JR RS

After disconnecting and putting in a new battery, u'll get a bunch of errors, but all u need to do is drive around for 15 mins n they'll clear. With coding, even if u r replace it with the exact same battery specs, u should still code it in so the car knows u have a new battery, and it will adapt the charging pattern to suit. People usually put in the date as a new serial number, e.g. 22072023.

sounds like something is up with ur seat controller module (#36). it is also used to store the memory position for the outside wing mirrors. given both ur seats and wing mirrors r misbehaving intermittently, i'd look at scanning the car to see if any codes come up. using OBDEleven or VCDS. the earlier revisions of the seat controller modules either need to be updated or replaced. mine was replaced a couple of years ago, under warranty. old:- SW: 5Q0 959 760 B ASAM Dataset: EV_SeatMemorDriveSide 002021 ROD: EV_SeatMemorDriveSide_VW37.rod VCID: 3C76BD8CB708A7A2A0-8068 new: SW: 5Q0 959 760 C ASAM Dataset: EV_SeatMemorDriveSide 002022 ROD: EV_SeatMemorDriveSide.rod VCID: 3D273B8C9DFCF793584-8068

The doors r exactly the same too, including A-pillar, B-pillar and C-pillars. I don't have pics, but the facelift would have the exact same two mounting holes, per door, in the exact same spot. There would b differences between a wagon and liftback, yes, but that's nothing to do with facelift or not.

Between the facelift and pre-facelift models, the roof is exactly the same. The only key differences on the outside r:- - different front headlights, bumper, grille and foglights. - different rear taillights. Nothing else has changed physically/outside.

Don't know about the facelift, but with the pre-facelift u need Version B of the Bi-Xenon headlights to get the eyelashes to work, otherwise don't bother with any coding or apps.

My 245/40/19 tyres would scrape, on full compression at the rear when I had 15mm spacers. Specifically on the inside where the rear bumper fixes to the rear qtr panel. I now have 10mm spacers at the rear. This is on the factory 19x8 ET44 rims. Not sure how u'll go with 9" wide rims and 245 wide tyres.

@Waylon- sorry but I haven't done the facelift taillight retrofit. I'm sporting the fake wannabe version with mine.

I've been using AAWireless dongle on my Superb MY17 for more than 2 yrs now. I have the Columbus MIB2 unit, the one with buttons. The AAWireless is great. No connection issues or dropouts. Response is great, and so is the audio quality. Very convenient to use. Highly recommended.

Just an average shot....

U mean the Performance Monitor? No I haven't. It needs a SWaP code to activate.

Gave Gandalf a much need wash today after 4 months!!!

Good to hear u sorted it. Wat did u do? Did u have to use FEC codes?

Sorry, but that alignment looks wrong.....in my opinion. Tis ur car though, so how u want it is all that matters for u. Higher up, like how I've done it, is the same alignment done with the Sportline badge. It also sits/blends nicely within the crease folds/contours.

here in Oz, we either get a Sportline 206TSi AWD, or a non-Sportline 206TSi / 162TSi / 140TDi. we don't have the numerous variants like u guys do in Europe. mine is non-Sportline 162 TSi, however it has a mix of trims from L&K as well as Sportline. but i'm not going to stick Sportline or L&K badges on it, because it ain't one. Just like how i wouldn't stick vRS badge because it ain't one, but plenty do. people who know wat a Superb is, can't figure out wat Superb i have - so they're having to do a double-take, or get a closer look to understand wat they're looking at. hahaha. in fact, most people here don't even know what a Superb is, let alone a Skoda. i'm happy with my frankenstein personalised Superb.

@numskull, @dunc69, @lmb, @Lutz_91 - u guys would hate my Gandalf big time as I've gone to town with the Superb badging!!! Can't have too many reminders of wat model Skoda I have! Hehehe.....ok maybe I have too many. 😛 Fender... Door sill..... Steering wheel..... Door puddle lights...... Boot lid Lower grille..... Air intake.....

agreed - which is why i wasn't worried about it. then again, please don't take my word for it as i updated from MU 0942, whilst ur on MU 0318, which u picked up earlier.

@Spakainz - MIBHelper said the same thing for me - "Bose sound package might require parameterziation after update." no change in sound quality after the update. the Columbus is however quicker to load things, it feels a lot more responsive.

I recently upgraded my MIB2 Columbus unit from MHI2_ER_SKG11_P3325_0942 to MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343_1433 successfully. I have the Canton too, and it did not require parameterization. I made a how-to guide if u need one. Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

That centre cluster image of doors open looks like nothing I've seen in a mk3 Superb before!!

It's a different design, although same technology. Superb 3 has an L-shaped DRL Octavia 3 has a single line DRL

Oh dear - that's a levelling sensor used by the DCC suspension system and the headlights for aim. U need to get that replaced.

Thanks to the helpful tips above - today I managed to remove the 3 piece switch panel. Using trim tool No. 4 shown in the pic below, it was easy to remove the whole black trim piece. Lifted No.3 up and over the gear shifter. From underneath, pushed up switch panels No.1. Then using trim tool No.4, pulled up trim piece No.5. Didn't need to use much force. Removed the button and cleaned it with alcohol wipes, and a gave it a nice clean with an air gun. Will c how the switch behaves now. Saved myself $470 AUD that the dealer refused to fix whilst under warranty and then wanted to charge me after warranty finished. Interestingly, after plugging it back, there was fault with the Parking Brake Switch. Had to start the car, disengage the park brake, then engage the park brake before it stopped complaining. Cleared all the codes after using OBDEleven, just to b sure. It's all good now.

Thanks, will give it a go soon, once I've got the replacement switch panel.

My Lock switch, which is one of the 3 switches in that group gets "sticky" during the cold winter months. Skoda wanted $450 AUD to replace it!!! I can source it for much cheaper, but I haven't figure out how to get to it. I can remove the switch panels on each side of the gear shifter, and the gear shifter leather cover, but then I'm stuck. Going to have to put my head down and focus.....

@Colin170CR, highly doubt a VAG Independent will do it, as @varooom stated above. If u follow my guide, the process is straightforward to do.