varooom

Do you run the AC all year round? When at work we used to get cars in regularly as the weather warmed up, the mechanics would tell me the rubbers tend to "dry" up a little as they need the oil that circulates in the gas to stop them shrinking. It might be leaking so slowly over time that it's hardly detectable with UV (if dye exists) or leaking where you often don't check. Just my 2 cents, might be worthless information.

It was locked really to keep all the information for SW1896 in single location mainly. Also not sure the admins like duplicate posts as it can be confusing if they get answered in 2 locations. I may have for the location wrong, the actual FEC/SWaP codes I was talking about was not posted in this thread, but there's a big chance the dealer may have missed actually doing the process correctly. If you MMI had it working before it should now, it's down to the dealer to fix, but could be a while before you are able to get it booked in of course.

You should try the reset process that I think someone replied to your locked thread. If that doesn't work then assuming this was a factory fitted option selected when built, the dealers will need to fix. I haven't had chance to look for the thread, but essentially they may have not done the process of contacting the servers to release the FEC/SWAP codes inside your radio.

Um yes I actually agree. Standard key tends to use CR2025 KESSY by standard uses CR2032 I was merely confirming that it is 100%

Yes 0490, on the phone currently. Will send link in a bit.

Was your update OTA or in performed in Dealers? Dealer maybe hasn't applied the release codes perhaps, I am sure there was a thread only the other day about this.

The official part number for the battery is N 104 373 01 aka CR2025 for your car But as we all know well now, CR2032 can be fitted (and indeed was supplied with your key) They are interchangeble, and CR2032 are a tiny bit thicker (hence they are tight fit, but also last longer) For reference N 104 283 01 is the part for CR2032 and specified for KESSY (example from Skoda Superb)

You may have had a fault code that said EGR this that and the other, leading you to replace it. There's a chance the replacement is defective of course, but sometimes what is happening is an issue in another location, that is making trouble elsewhere. What tool was used to adapt the EGR (I think they need a calibration?) Do you have VCDS or something else to get some live diagnostic values if asked later on? Maybe a wiring fault is causing all the random messages also, not saying it is of course.

Hope you caught the leak early enough not to have very wet carpets. They will need drying out for sure if quite soaked.

I appreciate all the replies, this was merely a curiosity of mine, so I have to ask the question or it bugs me! Has value for the future when one day I will probably end up with an EV at some point, and benefits all others that stumble onto this thread. Many thanks to all that have posted in response, your time and answers have been appreciated.

I guess it started here, with you stating 1Z2 adds an extra 10-15ltrs to the standard tank size. When this code is only for an increase in the amount of fuel put in the car only. Given mine has the same code, but also no fuel tank code, you would assume I haven't got one. When I put my car details in ETKA, as you hopefully can see from the image, the 1Z2 code has no correlation and is not how the car determines the tank size fitted. Appreciate how mine is an Octavia compared to a Superb, and how that might confuse some, but I hope you can see in some markets the expected PR codes aren't listed (my tank for example) In local market, you do have a tank specified, be it 66ltrs or 7xltrs for your PR code.

ESP = Electronic Stability Program Monitor various sensors in the car to modulate brakes and such to keep you on the road say if you loose it going into a corner. TC = Traction Control, more about when you accelerate hard and your wheels start to spin. I think this one will reduce engine power and/or apply brakes to keep your wheels from spinning. EDIT: Here are the official VAG wordings/explanations Electronic Stability Programme This system prevents the vehicle from skidding by selectively intervening in the brake and engine management systems. The following abbreviations are used also: - ASMS (Automatic Stability Management System), - DSC (Dynamic Stability Control), - DDC (Driving Dynamic Control), - VSA (Vehicle Stability Assist) and - VSC (Vehicle Stability Control). Traction Control System This system prevents the driven wheels from spinning, e.g. on ice or gravel, by intervening in the brake and engine management systems.

Yeah as mentioned you can pay factory to turn on a feature for XXX amount, but could do the same for free with say VCDS and coding. Somethings also need hardware changes at the factory otherwise they cannot be coded in, as my own experience in retrofitting headlights in the past. I think Joe Public has little idea, and pays to have it added, but with forum knowledge, we can just jump in and code (some items, just not all) For VAG it's about extracting money from your wallet.

Yeah those figures were from 2019 (page linked) so 100% different now. I used the image and then used those values so people could test their calculator skills, people then need to input their own figures for local fuel / electric tariff's and of course own mpg figures. Agreed 100% not sure where the hell they got an average 49mpg, seems like pie in the sky figures! Would love to see if someone has a good site for EV/ICE running cost comparisons, I recon EV wins by a long mile, but that's only my own guess.

I don't think the CPU binning process as applied to PC hardware is the factor/issue. Somethings can be switched on with software as we know, and if the binning process was a thing, then it would be really hit and miss if your hardware worked (so highly unlikely) From experience I went to retrofit Bi-Xenon headlights, and went to code the 09 - Central Electronics, and kept getting a weird "out of range" when trying to code in the change. Did some googling, and turned out the cars that left the factory had a different hardware version/revision of the CEC, once I fitted the new part, it coded in the headlights just fine. Now as to how they actually change internally the CEC from one spec to another, that could be up for a long debate as several choices.

Source: https://www.edfenergy.com/electric-cars/costs In order to assist people who may wish to do their own maths, and input current prices, here is how you calculate. Take your price per kWh from your tariff and divide it by 3.5 (average kW needed to drive 1 mile down the road) Example: 17.2p kWh / 3.5 = 4.91p per mile (change 17.2p to your tariff) Fuel cost per mile is calculated from price of fuel in pence, divided by the average of 49mpg (UK gallon) then multiply by 4.54 as there's 4.54lrs per UK gallon. Example: 134p per litre / 49 mpg average, then multiply the answer by 4.54ltr = 12.42p per mile (change price per litre to reflect current values, and adjust mpg for your car average) p.s. I would love to see some overall cost of running one car vs. the other, meaning what say 12,000 miles a year over 3x years, add in lease costs to get real comparison for my own curiosity. Then compare cost of the EV vs ICE for 3x years.

Just had more time for a little digging on my car So it actually uses the 2x shown PR Codes to determine the tank that is fitted to the car As seen here when I open the group, the part highlighted is fitting my car (part number is changed due to updates) PRCode: 0N1 = Standard rear axle PRCode: 1X0 = Front wheel drive It goes to show you that what we think we know, and how VAG actually determine the actually fitted tank doesn't align with what we think. Markets vary, so odds are some will specify the previous list of PR Codes for fuel tanks.

@CostinVictor25 To my eyes, it looks like the DPF is full, but VCDS won't tell you the maximum values, it varies from technology used/models. The only definitive answer is to use ODIS diagnostic platform on you car (dealer or independant garage only) Your pressure difference measured by sensor seems low, either pipe has blown off, or the actual DPF has collapsed in some manner. The fact you see soot on tailpipe, and it's barely measuring any pressure differential could add value to argument. I am not sure of Romania and it's law on car emissions, but you have to make choice to clean/replace/remove. Cleaning might not give you much more life from it. Removal will increase the soot released to atmosphere, and affect other emissions. Replace will be expensive, unless you can source a lower mileage from scrap yard (hoping the mileage values are not lies)

I have the classic 1Z2 on my PR codes, but no mention of any tank whatsoever! I apparently left factory without one. PR codes.txt

https://youtu.be/FIMi9isDrX0 Try and watch, should be easy enough to follow F40 as mentioned, and 30Amp fuse Can be brought from local motor factor, should be plenty of places to buy.

https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/10403-opening-glove-box-causes-boot-open-warning/ Search for the fault gives a few possible. Use of LED's or a faulty control module in the other instance (VW Golf Mk7)

Yes you should normally find that there are some updates for modules and not for all. Depends on previous version on system as to where the updates need to be.

@numskull For my car, and a lot of the older models there is no microswitch. For your car there is a microswitch to operate the light when glovebox is opened. Sorry for any possible confusion that may have been caused.

AFAIK there has never been a sensor/microswitch added to the glovebox to determine open/closed status. But there is a heck of a lot of wiring/fuses and some control modules behind them. Odds are high one was disturbed and put warning on the dash, a scan might reveal a fault code that you could look into maybe.

@ColinDThanks, makes sense and can see why. The issue with writing a post on a mobile/tablet device seems to happen where it looses the plot. If you cannot recreate the fault I might be able to make a recording at some point if needed. I think it happens when a smiley is added, but need to check and repeat.