JR RS

As @MarkyG82 mentioned - a good quality sensible spacer will not cause any issues. I've had spacers on my previous mk2 Octavia RS, and my current mk3 Superb 220. I had 12mm hubcentric spacers on the RS for 6 yrs - not a single suspension/bearing issue. No premature tyre wear - I went through 2 sets of tyres in that 6 yrs, each set lasting me 60,000km plus. For 3 yrs plus now, I have 15mm/10mm (fr/rr) hubcentric spacers on my Superb. Again, suspension/bearings r good. I just changed my factory tyres after doing 52,000kms. They still had a another 2-3 mm or so of thread. Having said that - spacers r not "legal for road/street use" in most countries. Most insurers will say no deal. A lot of spacers r installed incorrectly, or people cheap out on quality. A lot of people get incorrect bolts, causing damage when they snap/break. A lot of people get spacers which r not hubcentric - this will cause bad vibrations n lead to suspension failure and damage the bearings. A lot of people get spacers with the incorrect bore size - again causing suspension & bearing failures. Cheap spacers will crack.

i don't mean to spoil the Bilstein party, but from a dyno test done by DSC Sport, they found the Bilsteins Damptronics are only able to control the rebound, while the factory DCC shocks are able to control both compression and rebound with their valving. The test was done on the Bilstein Damptronic B16's (part number 49-255874). This means the Bilstein Damptronics are a less capable setup when looking at compression adjustment, but still happen to have slightly greater rebound range. Basically the only benefits to the Damptronics are adjustable spring perches to change ride height and stiffer springs. They are not beneficial when looking at the "active" functionalities of the shock. This is due to the valve used in this specific shock, however in other Bilstein kits tested, like the Porsche Kit, the valve is different and was able to control both rebound and compression.

DCC Suspension is 10mm lower than Standard suspension. The car does not alter height based on the DCC setting (Comfort/Normal/Sport) It doesn't raise or lower. The height is fixed. Likewise with Standard Suspension. Likewise with Sports Suspension.

open ur driver's door and look on the bottom of the B-pillar......the build plate sticker will tell u wat the engine model/variant is. in my case, with a 162/220 - its CHHB. or look for the build sticker in the boot, it will tell u this plus a lot more. in ur case, any performance parts for the mk7 Golf R is suited to the Superb 206/280.

highly unlikely its caused by the DSG. the DSG, in its stock form, is more than capable in handling Stage 1 ECU tuning. something is wrong with the ECU map being loaded into ur car. Plenty have tuned their 206/280 Superb with no issues.

U don't need the wheels off. Just look from behind the wheel. Use the phone camera to see wat is going on. Front right level sensor Front left level sensor Rear sensor

Brilliant!! Enjoy ur whiskers....or eye lashes 😁

Yes, that is the manual workaround I did the same until the software fix was applied during a regular car service. The software fix adds a delay to the headlight startup dance, so when the engine fires, it doesn't interrupt the completion of the headlight startup sequence. Below is the service print out of the software fix (warranty recall) carried out - 94K1.

Finally got Gandalf tinted this morning!! Front windows with UltraGard nano+ceramic 42% VLT. Rear side and boot windows with clear tint 75% VLT. Happy with results. Just in time for summer!

VCDS or OBDEleven won't tell u ur headlight part number. Pop the bonnet, and look for the white sticker on top of the headlight. Looks like this.... This one is my original, non-SLA "A" version, before I retrofitted SLA "B" versions.

Don't bother. Get urself a better performing D3S globe, with better lumens/kelvins. Like Phillips XtremeVisions or Osram Night Breakers. I put the Gen2 XtremeVisions in mine - brilliant performance in dry/wet weather conditions.

If there is a fault somewhere - the lights will, as a safety thing, point straight down. Usually, a faulty AFS slave module causes this. Check if there r any error codes? Does ur headlight do the startup dance? i.e. down, left, right, up. If the above r good, then u likely need to get them realigned at a garage. There is a software fix for the headlights - to fix the issue where one of the headlights doesn't return to it's normal up position after the dance, because the car's startup sequence interrupts the headlights electronics. The software fix adds a time delay.

Do u have the correct type of headlights? i.e. the part number ends in "B". 3Vx94101xB If so, then the coding below is wat I did on mine.

No it's not slow. No it's not as fast as a human resting his/her finger on the stalk. Yes, it does drop when it sees street lights - u can see that at the end of the video clip. I don't know if u can override it. I've never had the need to as it's always performed well for me. I have never been flashed in the almost 3 yrs since I retrofitted it.

As @langers2kmentioned, u need different headlights - Smart Light Assist (SLA) versions. Skoda's equivalent of DLA on the mk3 Superb, that uses bi-xenons with rollers and shutters to do the masking and shaping of the high beam. visually, they look exactly the same. the only tell take sign is the whiskers or eye lashes light up on the SLA versions. I've did the retrofit a few years ago. U can read about it here. Essentially u need different headlights (part number ends in B), different AFS slave modules (x2), new D3S globe holders (x2), and different dataset parameter file for the 4B module. A video of the SLA in action on my car. https://youtu.be/v3BgUfsupkM

The PR code on mine (factory DCC with 19s) is L06. "L06: Suspension range 06 installation control only, no requirement forecast" Other relevant PR codes:- G04: Shock absorption in front 1JP: Rear shock absorption V30: Alloy wheels 8J x 19

Ah, I c. Sorry, I didn't mean to b rude. It just didn't make sense initially. Yes, i believe u'll need Android 11 for the phone to natively pair wirelessly with the MIB3, that supports wireless.

Not sure wat ur implying here, but I'm using AAWireless with my phone running Android 11.

Won't fit ur non-AWD Superb. Return it and get the GTi version.

damn....so the facelift Superb doesn't get an AUX jack either?!??! MIB3 is for the most part buggy. No CD-drive No SD-Card No AUX jack wowsers....Skoda has gone backwards with connectivity options!!

setting the ACC to sport is more about how quickly it gets to the set cruise control speed. its nothing to do with how late it brakes. there is a different setting for this in the assist menus. when set to ECO, the car (ACC) will take a lifetime to resume to the set speed. it will also start slowing down necessarily way too early despite the car ahead being far away. its annoying, especially on freeways.

+1 for me too. Prior to getting Eibach Prokit springs, I was always in Individual mode with the settings below, similar to urs @MartiniB. After I got the Eibach springs, I was in Normal mode most of the time, except when I was tackling a very bumpy road, or lots of speed bumps. After I got the DCC recalibration done, I'm always in Normal mode now. I rarely put the car in Sport mode unless I'm tackling windy twisty roads.

Open ur fuel flap cover - it clearly shows wat rim sizes the car can come with from factory. Show them that.....

Auto close with rain won't work unless u have a particular rain/light recognition sensor module fitted, which is sadly not the case for the mk3 Superb. My mk2 Octavia RS had it, and it was such a handy feature. The mk3 Superb gets the RLHS version. It's also not just a Superb or Skoda thing, it's across the VWAG. U need the RLFSS version, which supports rain closing. Some of the earlier MY15 & MY16 mk3 Superbs were fitted with the RLFSS version. Those can enable Auto close. U could retrofit the RLFSS sensor version, but its a big job and the sensor holder is a different shape to the RLHS sensor.

Does ur CD player have an AUX out? If so, plug it into the car's AUX-in port uses jack cables. Otherwise ur only option, as it's been already mentioned - is to rip it CDs onto a USB flash drive and then transfer it to the car's jukebox. Or just play it directly from the flash drive.