the under trays caused issues for the inspections and he said not really, as they can inspect the driveshafts though the wheelarch.

No idea. It comes with the charger itself. I’ve moved mine today to the chassis connection, as JS RS and AS pointed-out in the previous posts. Yesterday, I had the original MOLL EFB battery replaced by the RAC (finally gave up after 7.5 years) with a Varta AGM unit.

None of those would surprise me. 1. Halfords who last did the MOT said they inspectthe drive shafts through the opening in the inner arch, so no advisory on that one. 2 and 3. Do you tend to take corners in a “spirited” manner? I ask as my son tears through front tyres at an alarming rate (worn to the limit on the outer 1/3 of the tyre in 12k) yet in insists he doesn’t take corners that hard, til I pointed out he was generating about 5g at my neck as he whipped his CLK500 round corners. I took over driving, showed him what he does and he’s now slowed down. Or it could be low tyre pressures. 4. I’ve had that mentioned on the 22/23 MOT but not on the 23/24 one. I think it’s down to “visible interpretation”.

I’m guessing you tried the old “pull up the switch and keep holding it after the window closes for 10 seconds” thingy?

Cheers both. 👍🏻

What you’ve saved is the setting to which it’s been set. With the ignition on, reset your seat to the position you want, press the SET button then the memory you want to assign the memory to.

UPDATE So the RAC Patrol Technician arrived today at 0910. He tested the OE MOL battery and it failed the test, stating a failed cell. He’d brought a RAC Branded Varta Silver Dynamic AGM battery. He fitted it, coded and was all done in 30 mins. Perfect. Oh and seems the info I was given re the patrols being all done at 16.00 was nonsense; he got sent the job at 19.45 last night and he finished at 20.00, hence why I was his first appointment today.

Sorry, I should’ve been clearer; it’s the permanent connector I was referring to, not the charging clamps which, of course, means the illustration totally contradicts the text. 🙄

Why is this not advisable, AS? I only ask as the CTEK connectors supplied with their chargers are designed to fit directly to the battery terminal clamps, although I’ve always charged it via the 12v socket in the boot.