xman

That filter is ok, its the correct type

Possibly a DMF failure (dual mass flywheel)

I haven't done one myself, Skoda dealer did mine. But from what I gather its simply unscrew and fit new, it round the back of the block so access may be a little difficult. Not sure what procedure or precautions needed if fitting a new tensioner to a worn chain setup (initial start up) Also need to check if the new tensioner design is compatible with the chain kit currently in place as normally all parts are changed, there are two types and probably not interchangeable (different guides) Revised style https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f109507f-chain-tensioner-16935.html Original style https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f109507b-chain-tensioner-20404.html Some more info here http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-audi-a3-1-2-tfsi-2009-2012/ I strongly advise against the use of any flushing products. It may damage the engine. Particularly one with a turbo and hpfp driven off the camshaft.

Reading this thread, I don't think there is anything wrong with your chain. Even with the revised chain and tensioner its possible to experience a brief chain rattle on start or more seriously a loud machine gun clatter I've witnessed this on many occasions on 2 engines one 2011 with the revised kit, and another late 2013. Two reasons behind this 1) A brief (<2 secs) rattle at startup is possible because although the hydraulic tensioner is extended with oil pressure, there is also a ratchet mechanism incorporated. This is stepped, so its possible for it to slip back up to one step when stood, slightly loosening the guides. On earlier revisions, this ratchet was quite weak and could slip back or even strip completely and become useless. The new tensioner also extends to a longer length than the early one. 2) More seriously when the engine has turned backward or put in a situation where reverse torque has been applied. This happens for instance where the car is parked in a forward gear while facing uphill, transmitting a turning force in the reverse direction. Perhaps you put the car in gear while you changed the filter and pushed the car back a bit, it only requires the slightest movement..... This has the effect of tightening the chain and exerting excessive force on the adjustable guide, forcing the tensioner back and simultaneously allowing the chain to go slack on the non adjustable side. This is quite a dangerous situation that could lead to chain detachment on the bottom sprocket depending on how stretched it is. So, if you hear a really LOUD machine gun / death rattle on start up, SWITCH OFF IMMEDIATELY. Then restart and chances are all will be quiet as the chain will have engaged in the sprocket properly and oil pressure will have tensioned the adjustable side as you turned off. There is an official method of measuring chain stretch and this involves removing the hydraulic actuator and measuring the position of the guide with a depth gauge. However this is more about fobbing off a customer in my opinion. A loud regular tick, rpm related is normally from the high pressure pump more audible at tick over and nothing to worry about. Some misleading information about the oil filter, there is no non-return valve (thats in the oil pump), and the servicing drain down arrangement is a combination of the sprung wide O washer closing off the drain orifice in the oil housing, the smiley mouth in the pic below .. There is a bypass valve built in the filter as most canister filters have, that opens to prevent loss of pressure when the filter is blocked but not relevant in this discussion. I strongly advise against the use of the cup socket for tightening the filter as its really easy to overtighten which you will regret when it comes to removal when the O washer has swollen making it difficult to remove. Hand tight is fine. I presume you have the correct filter, if you give us the exact part no you use I will check it is the later style. Forget all about the carbon build up/flushing rubbish discussed earlier (unless its been totally neglected and done over 40,000 miles on the same oil) Best way to clean an engine internally is simply change the oil. (504.00 or 502.00)

Oh yes it does ....🤗( if its a mk4) Look at the top of the battery, pull the top cover open if there is one. And look for printed in large bold letters... EFB EFB+ or AGM

If its under 6 yrs old and under 100k miles you might want to consider Skoda's All In offer. https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan Subject to a free, no obligation, elegibility check that will highlight any issues with the car. You can book online and it takes about 2 hours and will give you a full report. You then have 7 days to decide if you want to go ahead. 2 services (your choice of fixed or variable), 2 MOTs, 2 yrs skoda warranty, 2yrs Skoda breakdown cover.. The free printed report would be weight in gold even if you take warranty cover elsewhere....

Just my advice. Don't yank the trim panel with great force, sure the metal clips will come out but you will likely break the plastic holders attached to the back of the trim panel that the metal clips are retained in. Best to just keep increasing pull force gradually until the metal clips eventually slip out of the tailgate slots. Pull near the location of the clip and work your way around. Poor design. Hope you understand.

Just caught a 5 min fragment where they took a newish MG and a 9yr old 1st gen Leaf for a run down the motorway at 70mph. An expert university of Warwick battery scientist explains the importance of keeping charge levels within a window of 80% max to 20% min to prevent accelerated battery degradation. It was backed up by advice printed in the MG user manual. So they started at 80% and tested how far it would take them to get to 20% The MG managed 72 miles using 80% to 15%. The Leaf went 17 miles before the presenter chickened out thinking it would run out completely. Maybe the Leaf had done over 200,000 miles as many EV fans seem to claim they often do. Never mind, it can be repurposed to power someone's house for an hour or two, or be sent to one of those yet to exist battery recycling centres along with our blue bin rubbish that go to a mythical place where it gets put in a container bound for Malaysia

Changing a battery isnt rocket science. Its well known that spurious error lights will often come on after a battery change and simply driving around in the car park will extinguish them. Alternatively even a basic obd reader can reset them straight away. Virtually all cars of recent vintage with stop/start (aka micro hybrid) requires battery recoding after changing to reset the battery management system. Any auto mechanic/technician should know this and should have a piece of kit to do this. Recoding with an advanced OBD reader is simple, quick and shouldn't cost you anything above the cost of battery replacement though no doubt many will try to bamboozle you into paying. Some mechanics will use a battery maintainer typically plugged into the 12v socket to avoid triggering errors. But it doesn't alleviate the fact that the battery management system needs to know a new battery has been fitted, only possible by recoding. Neglecting to recode leads to shorter service life for the new battery particularly if its a different type like the Ah rating, EFB v AGM type etc. Make sure you don't get a standard (cheap) old school battery to replace an EFB or AGM battery as it won't last long and you will end up struggling with stop/start

508 spec oil is the wrong oil for a 63 plate 1.4tsi. It should be 504 spec 5w30, or can use 502 spec 5/10w30/40 if on annual fixed regime. 508 spec was not introduced until 2017 and intended only for new designs after that date. It is not backward compatible with 504. The oil is too thin and may/will damage your engine and thats why its using so much.

Yes, I had the new kit fitted to an old style 2011 CBZB Octavia engine by my Skoda dealer. You need to fit new top and bottom sprockets as the chain design and width is different, also the chain guides and hydaulic tensioner must be changed. All included in the correct kit. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f198158b-timing-set-1-2tsi-63kw-77kw-25113.html Note the warning given.... Timing set for cars with 1.2TSI 63kW/77kW (CBZA, CBZB) engines, set includes: timing chain, guide and slide rail, 2x timing wheels, chain tensioner and mounting accessories (screws + washers) newer version. For vehicles manufactured before 10/2011, it is necessary to replace all components contained in the set!

@Meridion As you changed the oil filter yourself, did you check you removed the old sealing ring when removing the old filter. The sealing ring that sits in the sprung bit of the filter (it seals the drain down channel in the housing)....This can get left behind when removing the filter and you might not have noticed because old oil in the housing covers it. From experience, the sound recording you posted earlier strongly suggests the hydraulic tensioner is not pushing the chain guides strongly enough tension the chain correctly leading to it riding up over the bottom sprocket and that is what you can hear. low oil pressure If you left the old seal behind, you end up with 2 sealing rings on top of each other and the filter will not function correctly, the result being low oil pressure and flow. Low enough to put the oil light on intermittently (when hot) but sometimes not, but low enough to cause engine damage and/or allow the chain to jump the sprockets. A common issue to untrained or DIY mechanics. If in doubt, remove the oil filter and check there's only one sealing ring in there. Oil capacity is either 3.2 litres (->2012) or 3.6 litres (2012->) You need to check engine serial numbers to check as it depends when the engine was built, not when the car was built or registered.

Not true. IME Dependent on how the charger or USB port hardware (at both ends) is designed and how compliant and if a standard or proprietary design is used. It is highly dependent on the cable used, which depending how its wired, and the wire used (resistance). So some cables wont work for charging with certain combinations of charge port and hardware. Try another (different manufacturer/type) cable.

Not sure if @e-Roottoot is being sarcastic about using off vehicle battery storage. Powerwall 2 has a capacity of 13.5kwh. Its maximum charge/discharge rate is 3.68/5kW, round trip efficiency of around 90%. Never mind the £10k+ you would typically need if you want "free" solar power which may not charge it fully on every day of the year. Note if you don't recharge using your own solar panels, and use cheap off peak electricity to charge, then Tesla's warranty is limited to a total aggregate throughput of 37.8 MWh which is 2800 full cycles. As a business owner I don't see how this would ever be a good investment as a buffer for EV charging.

Available from about £20 here if you dont need automatic dimming https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-3/spare-parts/body/rearview-mirrors/side-rearview-mirror/mirror-glass-394.html

Those family houses with a standard single phase supply with 4 car/van owners parked on their drive, how do you charge them simultaneously?

I reckon @e-Roottoot is correct in that the statistics are just statistics, i.e. lies. Probably 10% are declared on drive when there is no room because of 3 car household and one car drive or just a plain lie for insurance purposes. Another 10% are off the radar, no insurance or declared at wrong address even wrong owner. A recent case in the papers about a poor guy whos been battling with DVLA for over a year that the uninsured car registered in his name and address is not his and not even there. £1000's of pounds in fines and ballifs threatening him. Let us not forget that parking in car parks or in bays by tower blocks is usually on private land, but not really a drive or owned by the vehicle owner. Would a landlord permit or fund installation of a charger in his property, I suspect many would not allow any alterations. Maybe a law is required in that case.

https://www.racfoundation.org/motoring-faqs/mobility#a6 https://www.gov.uk/government/statistical-data-sets/nts09-vehicle-mileage-and-occupancy#table-nts0901

Have you tried turning off the infotainment completely? It could be a pop coming from the speaker(s) - i.e. electrical problem

Autohold applies the EPB automatically when you turn the ignition off. What gearbox has @daveh44 got? If its a manual, and you are waiting at the lights with EPB on. If you are in gear with the clutch down and you lift the clutch ever so slightly the EPB will release. If you have autohold on, then everytime you stop and if the brake pedal is pressed firmly enough, the autohold will engage all brakes hydraulically (not the EPB) and the brake light will illuminate green on the dash. Again if in gear and lift the clutch a bit, the autohold will release. To avoid this happening unintentionally, put the car into neutral. Don't know how things work with DSG but I suspect it something similar, if you are in gear, EPB or Autohold will release if you touch the throttle. So put it in neutral.

I can't see why they can't just use a plain vanilla DQ200 with a mild hybrid engine. All the mild hybridness is contained in the engine in the guise of the belt driven oversized alternator / weedy electric motor. Add a bit of a lithium battery (0.7kwh iirc) and some electric power management and all you have is yet another ice engine. Just stick a standard DQ200 on, maybe tweak the dsg software regarding coasting etc. Hybrids like the GTE or iv are completely different architecture

I would take it to a Kwikfit or F1 autocentre. Tell them there was a loud bang from the rear and could they check if a spring has broken. Normally springs break off at the very top, the pig tail end. The broken piece can sometimes still be trapped in the suspension or have exited down the road. It will take them 5 mins to check. Usually at no charge. They can also check for obvious problems, worn bushes etc.

It does not have any non return valves! It has a bypass valve internally as any decent oil filter would have in case the filter gets blocked. It also has a spring loaded rubber seal arrangement that seals off a return to sump oilway in the engine side housing when the filter is screwed down. The purpose of this is that when you unscrew it by a couple of turns, the oil in the filter will drain down to sump rather than spill all over the side of the engine, the alternator and aux belt. After all the filter is fitted upside down. Mann, Mahle, Bosch, others, they are all the same, just possibly different filter element design and material. The return to sump gallery is the smiley mouth in the pic below. This is sealed shut by the wide rubber O seal on the filter when screwed down. The seal is clearly seen uppermost here.