numskull

@Windybum Wow! How’s the car been? Any issues?

2016 - 52k (83.7km)

Perhaps it’s worth getting the car scanned to see if fault codes have been registered? If they have, they might point to the problems you’ve encountered.

Hmmmm. I've never really understood the point of these flaps. Of other marques, those I can recall I’ve noticed them on are both types of Macan and the 335i, and oddly, that only has one, on the left exhaust and, of all cars, the Dodge Charger. On the 280, I've only ever noticed them opening when I’ve first started the car and it’s been idling for few minutes and then when they open, it gets a slightly deeper and throatier note to the exhaust sound. Is that the point of them? Does anyone know if they’re coded to open at specific times, RPM’s or throttle positions? What I do know is the return springs are not that robust and can snap and the OE replacement’s are horrendously expensive, so I bought a load from Ali for sod-all, just in case.

@Berisford Agree, it could be, but then again if there was a fault it wouldn’t show the flash on the startup. @deedie Was your 300 mile journey on majority motorway, whilst being a centre lane hog at 52 mph with frustrated drivers under and overtaking you, or on A roads through city/town/village centres?

Sounds like the charging circuit needs a reset which, unfortunately, I’d suspect will mean a dealership visit.

Interesting mod there, Nick… 🙂

Or perhaps it’s just not encountered a situation where the system is triggered. Apart from that one incident, I can’t recall it activating.

If you’re getting the flash when you start-up, the system is working. For obvious reasons, warnings on the OS are far more prevalent than the NS.

Sounds like a turbo or injection issue. But it’s odd there’s no fault codes.

The NS also warns if you’re cutting in too early when overtaking. I only noticed this when a twerp on my NS decided to pull out as I was overtaking them and I had to accelerate more and get fully in front of them as they continued to blindly go about their manoeuvre.

There maybe three. The OE one I have is also double sided, but it is twice the length of the boot and is folded L2R across the centre. The side which one usually sees and uses has the same material finish as the boot floor itself, which means you can still use the load fixers. However this spilt 60/40 down the middle and these flaps can be lifted and put across either, or both seat backs to protect them from damage. On the reverse is thick, hard wearing grey plastic which protects the boot floor and seat backs when carrying longer loads or general cr@p to the recycling centre. I also have the OE plastic floor protector which is actually very thick, so maybe the later versions are thinner plastic?

Ours is 10 next March and is currently on 52k and will probably be around 58 by its birthday. There’s a possible wheel bearing at the rear in the way out, and the usual suspension creaks, but apart from that, touch wood, it’s all OK. Still absolutely love the car and have no intention of selling it. In the 6 1/2 years we’ve owned it I’ve still never had the balls to floor it, as the way it heads to the outside lane, making other drivers have a double-take as you pass them and hit illegal speeds at even 70% of full throttle, it still gives me goosebumps. This year, I’d like to get the leather on the drivers seat and steering wheel refurbished, primarily to remove the glossing if that’s possible and to clean the stitching too. I’m planning to fully clean the underside, arches and wheels during the summer break. The only upgrade I’d like is to get the DCC slide control. I did consider getting a VC a couple of years back but having recently driven a VW ID3 and a Kia Sportage with VC’s I still prefer the original analogue dials. I think the 272/280’s will become sought after in another 10 years, given their true Q Car status. Whoops - seem’t’ve massively gone off topic…🙄

This is the original MIB you have fitted?

Which actually does work really well.

It’s not a Ford, so there are no visible elements. However, it’s also not as fast or effective either. My wife’s 2003 Focus clears its frosted screen in less than half the time it takes the superb to even begin to show signs it’s started.

Blimey, quick. What did you use?

Photo might help.

Just a thought. You might get something similar on AliExpress.

Unfortunately, I’d say you’d have no chance of getting those separately. What’s happened to yours; been nicked/broken?

Ours leaked about three years ago, in exactly the same place.

In a nutshell, spacers won’t improve “performance”, but they’ll provide a better visual “fill” of the tyres to the wheelarch. A Racechip GTS will give you an improvement of around 45PS and 75 nm of torque. I’ve been running one, plus their XLR throttle box for four years and I’m very happy with them both. I also had their diesel version on the CR170 MKII and was very happy with that too.

I’m not going down the ICE vs. home HiFi rabbit hole again. I’m not into DSP stuff when listening to music and the vast majority of stuff I listen to in the car is spoken word when driving and DVD’s / MP4 / MKV / TV when parked so for that, it is excellent. What amp is driving the B&W’s?

I LOVE to see 30avg on mine… closer to 20 unfortunately.

Best standard ICE I’ve had in any car. As for bass, I don’t really understand how much overwhelming bass is really needed, but then again I’m an old fart. Midrange is great.