sepulchrave

Please stop Ken. Hot intake air on a diesel simply reduces power, on a petrol engine it cause pre-ignition which destroys engines. Theory crafting Ken, I haven't looked at the gas laws since university, out here, experience is king.

Heatsoak Ken. Heatsoak loses power.

Just repair the standard pipework using self-tapping screws instead of relying on the clips. It isn't a petrol engine so a FMIC on a diesel just doesn't heatsoak so quickly when on full boost, it doesn't improve power or reduce detonation, it just reduces the rate at which it loses power. It's nothing like a petrol turbo at all in fact.

...and no, you won't need another remap because you aren't increasing anything so no more fuel is needed.

The standard intercooler on a VRS is side mounted so it isn't going to be plug 'n' play. There will be bodywork cutting and drilling necessary, if you're not skilled or tooled up for this then it's probably not worth bothering since a FMIC really only brings benefits with bigger turbos.

The CTS sensor does not cause overfuelling on a diesel per se, it simply runs the glowplugs for longer if it shows the engine is still cold. The fuel temperature sensor in the filter housing can cause the engine to run richer however.

There has to be a leak somewhere when the car is running, this suggests the tandem pump or the tank return pipework somewhere. Leave the car running for half an hour and lie next to it watching.

It is not a MAF, but many diesels do have one fitted.

Looks like air temperature sensor in the airbox and the blocked connection is probably for a breather pipe. The coolant sensors never give the same reading because the tolerance is +/- 10% if you're lucky, it isn't critical and both seem to be working ok. Check the cam and fuel pump timing Kharl, the mechanic is an idiot.

Since everything else is newish, it's most likely to be the angle sensor playing up.

They are standard on all the 288mm disc cars both VRS and 2.0 petrol, on the VRS they are painted green, on the 2.0 they're unpainted. Conversion to 312mm requires changing the calipers to ATE and using longer carriers.

That's a shocking price, get a couple more quotes. You'll end up getting nothing for the car with a blown turbo and no MOT.

A rebuilt turbo is cheap and easy to replace, why not just fix it?

Blimey, this guy has just swapped his entire engine and we're on service items 101? Kharl recheck the cam and pump timing given the recent problems you've had with bad mechanics.

So ask them, it's no use acting like a naughty puppy, if the motor trade sense weakness they'll go in hard and dry...

Find an independent VW specialist and ask for a quote to replace the accumulator only. This isn't rocket science, you don't need a diagnosis, you don't have to pretend to know what you're talking about, just ask for a price for the job.

Hiding behind that giant billboard of paste is the interesting bit, look at the torque difference between the BNM and the ANF/BNV, this suggests a completely different turbo boosting harder earlier in the rev range on the later cars so not just a remap I would suggest.

This is a diesel engine so no throttle, 100 kpa is 1 bar or 1 ATM which is correct. 120 to 155 kpa shows turbo boost. What's not to like?

Yes.

White smoke usually means head gasket, is it using coolant?

They'll fit just fine.

Yes it does, it's mechanically connected to the cam drive so it also gets oil fed from the cylinder head, doesn't look like its leaking much, I'd just clean everything up then monitor the leakage.

Looks more like oil though...

The tandem pump supplies fuel and vacuum, hence tandem, because it does two things at once.

They work but are brutally expensive, very profitable too I would imagine. I generally reverse park, much easier to avoid kerbing when you can see the kerb in the mirror, also practice is good for you.