sepulchrave

Just use a VW specialist, much easier to find, every town has one.

I have no clue why you're bothering to try and fit the wrong steering wheel for a few silly buttons and switches.

Yes that's the ECU main connector, the pins are not numbered so you'll have to count how many pins in a row times rows to find pin 104, the first and last pins might be numbered to tell you what order they're in.

Sounds like the PAS is cutting out momentarily, you should check the main PAS fuse on top of the battery for signs of cracking or loose connection.

The tyres are much bigger than standard, they're 65 profile as opposed to 55, that 10% equates to 3/4" and that means they'll probably foul the arch liner at full lock or on full bump or both. This is what generally happens when you fit Golf wheels and tyres to a Polo, they're too big because they're from a bigger car. That basis.

The tyres are too big and will probably rub but no harm in trying if you have them to hand.

I suspect it's not a deal-breaker, CC is decidedly optional in this tiny country of ours, it's handy on a long journey but most people drive such small mileages that it's not really relevant.

Surely it's more likely to be the ASV after shutdown, try disconnecting it to see if it still does it.

It's getting better, my local petrol station has fuel again and all the old duffers who rushed out and bought it all have their cars sitting on their driveways with full tanks now. They're busy buying all the bog rolls and dried pasta now 😄

Here's a bargain car thats vastly better in every way: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-Skoda-Fabia-1-9-TDI-PD-Elegance-5dr-AC-MOT-06-10-2021-HUGE-SERVICE-HIST-/133883489966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Most modern engines are interference engines because they have high compression ratios and high peak valve lift, particularly if naturally aspirated, conversely some forced induction engines are not because they are low compression and have conservative peak valve lift. It does sound like the engine is not worth repairing I'm afraid, just go and buy another cheap Fabia but avoid the three cylinder engines, you've already got a donor vehicle if you need any parts off it.

The timing chain has jumped, it's very common and it sounds like the valves are bent so you have no compression. Sorry.

I think you're almost there, you've proved the engine core is solid so you don't need to change it. Flush the cooling system properly with a hose while the thermostats are out in case there is oil emulsion from the previous HGF trapped in the rad or the matrix.

I understand what you're saying but the high pressure side is contained by hard steel pipes which cannot leak except at the glands where they are connected, it's easy to check these for tightness with a spanner. No-one is suggesting fiddling around with the injectors while the engine is running, I simply suggested cleaning the engine bay up so that the leak can be spotted, I maintain that this is MUCH more likely to be on the low pressure return side which uses soft pipes as stated. There is no need to catastrophise and sound the safety siren at this stage. Suggesting the OP trailer the car to a garage is simply ridiculous, this is a self-help forum, let's find out more before getting hysterical.

Common rail diesels don't use high pressure lines, that's why they're called common rail, it'll be the low pressure return lines leaking, perfectly safe to replace. Clean up and buy a length of fuel hose from which you can cut all the new pieces and replace the lot.

Smoke from under the bonnet suggests fuel or oil is leaking onto the hot exhaust somewhere, don't just throw a bunch of stuff at it, work through the problems systematically.

No you can't, it's physical wear, if you're going to all trouble of stripping it down to clean and regrease it then you might as well replace it.

If it's misfiring it's probably a failing coil pack.

The ride height is dictated by the springs, not the shocks, you'll notice LOT of overthunking things goes on here, most threads become bloated with gibberish when the answer to the original question was often just a "yes" or "no".

Yes, keep your hands on the steering wheel, I've never driven a Fabia that didn't pull to the left, in fact most cars drift down the camber from the crown to the kerb, even my LWB Sprinter does it, albeit very gently.

By the coolant tank. SNAP!

Microswitch in the drivers door lock has failed, mine does it too.

USDM = US Domestic Market JDM = Japanese Domestic Market

My Mark 1's are all non-locking as well, like locking wheel bolts they're way more trouble than they're worth. You can just use one of those temporary caps to prevent evaporation while you get one ordered.

Yeah, the warning light is for the front pads, not the rear drums.