sepulchrave

Do a compression test if you're worried.

No, I doubt your old lifters are damaged.

No, because the difference in height between lifters is fractions of a millimetre, enough to stop a valve from seating properly but not enough to cause interference.

No, I don't, it's just sloppy, not dangerous. In fact I think that's your mechanics new nickname, if he was one of the seven dwarves he'd be Sloppy.

If you install old lifters that are still full of oil or stuck you risk losing compression and burning the valve seats, they might unstick themselves but it's very bad practice.

No need, just dip 'em and fit 'em. All this guff about soaking them is ritualistic nonsense, it doesn't do any harm but it's completely unnecessary.

Not if you compress them in a vice to squeeze out all the oil before refitting them.

Usual procedure with new hydraulic lifters is to dip them in clean oil before fitting them, no need to soak them overnight, they're fully compressed when new and cannot absorb any oil so it's a complete waste of time.

It's an easy swap.

They look fine, no oil contamination but I'm not going to recommend you don't replace them. I wouldn't bother though. I feel like I'm repeating myself, can you ask the same question again and I'll try a different answer you might like better?

Handbags? Seems early, I was simply responding to your 'more aggressive remap' nonsense. I'm only right about stuff I bother commenting on, I'm not a scattergun poster, or a monkey flinging 5h!t at a wall to see how much of it will stick Ken.

Delta T is the entire raison d'etre of an intercooler, bear in mind that it's not long ago that many turbo diesels didn't even bother with intercoolers at all because hot air actually improves diesel combustion, guess what glow plugs are for, hint: they're not for warming the cylinder head.

Heatsoak is where the intercooler gets hot and cannot lose the excess heat quickly enough leading to a big rise in delta T which is shorthand for the difference between the charge temperature and ambient.

The main PAS fuse strip on top of the battery is worth a look, if it's cracked it would explain the intermittent nature, search on here for cracked fuse, look carefully and give it a little prod.

No, the stock turbo won't do any more, it flies to bits, but you can fit a bigger unit that makes more boost.

I'm not selling anything so I'm unbiased. Blimey, it was hardly an insult! Not every opinion is worth anything, most people know sweet FA and just parrot rubbish they misheard down the pub, to learn about stuff you have to STUDY and learn the facts, whether that's in education or the workplace. There are opinions and there are facts, they are two different things entirely. An intercooler acts like a heatsink, it absorbs heat from the air travelling through it depending on it's mass and its internal area, therefore a large intercooler can generally absorb more heat from the pressurised air, it can also exchange this heat with the outside air which is why front mount is better, no intercooler can reduce charge temperature below the ambient air temperature so the most power an engine can make for a given boost pressure occurs before the intercooler starts to get hot, this is heatsoak. As the temperature of the intercooler increases the power drops, a FMIC is worth about 10 bhp less power drop than the standard SMIC. Thems the facts, form your own opinion.

Come on cupcake, he's SELLING it and you bought it. It can't add power because a diesel needs more fuel to make more power and that comes from a remap, what it does is reduce the power fade quite dramatically, probably by about 10 bhp! Mugs.

I'm worried because you don't seem to know what I'm talking about!

So the question remains, did you get the spring arm correctly retained in the engine block so that when you used the Allen key you could feel the spring tension in the pulley, it's been a while but the last time I did this I used the Allen key to move the pulley to it's slackest position, locked it in place, fitted the belt, then unlocked the pulley and used the Allen key to align the pointer, relocked it, tightened the cam sprocket vernier bolts, removed the cam locking kit turned the crank two revolutions, checked the locking kit could be refitted and checked the pointer on the pulley was still aligned and adjusted as necessary. Job done, reassemble.

Yes ignore the bit about hydraulic tensioners, further down you'll see the Dayco kit pictured, is that what you fitted?

Take it away from that garage, if they've had it a week it means they don't have a scooby what's wrong with it.

https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/170883-Setting-the-correct-tension-on-the-Timing-belt This is a Golf but it's the same engine etc.

Just unplug the EGR valve and it should run sweetly.

You can't over tension the cambelt because the tensioner pulley is spring loaded and therefore automatic, you're supposed to line it up with the notch then remove the spring keeper and let it find it's happy place, I have no idea what you've been doing to it but you may have fitted it incorrectly and bent the locating pin on the backplate so it is not located and the spring mechanism is not working as intended. Suggest you lock it up, remove the tensioner pulley and see what's happened. You're not supposed to loosen the centre bolt on the cam sprocket, just the vernier bolts in the slots so the pulley can rotate slightly once the cam is locked in place.

I doubt this is an injector issue, much more likely to be a problem with the ASV causing an air restriction.