sepulchrave

Seriously?

O M G The 1970's called and asked for you...

Please define "seems", did you bell all the wires out or not?

Isn't Monte Carlo the trim spec? You have a Mk2 Fabia, I assume you have PAS, why are you looking at tie rods for non-PAS?

The front wishbone rear bushes.

It's more to do with the age of the rubber suspension components, they will all be very tired after 13 years use irrespective of mileage, particularly the front wishbone bushes.

Have you checked the torsion value for the cam timing?

Did you reset the injectors stroke after changing the cam?

You haven't really thought this through have you. Generally speaking when I undertake a project I have a good idea of what to expect, it seems to me that you have absolutely no idea other than that you want heated seats, which frankly isn't enough.

Just swap the two ends and leave the middle alone, you may not need a coil pack unless the misfire moves from 3 to 1.

That picture I posted is from my son-in-laws car, just rebuilt the regulator from a kit I already had in stock in one of the sheds, waiting for the rivets to turn up in the morning before I reassemble it.

A glance at the circuit diagram suggests it's a pretty simple installation, it won't work without that relay module though.

To be fair the failure mode is usually the plastic runners breaking and releasing the cable nipples because four of the six terminate at the runners with the other two ending in the cable spool itself, once a nipple comes out of the runner a failure is certain.

No need for a diagnostic, that little triangular indentation in the clamp is the detent, in order to remove the clamp you would normally have to shove a screwdriver into the plastic runner to lift it over that triangular detent.

It's impossible for that part to just fall out which suggests the plastic runner has broken so I'm afraid you're going to need to take it all apart to fix it properly otherwise it will probably jam and break your regulator.

You may have a common rail pump or fuel pressure regulation issue. It's not possible for you to safely test this yourself without the proper equipment, you need to find an indie VW specialist near you.

When I did mine I only had to remove the trim at the back of the headliner, then I was able to reach between the headliner and the roof to undo the aerial base.

What pipes?

This is conspiracy nut nonsense, water is not miscible in petrol, E10 has fractionally increased that solubility to about 0.05% but accumulated water from condensation will sit in the lowest part of the plastic fuel tank, over the lifetime of the car you might get a few spoonfuls but not enough to affect anything.

Yeah, unbranded stuff generally is very cheap, unfortunately it's usually no good either. Keep looking.

I can't get past the towering wall of text that @roottooterects every time another Mk 2 VRS owner dares to ask a question, it's always the same, an Aspergers saliva storm breaks like a tsunami and floods the thread with irrelevance that only he knows, all sense and reason drown in the backwash of ad-hominem attacks he then mounts to maintain his status as king of twincharger trivia mountain. Dude, sometimes the juice just ain't worth the squeeze.

At last some common sense from @thomasaspin, oil brand fairies drive engineers like me crazy, stick to the specs and schedules and you can't go wrong. It's like all that Sunday paper crap about superfoods, nutritionists are morons and dieticians and doctors laugh like drains at all their nonsense. It's the illusion of agency, people want to feel special and in control, at least in people the placebo effect actually works, it doesn't bloody work on car engines though!

The loose plug would have been enough to cause a misfire at idle, 3 cylinder engines shake like a sh!tting dog so plug must have been undertightened to work loose.

No idea, it's been a good few years since I had to buy one but I suggest you check the fault codes before throwing money at it and replace those spark plugs.