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I thought I'd add my tenpenneth as I have just fitted and immediately removed a set of xenon bulbs to my Yeti. Sick of being blinded on my way to work in the mornings I fancied a set of super white bulbs so I could 'give some back' on full beam This was last week when the roads by me were really icy and not treated as I'm quite rural, the roads are quite safe as the icy bits can easily be seen. Once the xenon bulbs were fitted I was quite surprised to see there was no ice on the road next morning despite having scraped the windscreen, so speeds went up a bit. That's when I noticed my first issue in that that the xenon bulbs caused a lot of reflection from leaves, grass verges and the road surface itself that all looked very similar. Approaching familiar bends at speed I realised that if I didn't actually KNOW the road I would have ended up in the hedge as there was no definition. Then I got a glimpse of the road surface from someone else's yellow headlamps and realised the road actually were VERY icy and I couldn't see it due to the white light from the xenons! ( Thank you Cross Climates) I took the bulbs out, and have gone back to my old 'yellow' bulbs, perhaps the KIngs Clothes are not so great after all?

I know 😞 I have no choice, one injector is massively over fuelling, and it sounds like it's running on 3 when regenerating.

My CAYC tdi used to go into limp mode at around 2k rpm when I first bought it, it was a London car and was never driven any great distance. Turbo vanes were seized, 'throttle valve' in the intake totally sooted up, EGR blocked and soot in the DPF at 100% according to VAG DPF ... I also found many perished vacuum pipes; turbo activator, and a couple of modules that deal with overboost and the EGR activation. Pipes replaced, LOTS of goo put thru the tank, EGR spray (Revive), good fuel, a deft hand on the ignition switch when it kicked into limp mode to cycle the ignition and a regular smacked bottom on the bypass using as many revs as possible ... and 6 months down the line I can now rev to the red line, roll the throttle in high gears and fuel economy is now 40's (up from high 20's on purchase). Final repair will be a new injector this week. All of the above separately and in conjunction with the other problems all activated the glow plug light and limp mode. It's not usually a simple one-repair solution.

I've got a can of Normfest DPF100 that I've been intending to use, having seen the goo that comes out of the exhaust I won't be doing it on MY drive

Another regen today; 17g to 6.7g in 36 miles and 1/3 of a tank of fuel. In the midst of this mess it went into limp mode and stalled driving up a steep hill in traffic, which wasn't nice. A few things have struck me as strange and contra to what is stated in the manual; 1) regens start from cold, within half a mile 2) a regen started today when the fuel reserve light was on (30 miles left) 3) when the regen had completed with 6.7g and 28% still left, the red DPF light came on, but VAG DPF showed no fuel being injected

@Toneb forgive me, I was quoting from Father Dougal

Is that small, or far away?

Local garage diagnosed one injector heavily overfuelling; 3 running at approx 0.6 and correcting themselves and the other sitting steady at 2.7. A replacement is on a 5 day back order!

My 1.6tdi is start/stop, I bought the biggest Bosch battery that would fit in the tray from Tayna - prices are keen and they delivered within 24hrs. Which was nice

oh please, don't get me started ... Today the car performed a regen on the way to work with red DPF light on the dash but only burnt down to 15g - VAGDPF showed no more fuel was being injected, the soot figure remained stable so I gave up and switched off. On the way home the yellow DPF light came on instantly even with a cold engine, and the car performed horribly until the light went off at which point the soot was down to 8g and the car was running as smoothly as ever. Since Sunday the car has travelled about 80 miles and sunk over half a tank of super diesel. My finances will roll over a die unless something changes - I think I have at least one duff injector. So ... it's booked into my local (trusted) garage for some diagnostics.

Thanks for your updates, the verdammt car started a regen from cold tonight, and once my appointment was concluded it regened on the way home, again with a cold engine! But the soot load didn't move more than 0.5g of soot and actually rose whilst I was sat on the drive waiting for the process to conclude! To improve the drive I have found an old copy of vcds 15.7.1 today which allowed me to raise the tickover slightly (by 30rpm), this has smoothed low speed running but I've had no chance to try it properly due to SNOW on the Worcs hills tonight! Your experiences are very interesting, I will certainly adopt the differential pressure sensor tomorrow, I thought this was a once-off deal with a new sensor - I've not heard of an old sensor having this procedure. It may be snakeoil but as I have it I may as well try Normfest DPF100, it this goes in the top of the DPF once the sensor is removed and may well take some soot from the blow side of the turbo too. I am planning a air, oil and fuel filter swap and oil change this month - I'll check levels tomorrow. I will give the car to the local garage to have the injectors checked professionally, I can get the results off vcds but the figures man nothing to me. I think you have an EGR simulator fitted with an EGR blank? Is this helping? I have a remap with a so-called EGR delete and an EGR blank fitted to the head, however I'm beginning to doubt whether this decision has taken me down a blind alley.

@J.R. My ash residue is showing 59g and 83% at 110k. A friend with DPF issues used Normfest DPF100 and then reset the ash limit to zero - this was some months ago with no ill effects, worth a gamble at £50 a tin? Damned car started a regen again today, started at 22g soot and stopped at 16g calculated, measured is -1g ?? Fuel usage is mental; 25% of the tank in 60 miles, but showing 45mpg - so the fuel must be being used up during regen. I feel I have more deep seated issues than just the DPF; I think I have injector problems (sounds like a tractor during regen and smokes a lot), it knocks at low revs and tickover jumps around a lot starting from cold.

110k miles. Over tickover it runs smoothly, pulls very well and flies - economy isn't great though at about 45mpg average. Pulling from just off tickover in 1st 2nd and 3rd it rattles and knocks badly, in 4th and 5th below 1500rpm it just pulls quietly. Frustrating

Strange thing happened today; the car spontaneously performed a regen at 75%/20g of soot loading and dropped to around 60%/16g and the engine had smoothed out before I had to switch off. Mindful a regen had been interrupted I opened Carista and performed a forced regen for the 10 mile drive home - the regen stopped at around 9 miles, but when I got home I found the soot loading was back to 75%/21g of soot. How can the soot load increase so much in that short drive (over 40mph, over 2k rpm), I also noticed the fuel gauge dropped about 1/8th of a tank in that short time even though consumption was an indicated 45mpg Last regen was 250 miles ago and burnt down from 22g to 6g of soot.

Definitely agree that the pre-facelift has more character ( I have 2 )

I dropped on a friend today who is in the process of modding a T5 to T5.1 spec. For those not into VW Transporters, this involves fitting the front end of a T5 facelift, to an older model. As my 2012 is a Cat C and had good front end damage before being repaired it got me wondering whether anyone fitted the front end of a facelift Yeti to an original ?

I had a similar noise on a Fabia Combi some years ago, mine was due to a disintegrating 'tower rubber stop' on the rear suspension dampers which allowed the hard plastic cover to slide to the bottom of the damper and ratle with every imperfection in the road surface.

Team BHP have some (I think) Indian Yeti owners that use bigger tyre sizes, might be of some use to those looking to do this mod; https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-alloy-wheel-section/93360-skoda-yeti-tyre-wheel-upgrade-thread-35.html

Personally I think on a car forum we should be talking about whether the wheels look good, what tyre sizes fit, do they catch on the arches, what affect on ride quality etc. I can't see any need for the 'topic-killing' insurance comments the same tiresome members feel they need to add to such threads. Play nicely, we are all adults, I think we should take it as read that individuals will discuss any mods they decide to make to their cars with their insurers.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will get the chance for a proper look this weekend. I have noticed that the rubber trim where the A pillar cover meets the edge of the scuttle cover are missing, they look like they have been torn off - I need to look at our other Yeti closely to see if this is significant. I'll take some photos to illustrate. In the meantime I have some Gorilla waterproof tape in situ protecting the bottom of the screen.

No sunroof, it's an S model.

My 2012 1.6tdi Yeti had a windscreen 2 weeks ago, all appeared to go ok, I watched the process and it all went smoothly. Yesterday I vacuumed the car and was gobsmacked to find soaking wet carpets! The water appears to be coming down the offside of the accelerator pedal. I've never had wet carpets before, before I call Autoglass is there anything else that may have been displaced that would cause the leak?

I've tried to fit a set of Caddy wheel centres 2K0 601 149 C to my Yeti steels. The trims won't engage firmly with an encouraging click, I'm sure all 4 would be off before the end of the road. Is there a knack, do I need difference bolts?

I bought a Bosch kit which included belt, tensioners, all fixings and water pump - I used Autodoc, price was nice, delivery 10 days.

Arrived today, £14.50 delivered for a set.