indars

I wouldn't install distorted seal even if this refers just to dust lip (but not to main sealing place). Distortion will not came back to normal form after installation. But in general, Elring is good brand of sealing materials. Victor Reinz, Corteco- those also are great.

Walter White's new car? 😆

Million years ago...was sold in '2019

PTFE seal are (...)pretty solid(...) only in theory. Already saw posts in other forums concerning leaking Octavia Mk3 PTFE seals, for example. + my personal experience with EarthMoving machines where manufacturer converted from radial seal to PTFE seals- I not recognized that they last longer. + PTFE seal must be mounted correctly and it's must "sat down" few H before starting engine.

(...) Just my personal opinion, I would use this version of pump only in hot country. Otherwise warm-up time of engine and emission quality (for those who cares about it) will be influenced. (...) I advise original execution (OE or aftermarket version) = switchable pump. With or without valve? I advise with valve because for next 210'000km (next timing stuff replacement + water pump at same time) nobody will dig here no more.

Should be used also for petrol Octy. Pos.32 here: LLLParts

Original pump Pos.1 is sold with valve Pos.3. Aftermarket pumps can be sold with or without valve; then you install old valve. Some aftermarket pumps comes in "special execution" where valve is not used no more. Those are ""mechanical" or "not-switchable" pumps, cheaper. There's just empty bore in place, where valve was mentioned + (!!!) there's no sliding shutter (arrow in photo) which regulates coolant flow.

I advise to leave original plastic ring in it's place if it looks ok.

Doesn't work on my 11/2016 Octy: shows TIME and that's it.

Stopper Škoda 5E0823713 (skoda-parts.com) Left and right is similar. Or cut it from DIY shop foam.

Just installed 225/45R17 Sailun Atrezzo ZSR2 94Y (on 7" wide rims) and those are super quiet and comfortable. Ok, have driven only 88km / only on dry / not sporty- but 1st impressions are good. First set of cheap PRC tires in my life- let's see how quickly they'll worn out. Balanced ideally, 30g, 15g, 45g, 35g per tire. New rims. BTW, my friend have driven 225/45R17 Hankook VentusPrime3 and S1 Evo(2or3) per years and never said that those are noisy. But he have Seat Exeo.

06K 103 485 D last revision of this cap, I think. With D in the end. Installed it on 2.0TDI on Octy Mk3 and Golf Mk7. No leaks so far. Tip: install oil cap with dry contact area (rubber vs plastic inlet tube).

I went in opposite direction 9 years ago (from not studless to studded) 🤣 but 3/4 of my friends still prefer studless tires.

Converted from 205/55R16 + OE Minoris to 225/45R17 + ATS StreetRallye Dark Grey:

Cap...new execution with yellow thread and no oil brand name on it?

DQ250, type 0D9 or 02E One of them is for all wheel drive. But which is which? Not 100% sure but 0D9 would be for AWD...

This belt works in oil and (as per Škoda) is LifeTime belt. It's not included in OEM timing belt kit but is included in some aftermarket kits. BUT If during replacement of timing belt will recognize crankshaft seal leak, it's wise to replace oil/vacuum pumps' small cheap belt too, at the same time. Because for seal or pump's belt replacement it's necessary to dismantle all timing stuff and oil sump. It's Teflon seal, built into plastic cover = compele unit. Hence, engine can be started only after few hours after replacement of seal (Teflon lip must settle properly). More belt/seal/pump pictures (closer to end of post) and text in Russian- here: Замена ГРМ и сальника коленвала — Skoda Superb Mk3, 1,6 л., 2016 года | плановое ТО | DRIVE2

Concerning rear discs for axle beam suspension: 51mm heigh for pre-FaceLift models and 61mm for FL models. FL have another track width/another axle beam. ETKA knows this but aftermarket brake catalogues- not always. 1ZE front and 1KD rear is popular combination for moderate powerplants. Both my '2016 110kW 2L tdi and my friends' '2013 77kW 1.6 tdi has similar brakes.

When mine accidently started to blow weakly (and sometimes not blowing at all) I made reset, played with fan speeds, cleaned motor... All my actions helped just for few weeks. In the end replaced blower motor and problem was gone. Mk3 Octy (and all VAG MQB cars) is well-known for it's weak blower motor- brushes worn out too fast. For those who read in Russian, there're plenty of posts about this issue. Solution is to replace motor or "deconstruct old one to bone" and go to shops to find appropriate brushes.

OE pump is switchable and is sold as complete unit (pump with electromagnetic valve). Aftermarket pumps can vary depending on brand: pumps without valve; then you use old valve; pumps with valve; not-switchable pumps (not OE solution) for those who want avoid possible sticking of impeller's sliding "shutter ring" with following overheat issues. Just my personal opinion, I would use this version of pump only in hot country. Otherwise warm-up time of engine and emission quality (for those who cares about it) will be influenced.

Thank you for info; you gave me extra useful web page which I missed in my searches. To 2nd part: yes, this was just copy-paste info from description of OE part number.

Thank you, Wino- R13 looks trustable indeed.

Somehow this is correct. But not always. Client asks for warranty, but in case of tricky problem- who's guilty? My wrong repair or (possibly) defective parts you brought me? Some workshops works with client's parts, some- not. Official dealers 99% works only with their own parts- even if you're ready brought them OE parts you got somewhere/cheaper (doesn't concern oil; if you give them sealed bottles with correct and VAG approved oil- they should use your oil and keep warranty valid). That's how it works in Latvia.