sepulchrave

Your only chance is the starter motor solenoid, if you can jack the car up high enough to get under there safely you can connect a +12V feed or battery charger to it and a ground to the chassis, that should get you out of dodge but be careful not to short anything.

It's full of air, do it again, start with the rears, do each caliper in turn until they all run clear.

I suspect the system is full of air somewhere, I assume you've bled all four corners starting with the longest pipe run, you'll have to go through it again and you'll definitely need to use VCDS to bleed the ABS block.

The plugs come pre-gapped so you don't need to touch 'em. Incidentally it's the coil energy that dictates plug gap, nothing to do with the plug itself.

You need to measure the bolt to get the correct size.

A Helicoil is stronger than the original thread, it'll be just fine, get it done.

Worth checking the main fuse for cracking as well since terminal 30 errors usually mean intermittent power supply issues.

It's not regenerating, it's simply not getting hot enough and that fault code is probably not helping. Edit: SNAP!

https://www.bestusefultips.com/change-usb-settings-android-phone/?utm_content=cmp-true

Did you edit your USB preferences in Android settings on your device?

EGT sensor and Lambda sensor are different parts, you need to replace the EGT sensor.

What, a girl guide? Might be illegal...

That is a truly horrible racket for a petrol engine to make, it sounds like tappets to me, I suspect the top end has suffered oil starvation. Easy enough to whip off the cam cover and take a look.

The fault may not even be relevant, I would clear it and see if it returns.

I daresay you'll be able to find a hose barb that'll fit since it's almost certainly a standard metric size and a hose barb is a generic part.

You need to separate the shoes to remove them, this means removing the top spring as well. Refitting is more difficult than removal so you may be best served by simply removing the wheel hub, you don't need to replace the nut, it's reusable.

That's not a separate piece, it's a part of the whole assembly.

Best thing to do is diagnose the cause of the low compression accurately.

Most people don't have engine cranes so just removing the cylinder head is much easier by comparison, removing a few more bits and bolts just takes longer but is still just a matter of hand tools and patience.

You may find that it's just a burnt valve on number one, way easier to repair than replacing the whole engine unnecessarily.

If you have TPMS this will be disabled if you remove the factory Bluetooth module, just tell your phone to forget it and try to ignore it, tricky with OCD I know, but try.

You didn't say if it was losing coolant, a knackered water pump leaks coolant. The BXW engine is eerily similar to the AUA and the BBY, it is one of the most reliable engines in the VAG range and it REALLY doesn't give any trouble. Ticking and rattling when cold is a sticky lifter and can be safely ignored, and I mean completely ignored, forever! I fervently believe there's nothing wrong with your engine, just give it a good spank from time to time to keep it clean and honest.

I can confirm from the photo that you appear to have an exhaust system lying on the ground. Only measurements will tell you if it will fit or not, but it probably will fit with some minor mods for sure.

No, the water pump will be fine. I really wouldn't worry about something that minor.

It's easy to remove, just use petrol or similar.