JR RS

The 7 speed DSG (DQ381 Wet) on the 280/272 is a different gearbox to the 7-speed DSG (DQ200 Dry) found on the lower spec less powerful engines. The problem one was the DQ200.

Yes, get a dongle like AAWireless or a Motorola MA1 dongle. It allows ur phone to work wirelessly with ur headunit. The dongle remains plugged to ur USB port. Ur phone then simply connects to it wirelessly each time u drive. I've been using AAWireless for almost 2 yrs now and it's been great, convenient and issue free.

It's sits higher due to the 30mm difference, and there is a slight bend in the boot floor mat as a result. To compensate, I put a 20mm acoustic sound absorbing foam around it. As a result, it sits flat again now.

+1 for Lava Blue here in Australia too. Tis been like that for a while now.

"What have you done to your Superb III"......or so I thought Pg 128 would b about.....eesshhh.

Lol, that is totally not the case!! I'm not sure how u r getting ur "wires crossed"!!! I've hard wired my dashcam to the fuse box, and it was very simple and straightforward - down the A-pillar and into the fuse box behind the glove box. The hardest part was putting the A-pillar piece back in its place. The first time I wired it to a switched fuse location, #47 I then changed it to a permanent power source because I put a power magic pro. Fuse box...... Grounding.... Wiring in the A-pillar...

Crikey....that's two 2017 Superbs here in Oz with faded yellow DRLs!! Mine is a 2017 model too, but it's still behaving..... touchwood. In fact, I retrofitted even older headlights in mine, one manufactured in 2015 and the other in 2016 - because I retrofitted SLA headlights.

Yes it will throw an error if there's a problem, but then it will b obvious with the actual lights not working, or flickering. In ur case, the yellowness - it is not a symptom of a faulty module, at least I doubt it.

It's a common problem with 280/272 models unfortunately. Being AWD, the fuel tank is "split in two", which in turn doesn't vent properly, causing this issue.

Yes u can, via the Infotainment, under Opening & Closing settings......

With mine - I can see the beam pattern change after I come to a stop. I can see it on the rear bumper of the car in front. Usually about 2-3 secs after I've come to a complete stop. Mine being a RHD, it's the right headlight (driver's side) that changes pattern by moving the beam slightly inwards, after stopping. I haven't noticed the left beam change/move.

It's the same behavior with the mk3. It does all those things with AFS2, plus more if u have SLA headlights which does matrix like masking using MDF tech. Explanation in this video... https://youtu.be/2kFSuBWGCuY Yes it does. It's called AFS2 lighting.

Yup, that's crap headlight alignment. This is how mine looks... https://youtu.be/fkRcEJIVlJU

Awesome work @IgorDeLuxe u've certainly refreshed the interior of ur MY16 Superb!!

There 3 modules on each headlight - 2x drivers and 1x ballast. U could try replacing each of the drivers, but it will b trial and error as to which one, and likely an expensive exercise. They might also need coding and/or parameterization. Based on my SLA headlight retrofit, I would look at the modules (LED driver) with part number 8U0941329, assuming u have the Version A headlights. If u have Version B, then it's 4H0941329.

Discoloured LEDs, even Xenons r not caused by the AFS Slave modules (driver) or ballast. If it's a faulty driver - the LEDs will stop working altogether, or it will flicker, misbehave.

As far as I know, u can't replace or fix the DRL illumination separately. It's literally part of the headlight assembly, and can't accessed unless u open up the headlight unit.

I would recommend u post this question in the Superb mk2 forum.

thank u i already have a black rear spoiler, as per the pics - however mine is not the original sportline version. i got this one from AliExpress. regarding black mirror caps - i won't b changing mine as i prefer the body-coloured version. it goes with my theme of grey-black-chrome

@Superb01- reliability should b fine given the DQ250 can handle up to 600Nm with software tuning alone, by dealing with clutch pressure points and shift algorithms. Above 600 then u need to upgrade the clutch. The torque values were higher than I expected. Not sure if it's because of the Hi-torque tune combined with the DSG tune. No, sadly I don't have times apart for the 0-100 and 80-120 4th gear test. Being a FWD, traction off the line is no good with that much power. Best time was 5.9 sec. The best time for the 80-120 was 3.10 secs. Happy with this.

This is my 220 MY17 Superb with an APR Stage 1 Hi-torque tune, and an APR DSG tune. Did 3x runs, each run produced similar results - 220kW (300hp) 530Nm. Outside air temp was 20°c. U can see in the graph that the small IS20 running out of puff after approx 4800 rpm. The IAT gets higher each time too, making the ECU limit power after a while.

My 6 yr old MY17 has no squeaks creaks or groan around the dash, or anywhere else. Although recently, the rear parcel shelf is starting to creak when taking bumpy corners.

Wow......that's a lot happening to ur car!!! How effective is the soft close door addition?

@DomVH- hard to tell if the pothole hit has done something. Best is to get the car scanned to b sure of wat is going on. I got myself a CTEK Battery Sense monitor. Connects directly to ur car battery and u can monitor (via Bluetooth) it live using an app on ur phone. More for peace of mind as my battery is 3 yrs old now.

Yes u can. U'll need to upgrade ur MIB2 infotainment unit (headunit + screen) to the MIB2.5 unit. Then u can get the Virtual Cockpit dash. U'll also need to remove component protection.