sepulchrave

Does the window open if you turn the key in the lock and hold it?

It's more important that all the cylinders give similar readings.

Ok, your HG has gone again or worse still the head's cracked, combustion gases are pressurising the coolant and when you release the pressure it flows back and the hoses soften. This means the job was not done properly and you should return the car pronto or you face an enormous bill.

Nope, they're bulletproof.

He didn't get it done, it was done by the previous owner, if you overheat any engine badly enough it'll blow the HG.

You should find an auto electricians and take it to them if the part you've bought doesn't fix it, most garages are TERRIBLE at electrics unless it's their speciality.

Check the wiring from the CPS back to the ECU, your ECU will be using the cam position in lieu of a plausible signal from the CPS.

Check the wiring for continuity first, the loom gets fragile with age and vibration.

Since the engine has a known history and a blown HG indicates that it was badly overheated you might be better off replacing the old oil temperature sensor which would have been cooked for sure. Buy a genuine part because pattern parts often use cheap thermistors with a poor tolerance rating.

Mine does it very slightly, it's just caliper drag. Turn up the stereo and brake harder to get the pads properly bedded in.

That oil temperature is fine, I'm not sure why you're worried about it but I can assure you that you want your oil to get hot enough to boil off any moisture. Also consider that the sensor will not be accurate, if you swap the sensor you'll probably get different readings. It's normal to catastrophise a little after a big blow up but your engine sounds healthy now, you can relax.

Use self tapping screws to fix the joints.

On a diesel?

It's a crazy price, a grand plus VAT, it smacks of laziness, they don't really know what's up with it but they will fix it if you'll wear a silly bill.

I'd get a second opinion if I were you, take it to an independent VW specialist and let them take a look.

Strut braces don't do anything on a road car, they do help on the track or on rally cars. Spend the money on a RARB instead, they really help the handling.

How has the cat been damaged and what are the symptoms please?

Yes it's the right one.

Sounds like the clutch is dragging, get it to bits and replace the lot.

A slave is a slave is a slave. A new standard clutch and DMF is all you need for your remapped standard car, my preference is for LUK or Sachs parts.

No, you have completely different hub carriers with 256mm discs. You'd need to swap the entire front strut to ones with 288mm discs from a 2.0 MPI or a VRS and even then you'd still need the caliper carriers from a 312mm car as well as that kit.

Because the pump contains the electronics that put the light on and when they fail there's nothing to tell the instrument cluster to put the light on and it has no other way of knowing that the PAS ist kaput because there are no other components to the system, it's completely standalone.

I'm not repeating myself again, you read it, the PAS system has TWO electronic components, the angle sensor is one...

Dude, it doesn't have bearings, it's BUSHES, therefore there's no way it can rattle. Believe what you like, the mechanic is confused, it's starting to sound like a boost leak if it's actually still boosting. Get a second opinion.

A PD150 turbo will handle the higher boost of a poor map no problem because it has a slightly bigger impeller so it will be spinning slower to make that same boost pressure which means it won't overspeed and break up, it's not usually the bearing that fails because it's an oil bushing.