sepulchrave

You need a 2 bar MAP sensor for boost measurement, standard MAP sensor will probably be 1 bar for a N/A engine.

11 BHP, are you KIDDING me! From 64 to 75 on a N/A 1.2, what the hell are they smoking? Whatever it is they're obviously rolling it up using gullible idiots money for the rolling papers. I would definitely check which ECU you have before giving them any of your rolling papers!

I don't think you can remap the ECU if it's a Siemens or a Marelli unit.

Did I mention that changing the gearbox oil is a complete waste of time and money a month ago? I see that the linkage has still not been correctly reset and now it's actually worse. You need to find an independent VW specialist and ask them to reset the linkage.

Diesel engines don't make a vacuum, that's why there's a special pump to make it instead. Torque isn't reliable enough for diagnosis purposes so it's safe to ignore it, it's a solution in search of a problem.

Your reset switch has probably failed in the cluster or it's stuck on.

Dude, that's all the information you need, just buy four of them!

Work the switch from hot to cold and back again a few times, the flap can get stuck.

Ok, go with J.R. suggestion and check the pickup is clean and clear.

Road speed is irrelevant, engine RPM and oil temperature are the only two factors affecting oil pressure in this case. If you let the engine idle when it's hot does the oil light come on?

No.

The main bearings are worn out and are not holding the oil film, I'm surprised you can't hear the rumble at lower RPM.

In answer to your questions: 1. It would be a very good idea to replace the chain while you have it in bits. 2. No.

I have a question for you, what went wrong with your engine when only one valve got bent?

Not without getting it recoded and you can't do it yourself so realistically, no.

I too think your tank sensor needs replacing, it's an easy job and the part is not that expensive.

The battery is duff, 12.1V means it's being charged but it's not holding that charge.

No, it's cracked.

You need to check the oil cooler but other than that it's a cracked casting.

Check for vacuum leaks in the brake servo pipework, fix any you find and clear the codes.

Has the rubber gasket come off the plug, if so get it out of the socket, refit it, then push the plug back on.

Ok, it seems they're compatible with both diagnostic protocols.

I think all the Mark 2's are CAN and not K-line so it won't work.

Ok, but you'd have to move both sprockets exactly the same amount and without degree markings that's practically impossible, too easy to get in a mess and make things worse. I'd leave well alone.

You won't improve the timing, if, as you say the timing has shifted slightly after turning the engine over twice then this is down to chain stretch and unless you have a vernier sprocket you won't be able to get it perfect.