JR RS

Yup, the power delivery is early and then drops off courtesy of the small turbo, and to an extent, the factory intercooler. The small turbo generates too much heat too early, in turn the intercooler isn't up to the job, thus increasing the intake air temps (IAT). The ECU sees this and reduce boots, power drops. The outside ambient air temp was 20 deg Celsius when we did the runs. The IATs were getting hotter after each run. Not surprised. I wasn't expecting it to hold steady all through the rev band. A bigger turbo will help to prolong that power delivery. Likewise a larger intercooler will also aid in sustaining the power band longer. My next move is to get a larger intercooler, but I'll b looking at doing that towards the end of our winter.

I've watched lots of factory build videos, and in all of them almost every single place gets painted. Even in the engine bay, the robot lifts up the bonnet, and the engine bay gets a lick of paint. U can see it in this video for the facelift Superb, from about 2:18 mark Same with other Skoda models. Same with other brands/manufacturers

i recently put my Superb 220 on a dyno run, as i curious to see how much power it was making with an APR Stg 1 ECU tune and APR DSG tune. 3x runs, each time doing approx. 222 kW (299 hp) & 532 Nm (393 ft lbs), at the wheel. one of the runs...... Pretty happy with those numbers, given its mostly software. power is bang on as expected, based on APR's claims. torque is more than i expected. i was expecting between 490 to 500 Nm. as u said, for a FWD - 0-60 times r nonsense!! prior to getting the DSG tune done on mine, the 80-120 km/h time dropped from 5.8 to 3.4 secs, with the Stage 1 tune.

that is certainly strange. the engine bay should b the same as the body colour as that is how it gets painted by the dancing robots!! yes, even the hinges should b body coloured!!! not a great shot of mine, but u can make out the engine bits, apart from the plastic bits, r not black.....

For the pre-facelift Superb, sadly there is no LED option. Only the facelift version comes with proper LED headlights. U could replace ur xenon bulbs with LED bulbs, but I would not recommend it as they require massive heat sinks or fans and get very hot. U won't b able to put the headlight cover at the back on, meaning it's no longer sealed, allowing dirt & water to get inside the unit. I got my Phillips XtremeVisions from Powerbulbs. Awesome company to deal with. Lots of sales/deals. Fast shipping. Highly recommended.

Sounds like u need to replace ur xenon bulbs because a Superb with well aligned beams and good bulbs is great. If u do upgrade ur xenons - get Osram Xenarcs or Phillips XtremeVisions. I upgraded mine to XtremeVision Gen2 many many years ago and they're brilliant. U can see footage of it here.

I believe u need to remove the door card and unclip it from the inside.

the DTR6054 is drop in turbo that is easy to transition from an IS20. works with the existing factory components, including factory intercooler if desired and reuses factory wastegate and diverter valve. although, to make the most of the turbo, an upgraded intercooler, intake and TCU tune is recommended. i just need to upgrade my intercooler as i've already done the others. comes with the stage 3 software, which also has the optional FWD file that will limit wheel spin by limiting how torque hits. i had a conversation with the APR tuner here, and they say that it is perfect for my setup.

That's a standard AFS thing for all Bi-Xenon headlights - up down left right calibration checking, at each startup, of the headlight motors. If u had version B headlights (by the way, Skoda calls it SLA, not DLA), in addition to startup dance, it tests the rollers and makes a U-shape. See video.... https://youtu.be/Yu1Hpecfv10

Ur camera looks right. Headlights, as mentioned by @Lutz_91, we can't see the actual part number. It should look like this.....

@SomethingSuperbly- i have the pro version of OBDEleven. I never use the app credits, never will. Adaptations and long codings only for me, that way I know exactly wat is being done at every step.

Now, let me consider the options here..... 1. Drop the gearbox into 1st so I can engine brake whilst moving, to come to a stop Or 2. Leave the gearbox in 2nd and use the brakes to come to a stop, and let the gearbox automatically drop into 1st when it's ready. I know which one I'll b doing as I'd much prefer to replace brake pads & rotors, rather than having the mechatronics replaced.

For those who want to know how to do the coding after changing the battery, using OBDEleven or VCDS, follow the instructions in the link below. It's very important to set the Rated Battery Capacity and the Battery Technology type. For AGM batteries, make sure u select "Fleece". https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/4252/coding-new-battery I've got an EFB+ battery, so mine is set accordingly.

+1 for the perforated leather. It is a little bit more nicer to look at, plus it matches the perforated leather seats.

no IS38 on the horizon for me, instead i'll b going for APR's DTR6054 turbo but first i need the bigger APR intercooler.

Video of one of the runs.... https://youtu.be/N7ljdj-QZQA

Ah I c wat u mean. The problem is that the intake air temp (IAT) would get too high, and then the ECU would pull back and cut the power - that's why ur seeing the rapid death!! Problem is the small IS20 turbo gets too hot too quickly and the stock intercooler can't cool it quick enough. Bigger turbo will generate less heat too early, enabling the engine to pull for longer and die so quickly. Upgraded intercooler will aid in keeping those high temps down.

Yes not me doing it - it is the guy who owns the dyno machine, who does countless Golfs (GTi, R) and Audis (RS, S, Q). i reckon he knows a thing or two about what he is doing.

i think the blower speed was in between - wasn't a breeze nor was it gale force. Yeah, i'm pleasantly surprised with the nice high torque figures, then again, i do have the "Hi-torque" APR Stage 1 tune (as shown in the graph), and coupled with the APR DSG tune, its allowing Gandalf to produce that much power.

I put Gandalf on the Dyno as I was curious to see how much power it was actually making with the APR Stg 1 ECU tune and DSG tune. I'm happy with the results. The torque was higher than I expected. Outside Air temp was 20 degrees. Did 3x runs. Each time it did approx. 220 kw and 530 Nm. Being the stock IS20 turbo and intercooler, the Intake Air Temps (IAT) was getting too high, making the ECU reduce power towards the end, as u can see in the graph. A larger intercooler will help vastly with sustaining the power curve for much longer. Tis next on the cards. Max: 222.7 kW / 532.3 Nm

I put Gandalf on the Dyno today as I was curious to see how much power it was actually making with the APR Stg 1 ECU tune and DSG tune. I'm happy with the results. The torque was shigher than I expected. Outside Air temp was 20 degrees. Did 3x runs. Each time it did approx. 220 kw and 530 Nm. Being the stock IS20 turbo and intercooler, the Intake Air Temps (IAT) was getting too high, making the ECU reduce power towards the end, as u can see in the graph. A larger intercooler will help vastly with sustaining the power curve for much longer. Tis next on the cards. Max: 222.7 kW / 532.3 Nm

Provided u get the same before and after "specs" then no. i.e. if u went from round with paddles to flat-bottomed with paddles Or If u went from round heated to flat-bottomed heated. However, if u went from round non-heated to flat-bottomed heated, then u'll need to change the steering clock-spring and do coding.

I have an MY17 - I can open and close the boot with the key fob. It won't work if I'm inside the car and use the key fob. I need to b at least 3 m or less away from the car for it to work.

I notice the the facelift is using different ACC hardware/software. I've got this on my pre-facelift MY17..... 13 Adaptive Cruise Control System description: ACC BOSCH MQB Software number: 3Q0907572C Software version: 0195 Hardware number: 3Q0907572C Hardware version: H04 ODX name: EV_ACCBOSCHVW48X ODX version: 001009 Long coding: 320147C355FFC428949C8045 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found

+1 i often drive in Manual mode, and i've never had to downshift into 1st. i'll drop down to 2nd, and when i'm almost at a standstill, the car will automatically drop it down to 1st, seamlessly.