sepulchrave

You should have a fault code stored, unfortunately despite closing my eyes and concentrating really hard I can't read it from here.

No there don't, it clears the dynamic map even if there are no codes, have you seriously never used VCDS? Guff indeed, you are SUCH a bluffer!

I'm talking about resetting the dynamic map, not wiping the ECU! Simply clear codes using a scan tool to do this, I thought you knew what you were talking about@roottoot?

The lowest connection point in the boost pipework leaks oil on every turbo car I've ever seen, weirdly the oil is actually acting as a sealant preventing air from blowing past the seal, so, no your boost pipe is not leaking. An enormous amount of engineering effort goes into the manufacturers standard pipework on a turbo car but there's no realistic way to duplicate that work in the aftermarket space so aftermarket kits are kludges of aluminium tube, silicon pipework and mikalor clamps so that the end user can cut and trim bits for a bespoke fit. A hard pipe kit isn't an improvement unless the standard pipework is knackered and the cost of OE parts exceeds the cost of an aftermarket kit, but as ever, it's your money to do whatever you like with and it certainly won't do any harm if you get it to fit properly.

You know how much I hate to be 'that guy', the one who provides a much needed reality check: Your fuel pump doesn't care how much liquid is in the tank around it, it'll pump it just the same until that liquid runs out. Your car also doesn't care which brand of fuel you use as long as the octane rating is good. However I think you're right that the new commute doesn't suit the car, so I would reset the ECU and make the car relearn the dynamic map on your new commute to get rid of those bugs you've described but which have no causal connection to the quantity or brand of fuel you're using.

What improvement? Pipes is pipes.

If it ain't broke...

Why don't you ask Darkside?

Insane prices, absolutely barking mad. Get away from that dealer right now, don't walk, RUN! Take your car to an independent VW specialist for a second opinion, there's bound to be one nearby.

The shrouding is correct, however dipped beam does not go off when main beam comes on, you can clearly see this on cars which use separate bulbs for dip and main.

You need to check continuity from the injector plug back to the loom plug. Call a mobile auto electrician if this is a problem for you.

That was me as well BTW. Having both filaments lit is normal, it's why main beam is twice as bright!

Polo 9N stuff should fit, Octavia less likely.

It won't be anything to do with the timing belt, a timing belt either works fine or it snaps, performance doesn't deteriorate as the belt ages If you're due a major service then you should get that work done first before escalating to a fault diagnosis from this forum.

I suspect the injector wiring loom was damaged during the unplanned excursion, use an auto electrician or just replace it if it tests faulty.

You can still buy glass fibre body kits from an Eastern European company, someone posted a link on here recently. There was quite an assortment available. However you must answer some serious questions about the cost and your level of ability and facilities available to do the work. Most of the kit must be bonded into place and the car will need repainting, this is very expensive, if you can't do the work yourself then it will cost thousands with new wheels and tyres as well.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17669/P1261/004705 It's more likely to be the injector loom, what's the car doing?

No voltage present because it's the earth that's switched to kill the power to the shutter solenoid, therefore you could use another relay to switch a separate live feed to the main beam bulb.

There's nothing wrong with Delphi stuff, they're an OEM just like Bosch. You're paying extra for the quality control, unbranded stuff may well come from exactly the same Chinese factory but it's usually failed QA checks and doesn't make the grade for an OE supplier. This quaint notion that there's hundreds of factories making exactly the same part is simply not true, there are a few big players and the parts are graded and may use different specs internally, with ignition coils the money can be saved on the copper wire so weight is a good indicator, if you could weigh all the different specs you'd find a direct correlation with price.

It's a relatively simple issue to fix, obviously the projector unit uses a solenoid to move it from dipped to full beam position and it is this solenoid which is actuated by the relay in the diagram. All you need to do is measure whether that solenoid is normally energised when the lights are on, the diagram looks like it is. Is the dip solenoid relay still in the old headlight unit with the solenoid itself or is it separate?

Either will be fine.

Buy a good quality coil if you want to get rid of all the misfires.

It's the 6V so unless it's had new valves fitted already they'll be burnt out and losing compression.

Yes three sensors across the back, none on the corners.

Yes, yellow sharpens contrast which is why marksmen use yellow lenses in their glasses.