sepulchrave

Turn the sidelights on, it'll be the red lens that isn't illuminated, same both sides.

If you're replacing the sensor then you can cut the wire off and use a proper deep impact socket that won't spring open and twist off. I only ever use the special 22mm socket for refitting a new sensor with a lead on it, for removal I always cut the lead off and use the big rattle gun with loads of penetrant soaked in.

Anti, but it will be tight!

It's usually the solenoid that's the root of the problem, the internal contacts become burnt and eroded by arcing and cannot be repaired. I have replaced solenoids in the past which has rejuvenated a tired starter but Chinese starters are now so cheap on eBay that it's quicker and cheaper to just chuck a whole new unit on.

Yes, the cap should be vented, well spotted, a good fix for a very rare problem.

Yes, change the starter, it's obviously drawing too much current, I did mine recently and it was a revelation frankly, it starts instantly with no whining.

You don't need to check, just open each taillight in turn and replace each brake light bulb, keep the one that's not blown as a spare.

It'll be on the opposite side from the starter motor, you'll need to get under the car to stand any chance of seeing it.

It's under the car rather than under the bonnet!

You must heat the hose with a hot air gun to soften it enough to push it on.

It sounds like the garage has decided to use you instead of a cash machine.... However, I suggest the actuator may be at fault, that garage will tell you you need a whole new turbo but actuators are available separately, they may tell you you need a new MAP sensor, again, highly unlikely.

Some people aren't so parsimonious and are happy to pay for what they like.

Emissions control light suggests the post cat lambda isn't happy with what it can smell in the exhaust, look for splits in the vacuum hoses, blocked engine breather etc. upsetting the mixture control. Don't assume it's the sensor or the cat itself.

Total loss of drive like that is usually the gearbox but no sense in speculating.

It doesn't matter what's wrong with it, the gearbox has got to come out anyway whereupon diagnosis will be trivial.

You don't need to close it, you can continue to update it as you find and fix the other functions.

I took it to mean that there was a threaded hole you could screw the old bolt into to act as a fulcrum for the counter hold tool. I guess it was translated badly from ze German.

If you look at the last paragraph it clearly states that you use the old bolt together with the counter hold tool to lock the sprocket in place, you still need to use the new bolt to actually fasten it!

You can only realistically set the toe using the track rods, IIRC it needs to be zero degrees plus or minus a few seconds.

There's only one caliper for the Mark 1 VRS, a Lucas made item to suit 288mm discs.

Use a ratchet strap attached to something big, like another car or van.

That's not regen, it's a dodgy injector, the VAG 1.6 is famous for killing injectors.

Use another jack to lift the hub and take the tension off the lower arm.

You mean infinite resistance of course because they're a diode and and will only pass current in one direction, in the other direction there is a forward voltage below which current cannot pass as well as an upper threshold above which the LED 'blows' and becomes a zener diode which won't glow any more.

That's because it's low grade stainless steel, also diesels don't rot exhausts from the inside like petrols used to before the sulphur content was drastically reduced.