varooom

You might be in luck, but you should really check against your VIN at dealer/TPS as this could be wrong part. Here are the less than useful removal instructions that don't show the coupling, but often they don't anyway. Year 2010/11 all use the same part, 3B0 955 875 A This has image of the part https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3b0955875a-coupling-element-37202.html You may wish to check if the snapped off part is still in the end of the water entry point still, as you won't be able to fit new one. If there, you can probably pick it out, maybe a small self-tapping screw carefully screwed in a little will tease out the snapped off part if still embedded.

Not sure if you managed to sort your issue out yet? It might be 3 to remove. @Warrior193 odds are his will be the 3 digit engine code, they added 4 later on. So could be 3 or 4 on V5

We only need a little more chlorine in the gene pool please

Thanks, I did eventually find this is the way.

Global warming is not fast enough for some people...

This all really boils down to fix/no fix. You could start pricing up bracket and all the mountings you need to replace, and hunt about for cheapest source, the only big cost is ACC calibration, again takes some money for this as it's not a simple process - all 4 wheels need alignment, before you even get to adjustment screws. Then your battery needs inspection, and probably beforehand as higher priority for certain. Choice two is to code out any and all references to ACC, which given how integrated it is into the car needs someone good with VCDS to carefully unpick it all, odds are something is still left behind.

I doubt the stalk is broken, unless Bambi entered the car. Otherwise I have no eye deer what's going on. Did your washer bottle have 2 pump motors on?

Can you get your engine code off your V5?

Well at least you got to the bottom of that now, fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Cheers the mileage will help the experts help. As mentioned, don't take my comments as gospel, best of luck with whatever you decide.

Given your fault occurs each time in the same place, but not elsewhere could be a simple red herring, or could also be some EM interference at home. Maybe it could also have worked fine when you took the car out, as the wires bounced a little and were not shorting for example. Perhaps take it to an empty carpark or some open flat ground. Get 2nd person, to sit in the car with the system activate, then get out yourself to hold up something in front of each sensor at different ranges. Start far away from each sensor, and work closer (take a measuring tape if needed too) to get a rough idea of when they change from amber to red on screen. The person inside the car should be able to communicate when the sensors activate. These are some nice free checks you should be able to do. Fingers crossed.

If you did take it to a dealers, you might pay a fair whack as you can imagine. If you have some DIY skills you might be able to swap over one sensor with another, to see if the fault shifts. If it's a wire, then the screen will show fault in same place, if it's a sensor failing, then it will move over to the new location. The fault is "permanent" right, so happens regularly then that will be good, as intermittant faults are a pain.

@diymenber I don't see any indication of the mileage of your car? Also I would hold off on getting new injectors in a hurry to get back on the road, you may wish to pause. Not to rain on your parade, but you don't generally see 4x injectors go down at one time. This can (IMHO) be caused by some wiring issue, as that could take all 4 down, the next is more scary. If your fuel pump is starting to break down and metal swarf is entering the injectors, then replacing will cure it for hours/days/??? before it happens again. Please don't take my word as gospel, these are just findings I have seen in the past (brain like a sponge) I am just saying don't rush out and spend loads on injectors without perhaps waiting a little on some further advice.

If you contact @Johngerard (from Cork) he maybe able to assist in scanning the car with VCDS, he maybe the closest you have if he is willing to assist in scanning the car. He can bring up any fault codes, and scan live data to view values each sensor is reading. Perhaps you have a broken wire, I myself today had to swap the loom for my rear sensors. If you have exposed wire(s) as mine had, then perhaps when it does rain they get wet and produce errors.

You may wish to update your user profile with so car details, so that it makes things easier. Cannot tell you how to repair what we don't know. I wouldn't waste time with a cheap sensor, as mentioned could be a future fire risk... if it even reads correct. Also as already mentioned the fault code doesn't automatically = dead sensor.

As @StevesTruck has said or the official way is this... On vehicles with diesel engines, the fuel filter and its holder must be removed and placed to the side in order to facilitate an easier access to the bulb for the low beam light on the right headlight (do not detach hoses) ⇒ Engine; Rep. gr. 20 . The cap in the wheelhouse liner can also be removed for better handling. I have had to move airboxes a little to one side, or fuel filter etc, sometimes you have to remove a few pieces.

That seems really cheap I must say.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. So the car was stone cold when it decided to do the fan malarky then, and was essentially locked up also at the time, so does suggest for sure it was no DPF regen (still advice given was good as fans running is often posted on here) Fault lights can go out, as they have set "unlearn" counters depending on what VAG program in, I guess having the car now booked in at main dealer/independant will at least shed some light on the subject. I do wonder if you have someone local with say VCDS that could scan the car for free/beer token money in the meantime if you was looking for answers before then?

Hello Chris, The update the OP had might have been an engine ECU update rather than MIB3 update you are talking about, and as @KenONeill has mentioned they usually have ask before doing additional work, and often papers have to be signed (unless process has changed) With regards to your MIB3 system, the software has been updated since then from 268 -> 270 -> 272 -> 274 -> 276 -> 278 -> 300 -> 302 -> 304 -> 306 kinda tells you a lot about VAG software development, either it's really bad, or they are on the ball depending on your point of view!

Somewhat illegal. There are snippets some will screenshot and share, but not full documents. It's not actually that expensive to purchase 1hr. Edit: Surprised this thread was allowed to stay on the forum.

Yes it's erWin Skoda, best to make an account and grab all the documents you need in a single 1hr payment.

Your profile doesn't mention car details from what I can see. Diesel with DPF that fail the regen cycle can I believe fill engine oil with diesel. If you have petrol, then please ignore above.

A few years back in a little Corsa, coming back Xmas up the A1. Lots of rain, and had to slow down to 50mph and keep it there for most of the way. Lane 1 does tend to get deeper lorry treads of course, but there we many loons blasting down hitting the shed load of mahoosive walls of water on the stretch I was on. People certainly didn't drive to conditions that night.

Not sure if this will help, but this is how I read your timeline of events @De-coded22 I did mention myself in 2nd post that maybe despite your essay, some more information might be required to fill some gaps. I have made what I think is your series of events in order, I hope that this is correct? Friday - Tows caravan, no issues/warning lights Saturday - Parked Sunday - Started car to move it Monday - Parked Tuesday - In the afternoon his cooling fans started on their own accord (Was the car locked at this time?) The fans however were going on AND off in 15 second intervals Is that correct, off AND on? (never known a DPF regen like that!) He THEN tries to start the car as he didn't want to risk flattening his battery, and he also had a run to do (so again ignition was off and the DPF was trying to regen!?!) He also states his "battery" light was on, but we know this to the car telling him about a charging issue He states he was able to drive 36 miles, and during this time, the stop-start worked fine, and the fans settled down, and no temperature issues at this time Wednesday - He starts the car, and check engine was on. He hitches up and leaves the site, engine light is on all this time. Only makes it half a mile and temperature shoots up to 130C and stays there, he checks header tank and it's not hot at all After 30 mins of driving, the temperature gauge goes up and down. He finds the only way to stabilise this is to manually select lower gears in manual mode. Engine light remains on to this day, and throughout his journey. If @De-coded22 you are able to come back and confirm the series of events is as stated, and possible answer the questions that might be useful, plus any new developments that have occured since. There has been a lot of suggested things to try, and some nice free checks you can do also.

You do really need to get the system fixed properly, otherwise you may create an issue elsewhere in the system later on. ODIS is not designed to switch things off, although it probably can adjust some values that might change when the EGR kicks in, as above, you'll just end up with another new fault code elsewhere. So bottom line is get it fixed and then through MOT as needed.