JR RS

ah, that's good. i didn't realise they had damptronic versions of the B4. i'll just go sit in the corner now. fingers crossed ur shocks get sorted.

i just had a closer look on the Bilstein B4 - these r NOT damptronic shocks, hence why ur feeling no difference when u switch modes!! the B4 r standard OEM replacement shocks. "Bilstein B4 - These are classed as a replacement damper. A few B4 variations exist depending on the vehicle application but these are all intended to replace the standard shocks fitted when the car was new." u can read about the different types here. if u had DCC shocks, then u should've got the B16 DampTronic version. if u had standard shocks, then the B4 is the right replacement.

Bugger, sorry to hear that. That pretty **** poor for them to say that the only way to b sure is to remove the shocks and send it to them to test!! Either the Bilstein's valve electrics r not understanding the car's DCC signals.... Or ......the Bilstein's valve electrics r just a gimmick. There is a massive effect (not placebo) between Comfort and Sport modes with the DCC shocks, even with lowered springs. I'd expect the same with the Bilstein Damptronics - it's the whole reason why u buy the more expensive Damptronics version so u can still retain that comfort control.

That is very strange @cardo. Wat is the part number on ur headlights? Does ur car have factory Bi-xenons? I believe cars without Bi-xenons only have the rear sensor.

Click on that orange triangle with the exclamation mark - it will tell u exactly wat is wrong.

It's totally fair. The comparison is between factory DCC vs Bilstein Damptronics. The Golf R uses the same DCC shocks as the Superb, if fitted. The mapping (parameters) will vary on the Golf R to b more performance orientated, compared to the Superb, but it's essentially the same. The springs paired to the DCC shocks on a Golf will also b more performance orientated compared to the springs paired to the DCC shocks on the Superb - but this test does not include the springs. It's purely on the shocks.

My previous MY11 mk2 Octavia RS 147TSi also had a timing chain. It had an EA888 Gen2. They've using chains for ages now!

I've got Bloxsport at the front, and H&R Trak+ DR series at the rear. Fronts with 15mm.... Rears with 10mm....

Strange....because the coding I have is the same as @Gizmo. In fact, i got the code from the Tried & Tested page that Gizmo created. Not sure why u can't see the same channels.

Fair enough, but earlier u asked for springs "that go down 1.5-2 CMS"..... The Eibach Prokit drops the car 2cms. Also, my car as Rieger side skirts and front splitter, making it look even more lower.

This is my 220 lowered on Eibach Prokit (FWD sedan version). Mine dropped 20mm as I have DCC.

As @MarkyG82 mentioned - a good quality sensible spacer will not cause any issues. I've had spacers on my previous mk2 Octavia RS, and my current mk3 Superb 220. I had 12mm hubcentric spacers on the RS for 6 yrs - not a single suspension/bearing issue. No premature tyre wear - I went through 2 sets of tyres in that 6 yrs, each set lasting me 60,000km plus. For 3 yrs plus now, I have 15mm/10mm (fr/rr) hubcentric spacers on my Superb. Again, suspension/bearings r good. I just changed my factory tyres after doing 52,000kms. They still had a another 2-3 mm or so of thread. Having said that - spacers r not "legal for road/street use" in most countries. Most insurers will say no deal. A lot of spacers r installed incorrectly, or people cheap out on quality. A lot of people get incorrect bolts, causing damage when they snap/break. A lot of people get spacers which r not hubcentric - this will cause bad vibrations n lead to suspension failure and damage the bearings. A lot of people get spacers with the incorrect bore size - again causing suspension & bearing failures. Cheap spacers will crack.

i don't mean to spoil the Bilstein party, but from a dyno test done by DSC Sport, they found the Bilsteins Damptronics are only able to control the rebound, while the factory DCC shocks are able to control both compression and rebound with their valving. The test was done on the Bilstein Damptronic B16's (part number 49-255874). This means the Bilstein Damptronics are a less capable setup when looking at compression adjustment, but still happen to have slightly greater rebound range. Basically the only benefits to the Damptronics are adjustable spring perches to change ride height and stiffer springs. They are not beneficial when looking at the "active" functionalities of the shock. This is due to the valve used in this specific shock, however in other Bilstein kits tested, like the Porsche Kit, the valve is different and was able to control both rebound and compression.

DCC Suspension is 10mm lower than Standard suspension. The car does not alter height based on the DCC setting (Comfort/Normal/Sport) It doesn't raise or lower. The height is fixed. Likewise with Standard Suspension. Likewise with Sports Suspension.

open ur driver's door and look on the bottom of the B-pillar......the build plate sticker will tell u wat the engine model/variant is. in my case, with a 162/220 - its CHHB. or look for the build sticker in the boot, it will tell u this plus a lot more. in ur case, any performance parts for the mk7 Golf R is suited to the Superb 206/280.

highly unlikely its caused by the DSG. the DSG, in its stock form, is more than capable in handling Stage 1 ECU tuning. something is wrong with the ECU map being loaded into ur car. Plenty have tuned their 206/280 Superb with no issues.

U don't need the wheels off. Just look from behind the wheel. Use the phone camera to see wat is going on. Front right level sensor Front left level sensor Rear sensor

Brilliant!! Enjoy ur whiskers....or eye lashes 😁

Yes, that is the manual workaround I did the same until the software fix was applied during a regular car service. The software fix adds a delay to the headlight startup dance, so when the engine fires, it doesn't interrupt the completion of the headlight startup sequence. Below is the service print out of the software fix (warranty recall) carried out - 94K1.

Finally got Gandalf tinted this morning!! Front windows with UltraGard nano+ceramic 42% VLT. Rear side and boot windows with clear tint 75% VLT. Happy with results. Just in time for summer!

VCDS or OBDEleven won't tell u ur headlight part number. Pop the bonnet, and look for the white sticker on top of the headlight. Looks like this.... This one is my original, non-SLA "A" version, before I retrofitted SLA "B" versions.

Don't bother. Get urself a better performing D3S globe, with better lumens/kelvins. Like Phillips XtremeVisions or Osram Night Breakers. I put the Gen2 XtremeVisions in mine - brilliant performance in dry/wet weather conditions.

If there is a fault somewhere - the lights will, as a safety thing, point straight down. Usually, a faulty AFS slave module causes this. Check if there r any error codes? Does ur headlight do the startup dance? i.e. down, left, right, up. If the above r good, then u likely need to get them realigned at a garage. There is a software fix for the headlights - to fix the issue where one of the headlights doesn't return to it's normal up position after the dance, because the car's startup sequence interrupts the headlights electronics. The software fix adds a time delay.

Do u have the correct type of headlights? i.e. the part number ends in "B". 3Vx94101xB If so, then the coding below is wat I did on mine.

No it's not slow. No it's not as fast as a human resting his/her finger on the stalk. Yes, it does drop when it sees street lights - u can see that at the end of the video clip. I don't know if u can override it. I've never had the need to as it's always performed well for me. I have never been flashed in the almost 3 yrs since I retrofitted it.