sepulchrave

Looking at the OP's posting history this has been dragging on for a couple of years, it's a 1.2 HTP from 2008 as far as I can tell, it would be nice if we could find out what DTC is actually throwing the CEL because throwing money at it is only really working for the garage.

...or a MAF for that matter!

The bulb may look ok but still be faulty, to be certain swap with the rear fog lamp bulb then you can test it easily.

No MAF on the 1.4 16v petrol engines I'm afraid.

That's the kind of agricultural engine this crap was designed for, rudimentary and with such lax tolerances that you couldn't fail but to improve efficiency. Actually it was really designed to help terrible flat tappet pushrod V8's in the 5 litre range making about 120 BHP, the craptastic build quality of those things has to be seen to be believed!

Try unplugging the EGR valve, I hate to say it but it's almost always the EGR valve on AUB/BBZ engines. I replaced mine with a brand new Pierburg part and had no further problems. Try not to worry about the environment, it's a collective endeavour where the law of large numbers holds sway and your little petrol engine isn't really doing any harm.

Terrible crap, I used it once in the early 90's in a VW KR 16V and it blocked one of the oil squirter jets and knocked out a little end, I learned my lesson, rebuilt the engine and learned to live with the terrifying thirst, it didn't do anything for MPG anyway because what little friction there is in a running engine is mostly from the piston rings scraping up and down the bores and magic snake oil can't help with that.

Clutch plate is only 200mm in diameter, my 2.0 is only 220mm, come to think of it you might be able to fit the 2.0 clutch and flywheel as an upgrade. You need to get your old one off so you can measure stuff.

It has a tiny single mass flywheel already, no way to improve on it really.

Think on/off switch for your engine, great for rapid gearshifts, terrible for low speed control. You want a standard friction plate with an uprated diaphragm really, the standard spring fingers are too soft so that old ladies can have a light clutch pedal.

Yikes! I wouldn't use a paddle clutch, you'll be stalling it all the time.

Helix will be able to supply you one but it won't be cheap!

Just, wow. How bad are the bores?

I suspect the tensioner has a piston actuated by oil pressure to keep the chain taut while the engine is running, since you say it immediately goes quiet when started then clearly it's working properly so I think that changing the tensioner probably won't make any difference.

I reckon a plug has come out that maybe wasn't fully clipped back in sometime in the past, start with the MAP sensor since there's a code for this, check the crank position sensor next since this can cause non-starting, also check the ECU multiplugs are fully pushed home.

There's your answer, the engine's not burning it because it's leaking directly into the exhaust system, I imagine the cat is heavily fouled as well, the turbo seal on the exhaust side has failed so she must smoke a fair bit.

Actually bad for your engine, blocks piston squirters etc. don't you dare put it in a modern engine.

It could be leaking straight into the exhaust from the turbo, is the tailpipe sooty?

They look fine, stratified injection engines run VERY lean so you must expect the plugs to be much paler than old school engines. It clearly isn't burning any oil so I'd be very happy with that!

Wow.

The new bulb may be faulty, try another one.

Then they're mad because the only way to increase boost and fuelling is to remap, everymod is a legacy of old skool diesels, it doesn't work on modern stuff, it just makes them smokey and thirsty.

It's obviously not reaching a high enough pressure to "blow off", have you removed and blanked the standard recirc valve or is it still fitted?

People aren't, it's stupid and it just wastes fuel for no performance gain.

Yes, that's correct.