sepulchrave

Nicely, albeit pointlessly done.

Heart FM; I'd rather force bicycle spokes into my ears than listen to that horror!

No, I wrote that concurrently with you, I didn't know.

Look, this is getting annoying, we're getting sidetracked by semantics here, this isn't about right and wrong, that's for vicars and tarts to figure out. Baulking going into a gear when stationary is usually caused by a dragging clutch loading the layshaft, it can be a worn linkage or it can be a faulty gearbox so work though the possible causes starting with bleeding the clutch. It's worth resetting the gear linkage and it's worth topping up the gearbox oil in case the level has dropped.

It's impossible for synchromesh to operate when the layshaft is in neutral and not moving, it can only work coming down from second to first and it can never work in reverse. Think about it.

First and reverse have no synchromesh so if the clutch is dragging slightly they will be extremely difficult to engage.

Nowadays everyone's a size queen, the inexorable rise of soshul meedyah means numbers and charts are all anyone is interested in so most dyno operators just give the customer what they think he wants in return for a fistful of beer tokens. Big numbers = happy punters.

Dyno calibration is incredibly finicky, engine dynos are far more accurate, however if you're planning a sequence of modifications then a rolling road can be useful as long as you use the same one throughout and you tell the operator that you are only interested in consistency for comparison and not the actual numbers themselves. An operator can program a dyno to say whatever they want it to say so you can largely ignore the figures, suffice to say that 194BHP is a standard engine and the daft foam filter and the missing airbox lid aren't doing the engine any favours keeping the intake air cold and clean.

Help, ahaha

Has the dimmer control failed?

Or you can unbolt it from the big strip fuse on top of the battery.

Repairing it is less work, cheaper and just as effective.

Yes, open them up, you won't see broken wires THROUGH the bellows unless you have x-ray specs!

Just unplug the PAS pump.

Disconnect the PAS and you'll be fine in daylight.

Some kitten has removed the lid to try and get it to make silly noises, not for performance. People fit induction kits so they can go "Bwaaarrrrrrrr" and pretend the car is faster, it's the placebo effect.

Honestly, 178 BHP standard versus 194 BHP, 16 earth shattering BHP surely must mean the standard airbox is restricting it? More likely it's the dyno that's been 'tuned' Just put it back to standard for reliabilitys sake.

Yes, a tank mounted lift pump fills the filter housing.

Suggest you only talk to Darkside if you want to buy one of their hideously expensive products. I reckon if you fit a standard element and put the lid back on the airbox you'll still have 194 BHP.

It used to be, but McVities won their case against HMRC so there is legal precedent now.

Only in hot humid weather Ken, in the winter the evaporator isn't doing anything.

Drain the clean coolant into a pan, pour it back in at the end of the job. You may not be a very experienced fitter, it's possible to get a LOT done in two hours, I bet the book says two hours as well which is what the quote would have been based on.

You'll run out stuff to do as soon as you stop looking for stuff to do. Eventually you're going to have to start talking to 'er indoors again...

No, I'm not, it isn't all about you, only the first bit is. The second bit is about me. The third bit could be about anyone, but more generally; a person can be smart but people are stupid, the larger the group is the dumber it gets.

You talk too much and bring a huge amount of background noise often drowning out good suggestions in the tumult. I'm not always right because it isn't possible to be, however I do know how everything works so I can help narrow things down a bit. I never found anything I couldn't fix, except stupid of course.