sepulchrave

To be fair manual gearbox oil doesn't get contaminated or cooked, it leads a very simple and easy life splashing about in the shallow end of the lubricant gene pool. Manual gearboxes fail because of a defective component or because a leak has gradually reduced the oil level which has allowed a bearing to run dry, never because the oil didn't get changed!

The throttle body should initialise when you switch the ignition on, other than that, pressing the pedal will not do anything until the engine has started.

You won't get any life out of the throttle body until the engine starts so that's a RED HERRING! Please listen.

What did you expect them to say, "yessir, our cars are useless, I'm amazed you bothered buying one"? Manual gearboxes are lifetime, DSG is classed as an automatic, someone will be along shortly to tell you which magic jizz to use, how to do it and which leg to stand on while doing it!

No, it just means they won't touch it because they don't have the tools or the talent.

English please.

Ignore the throttle body, it's fly by wire, you can jump all over the pedal but the throttle will only move when the ECU tells it to.

It's not, it's extremely inaccessible but it can be done, there's a geezer on YouTube who does it from the top by removing all the inlet manifolding etc. You may be able to do it from underneath by removing the starter motor which is how I spotted it, I guess it depends how high you can get the front, I had fully extended axle stands under both consoles.

The Mark 1 VRS comes with 16" wheels as standard. The brakes are a straight swap and fit under the wheels just fine.

Yes it's the same engine core, I didn't change mine but I saw where it was when I was under it and I've done a few on other vehicles that were even harder to get at, the Jeep CRD was probably the toughest, had to do it completely blind due to the location.

You certainly can change the crank sensor without removing the gearbox but you need to get right under the front of the car to get at it. Edit: I did try flagging the CPS ten days ago but it got buried under the dogpile.

Got my driver's tan already, one brown forearm and a pink knee!

I probably still wouldn't bother but I use 75/90 fully synthetic if I'm forced to replace due to leakage etc.

That is a truly brutal torque figure, you'll be doing the clutch sooner rather than later!

You can convert to 312mm front discs by buying calipers and carriers from an old Audi TT 2WD or similar, they bolt straight on.

If it's a manual gearbox then it's filled for life but the manufacturers idea of the cars life is ten years or 100k. At 60k I certainly wouldn't bother.

Did you stand on one leg with the gauge touching your nose and take the reading with crossed eyes?

Did someone call the safety police, or did they just show up unbidden?

Torque is up 50% on standard so it's gonna feel pretty urgent, yes.

I would have expected 200 BHP tbh and the standard injectors are good to 220 ish but 400nm is bang on the money and will give the clutch some serious work to do, careful with big pulls in high gears, you might get some slip. Bear in mind a 1752 is a standard PD150 unit which will map to about 180, 1749 is standard PD130 and maps to 165 so going up 4mm on the compressor is not suddenly going to split the planet open, it's going to add about another 20 on top of the 1752. I'm guessing it's running about 2.0 bar boost which is 3.0 bar absolute. Tuners make crazy claims to justify big bills but this ain't rocket science, you could've mail ordered a generic 1756 map and probably got better results. Diesels are different to petrols, REALLY different, PD's especially so since they have a set of steel vanes baffling the exhaust gases before they even hit the turbo. I would get the VNT actuator checked to make sure the settings are correct.

1756 and 1856 are basically the same thing, both with a 56mm compressor wheel, barely measurable difference to the exhaust geometry. It's the compressor that makes the boost. When I said your mate I meant the guy who sold it to you. The smoking thing was a humorous reference to the crazy figures being claimed. I've been here fifteen years and I've seen them all, I used to work in the tuning trade so I know what I'm talking about. I just got some new glasses btw.

Yes, the compressor is always on, he's a D!CKHEAD. Well done and don't go back.

Dude, there's absolutely NO WAY a 1756 will make much more than 200 BHP, let alone 250 to 300, you and your mate must be smoking too many herbs! We've seen 250 BHP on various 2260 cars and a couple at 300 ish which weren't reliable and kept blowing up.

400nm is big torque, it should pull like a train, not sure what you were expecting but you've only gone up two small steps from the standard turbo which is a 1749, next up is the 1752, then a 1756 which is about where you're at. The BHP figure is meaningless and frankly the flow remark is just downright dumb, only really relevant to petrol turbo engines which rev MUCH higher and consequently have to shift a lot more exhaust gas. I'd be pretty happy with that torque figure, try shortshifting and pulling a taller gear for moar go!

A hybrid will take your insurance costs into the stratosphere, a BOV is noisy and pointless, you already have a a recirc. valve which does the same job but better.