JR RS

I did not replace any modules. This involves just software - using a different dataset of parameters. A person I know has the special ODIS and VCP tools which enables him to update the software revisions, and load parameter datasets. For this, the dataset used for the Arteon & Passat was loaded into the Gateway & DCC modules. So not only do u get the DCC Slider (15 levels), u also get a much better/effective suspension mapping, resulting in a much much better ride. U definitely feel the difference - it's no placebo effect. The car feels more composed. It has completely eliminated the remaining bounce effect. The suspension settles much faster. No more body roll. Really pleased with it 👍🏽 An alternative that I've recently seen on the market is APR's SCU tune, however that replaces the existing DCC module with their own, and it costs 100x the amount I paid for the DCC Slider mod. https://www.goapr.com/products/suspension/suspension_controller/

That's correct. They shouldn't, and normally don't use the inner jack points for 4 post hoists because it's less visible, and the rear ones r behind a plastic cover/lid and almost recessed. All the different garages I've taken my car too - they've always used the jack points on the sills.

Yes, the inner jack points r for the axle stands. I've used it plenty of times. This is the fronts.... With wheel arch liner removed - u can see the "strengthening" behind it, into the chassis.

I've finally jumped on the DCC Slider mod bandwagon. The new DCC maps give the car a much more composed ride. We didn't have to do the DCC recalibration as I had already done that a while ago. While there, I also got the 60 Sec Lane keeping tweak. Tis good not having to touch the steering wheel every 12 secs 🙂 The DCC slider mod requires the Gateway module to b updated and loaded with the appropriate maps, including updating the DCC module software update. The 60 Sec Lane requires a software update on the A5 (camera) module.

Mine is not bent, rather the thick rubbery paint located there has been squished and shifted. Happens each time a jack lifts it. Not sure how u would strength them, if u needed to.

These r my AAWireless settings.....

No, nothing special config wise. Only thing I've changed is the shut off timeout (WiFi Settings) and Start-Stop settings. My AAWireless device has been really good - no issues whatsoever.

If it's factory fitted, then it is usually an additional data port. Handy to have. Mine doesn't have it under the armrest, but I plan to retrofit it one day. It's requires a USB splitter/hub module, additional wiring and the USB port itself. I have an AAWireless device, and it sits perfectly above the USB port in the front, next to the phone box. I can even close the cover to keep it out of sight.

I think @ApertureS might have the parameter file for module 55-Headlights.

Look in ur infotainment screen for available media sources - if u both USB1 and USB2 options, then the one in ur armrest is the data port version. Otherwise it will b just a charging port.

Jack lift goes on the sills, close to the edge. Green arrows in the pic above. Jack stands goes on the jacking points further inwards. Red arrows in the pic above.

I've done the throttle response mode, and it made a nice difference. I didn't do the Audi mode cause I've heard good n bad about it - I didn't want to fall in the bad n prefer my car to think it's still a Skoda, not an Audi.

i'm glad i retrofitted the direct tpms (with sensors inside each wheel) as it is nice to b able to c the tyre pressures live at any time, without having to take the tyre gauge out n checking it monthly.

I've had three punctures thus far in the first 3 yrs of ownership - each time I had to put the 16" spare on, and each time the ACC would get disabled. I've since got myself a full size 19" spare. ....and now that I have, I haven't had any punctures since!!!! 🤣

ur overthinking this. the Kopacek site list the part numbers for each of the items sold. u can compare these with the factory part number using online parts catalogue finder, and u'll b able to tell if they're OEM or modified. the links u gave above for the kopacek parts even say "genuine Skoda Auto,a.s. product" not sure how much more assurance u want. i bought the black grille frame surround from kopacek. part number is 3V0853761-F9R. if u search for OEM black grille surround for Sportline models - u get the same part number.

The stuff from Kopacek r pretty much OEM, so the quality and fitment will b perfect. I removed the factory chrome grille frame surround and replaced it with the black Sportline frame. It was perfect fit on the original grille. The box/packaging is OEM, as per my pics above. U have nothing to worry about with Kopacek parts. I've been buying stuff from them over the past 10 yrs.

i'm not sure about the speedo to KM, but the Xenon headlights will automatically switch into Tourist/Travel mode, based on your navigation GPS. if it doesn't automatically switch, u can change the Travel Mode settings under the Light Settings menu in the Infotainment.

this is my go to for Superb coding -

Damn....$2k-ish for a new unit!! I would buy a 2nd hand unit, locally or from overseas. I sourced mine from overseas. I sold my originals for dirt cheap a few years ago.

The 272 engine is the GPF flavored version. This came later to meet Euro6 standards. The 280 is the non-GPF version. The 220/280 come with the DSG-6 (DQ250) gearbox. Newer ones come with the DSG-7 (DQ381) gearbox. The 272 generally comes with DSG-7 (DQ381).

Mine r not real - i improvised with door edge strip protection. It's an L-shaped plastic adhesive, with a chrome finish, sourced from AliExpress. Hence no drilling or screwing. They've been on for 3+ years now and still solid, with no signs of wear. I used the same with side door protectors, to give the L&K touch.

High version Both inner and outer lights r illuminated. Chrome caps. Low version Only outer tail light is illuminated. No Chrome caps.

That's incorrect - there r different versions. High & Low versions. There was a thread about it yonks ago - will find it. U can tell by the inside chrome caps for each bulb, as well as if the inner lights light up or not.

I would take the Arteon any day.....

+1 I'm not comfortable putting an aftermarket LED bulb, inside a headlight unit not designed for the heat it generates. To top it off, to then seal the headlight with the headlight cover, thus not allowing the LED fan to expel the generated heat!! No thanks. For short drives, it won't b an issue. However for long drives, it won't b good. I occasionally do long drives (2-3 hrs) at night - i don't want my headlight units internals to melt, or worse case - catch fire!! I'm happy with the upgraded Phillips XtremeVision Gen2 D3S xenon bulbs I've put in mine. https://youtu.be/fkRcEJIVlJU