sepulchrave

They do generally last longer unless they're horrible cheap soft pads.

Buy a non-locking fuel cap, it's unnecessary having a locking cap inside a fuel flap.

Dude, this thread is dead, it's an ex-thread, gone to meet its maker... Start a new thread with your problem please.

At least you bother to read what others post, possibly the wrong choice of words but I didn't have you figured as a grammar nazi. Still, thanks for the help.

I mean for you, because you don't have to muck about arguing the toss or paying extra.

That's a stroke of luck since it's a guaranteed repair and won't cost you a penny.

Just replace the wiper, I'm surprised you even needed to ask.

Your first question is unanswerable, which is why you couldn't find any information about it. The answer to your second question is yes, but you'd probably be better off just buying another pair of Gaz shocks to replace them.

Leave it to him to work it out.

The ticking sound is the timing chain, the drop in RPM is probably also related to this. For complete peace of mind you should get the timing chain and tensioner components renewed although it's not urgent. Get the work done by an independent VW specialist rather than the dealer.

I see you're changing the fluid, I have no idea why you'd bother but when you do just jack the front wheels off the ground and go from lock to lock until the squelching noises stop.

No, not if you're just topping up.

Actuator not adjusted correctly, you didn't say the turbo was replaced, adjusting the actuator setscrew on a new turbo requires logging and testing.

This is actually indicative of an air leak on the intake side rather than a problem with the throttle body. Usually this means splits in the vacuum hose between the inlet and the brake servo.

No, not now, I'm sure @briscaF1 will be cool knowing that you plagiarised him accidentally and I'm getting used to you facepalming me for calling you out.

Thank goodness you posted the content of that link that @briscaF1 posted earlier, I was utterly incapable of clicking on it for myself...

Words a mechanic will never say: "I messed something up and now I've fixed it properly, there'll be no charge and I'm sorry for the inconvenience." Words a mechanic will always say: "I'm infallible, something else is wrong with with it, it'll cost you more money if you want it done."

Let's assume it's been refitted correctly then, so what's up with it?

No, I'm trying to help the OP solve his problem not pass an IQ test.

The last time I did a rack on a VAG group car I had to drop the subframe and suspect the garage would have done the same, this would necessitate removing the dog bone, so...

No, it's not a petrol engine, a diesel doesn't even need an intercooler to run. Your car has a fault, check the vacuum supply from the tandem pump to the turbo unless your VNT is getting stuck, but you said the turbo is totally ok, so...

Check for a vacuum leak, use a gauge not your eyes.

It'd take me about ten minutes to check once it was up in the air, the problem is that the rack casting may have been damaged.

No bedding in required, I wonder if they've refitted it incorrectly and pinched the rack by using the wrong bolts.

You can't get wheel bolts anodised, they're high tensile steel. Get some non-toxic crayons and colour them in yourself, careful not to eat the crayons though, don't try marker pens, you'll just get them all over your face and your mummy will have to take you to the hospital.