Sanqhar

Thanks. I was using the wrong search term. It's now down to finding the correct width that will securely fit in the bar slot. I'm amazed that two strips from some suppliers can cost more than I paid for the bars! I'll keep looking but in the meantime I might just go down the duct tape route. tom

Now 1 left tom

I have some cheap Aldi/Lidl Brio roof bars on my Karoq. I am in a situation where I need to leave them permanently on. However the channel on the underside causes a permanent whistle. Other than using duct tape has anyone found a rubber draft strip that will seal the channel? tom

Just ordered one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-Volkswagen-DataPlug-for-app-usage-on-smartphone-VW-Data-Plug/264747012721?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Note, only 4 left. Tom

tom

Eco softens the throttle response although probably not enough for the snow conditions you are talking about. tom

When I was looking to change cars I drove a BMW X1. I was very disappointed with the tyre noise, my Yeti was quieter. A little while later my Yeti was in for a service/MoT and I looked at the Karoq SEL. After a test drive I bought a pre-reg car of the same spec (64 miles on the clock). The tyre noise was still there although not so bad. Both the X1 and the Karoq were fitted with Bridgestone Turanzas, say no more! tom

That's the way it looks to me. You'll need a Torx bit, not an Allen key. tom

Thanks Berisford I couldn't find it anywhere. gigolo456. Judging by the ridges that can be seen it looks like it can be moved a millimetre at a time. Count the ridges before you start so you can put it back to original if it doesn't work tom

I have looked and searched but so far have not seen how to adjust them. tom

So...is it the trim or the actual tailgate itself? My first call stands, the bump stop on that side. I don't know how to adjust it. https://500px.com/photo/1027904224 Hope the photo works. I'm using 500PX and can't figure how to find the link on their website to get the photo to appear here. I got it to an email draft and copied the link from there tom

Sunglasses in the holder? tom

Re winter/all season tyres whether on 2wd or 4wd. It's not about the "going" but the "stopping" that's important. If you can't go then you are stopped and safe (relatively). If you can't stop well you can work that out yourself. Also regarding cars being better years ago. Years ago cars were less powerful and ran on narrower, smaller wheels with more flexible higher profile tyres. Modern cars are more powerful and run on wider rims with harder lower profile tyres. That's progress. tom

So what is the 034 insert. Where does it go, what does it do? Photo?

Have you found the bump stops I was referring to? tom

There is a rubber "slot" each side on the lower bodywork and a corresponding rectangular "bumper" on the tailgate. As I said the tailgate bumper looks like it might be adjustable. I'm not prepared to prise mine in case I muck it up. tom

Are the rubber bump stops between the body and the boot lid adjustable. The part on the tailgate looks adjustable although I don't know how. tom

It could just be the normal "thumpy' tyre suspension/combination. Check tyres and tyre pressures. Bridgestone Turanzas feel hard to me, they are not my favourite tyre. tom

Just been out to the car to check, forgot I had a wardrobe in bits in the back (Varioflex seats removed), I just love this car. DSL's picture is like mine showing the "top hat" unscrewed (and sitting at the bottom right hand corner). The centre screw wobbles enabling you to get the spare in the optimal position before tightening. tom

Is the spare wheel loose There is a large screw that sticks up from the bottom of spare wheel well. My memory is that it is a bayonet fitting (like a light bulb) except it can turn all the way around and fixes in two positions. In the loose position it will lift out. There should then be a second black plastic "top hat" that screws down on the screw above fixing the wheel in place . The "top hat" also supports the boot floor. If you have the "top hat" piece in position and the two are turning together, then in the resistance position try unscrewing it while pulling. When you can, visit a dealer and look at one of theirs. tom

There is another thread on this subject on the "other" forum. https://www.karoqforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=561 Rejecting advice here: https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/problems-with-a-new-or-used-car-your-consumer-rights/ tom

There are other posts re start/stop. I wouldn't get too hung up on it. I mainly only do short journeys and the start/stop is rarely working on my petrol 1.5 tsi SEL. One controlling factor is the state of battery charge. Remember charging does not occur all the time, a lot is done on engine overrun/coasting. tom

The higher engine temperature maybe a sign that a regeneration is taking place. Certainly that is the way the system burns it off. On my previous car, a Yeti tdi, I never had any idea as to when a regeneration was happening until I stopped and heard the fan running. There was no indication on any of the warning lights on the dashboard. Never had any problems until I had the "fix" (don't get me started on that subject). I only stayed with a Skoda because I liked the petrol Karoq and my local dealer (Vindis, Bury St Edmunds) well looked after me through all my car problems. On the Briskoda Yeti Forum some were using a VAG DPF App, OBD plug, to monitor the state of the DPF. Don't know whether it would work for Karoq diesels. Perhaps someone here would know. When I was looking to get rid of my Yeti I looked at a diesel Land Rover Sport. At least the salesman was straight with me when he said that I should take it for a 25 mile run at least once a week. As it is, nearly all my journeys are under 3 miles and with Covid restrictions now not even doing the occasional long run, buying a petrol car was the right decision for me. tom

What does the owner's manual say? I strongly advise getting it to a dealer or at least phoning the dealer. I no longer have a diesel but could this be a DPF issue? Diesels notoriously don't like lots of short journeys (the reason I now run a petrol). Does the fan run for a little while after you turn off the engine? In which case you are interrupting a regeneration, too many of these and you have a real problem. Have you checked the engine oil level? Interrupted regenerations lead to the excess diesel pumped into the combustion chamber (to do the regeneration) running down the bores and raising the engine oil level. Subject to what the dealer says, and I know it's marginal re the rules, but I would take it for a 15 - 20 mile dual carriageway run keeping the revs up i.e. not in top gear. This should get the engine hot enough for the DPF to do a regeneration. Hope you get it sorted. tom

Amongst all this advice you also must not let the engine labour and vary your speed i.e. don't run at constant revs for any period of time. If you take a long motorway trip try to vary your cruising speed by 5-10 mph every 20 minutes or so. tom