SC03OTT

Scala? I don’t know for sure. More of a question to answer your question.

In the main, I don’t really “get” them. Most are pretty crap, in terms of being forced as mentioned above. Bonus points if they’re those horrendous 4D things as well.

Id be jet washing after you let the snow foam dwell. The whole point of it is to lift dirt off the surface to prevent it being dragged over the paint work. By not rinsing, you’re not removing it before washing. Other than that, nice wee routine 👍🏻

Quick snap from inside the front door. Morning beading.

Winter prep wash yesterday. Didn’t take any pics as I was cold and tired by the end. Anyway, routine was: Wheels - Bilt Hamber spray at 4% and allow to dwell - Rinse - Carpro Reset spray and brush wash - Rinse Body - Bilt Hamber foam and allow to dwell. - Rinse. - Carpro Reset wash. - Rinse. - Carpro Iron X, couple of panels at a time. Dwell and wash off. - Full rinse. - Carpro Tar X, couple of panels at a time. Dwell and wash off. - Full rinse. - Bilt Hamber foam and allow to dwell. - Rinse - Carpro Reset wash (this is just to make sure all the above is removed) - Carpro Reload. Coat and buff one panel at a time. - Carpro Hydro2 Lite. Spray one panel at a time and rinse. - Dry - Tyres dressed. Carpro Pearl. Thats is. Maintenance washing every few weeks and the occasional top up of Hydro2 until March/April when I do the whole thing again.

The OP doesn’t even wash it. They ain’t doing that. Take it to a body shop. Ask them to fix it.

Yeah, like that. Ride height is bang on too 👍🏼

He whispers, tenderly, into the fuel neck which one is being used just prior to filling up.

The whole conversation could soon be moot given we’re only 10p a litre away from the OP being priced off the road. Probably a couple of months 🤷🏻‍♂️

My suspicion is your wash place is using something pretty strong as a pre-wash and it’s knackering the finish.

Eh, wow. How are you washing these and the car in general? Mine don’t look anything like that after 4 and a bit years.

If you’re up front about the condition and not a total dreamer then there is no reason for them not to pay what is quoted. Problems arise when people declare their car as “mint”, read as 4 kerbed wheels, sun cream hand prints, interior stained with 3 years of Happy Meals, and then wonder why money is knocked off.

The sources seem to be a couple of people on Twitter. That’s it.

Because it takes up about 1/3 of the boot space..? Unless I’m missing the sarcasm..?

My comment was more directed at those who I assumed were new to this, asking what a clay bar is. Sure, I’d expect someone like yourself with a bit of knowledge to be ok doing it. Plus, you have the facility to correct any issues that may be caused. I suspect those asking above, don’t. That may be an unfair assessment; I don’t know 🤷🏻‍♂️

Between £16k and £17k for a decent spec? Yeah that seems ok. It’s a hard pass on the 1.0NA in prison spec for me though.

I’d still be advising non-contact decontamination before clay bar. Or even instead of, I’d you’re not going to DA afterwards. That clay is just going to drag contaminants over the surface. And there will be a lot, if it’s never been done before. But hey, that’s my preference.

Thats a bold claim, “no defects”. No swirling, hologramming (if that’s even a word 😂). Every car has defects. I’d say the clay bar part of your process is the biggest risk here. No contactless decontamination first? Do you then machine polish afterwards? No criticism implied here. I’ll state again, my process has flaws. I’m just picking up on that “no defects” comment.

I searched for “multi tube vacuum attachment” and was able to find them 👍🏼

If it’s a 1.2 is a 4 cylinder, not 3.

@Jim2015 Wheels & Arches - spray wheels and arches with a 4% solution of Bilt Hamber Auto Foam. Allow to dwell for 2/3 minutes and power hose off. - spray wheels wheels with CarPro Reset (5ml Reset to 700ml water). Coat liberally. Agitate with a suitable wheel or large detail brush, including tyre faces. Power hose off. Bodywork - Wash - coat car with Bilt Hamber Auto Foam using foam lance. Allow this to dwell. Depending on the ambient temperature, this dwell time can be used to clean window shuts, grill sections etc with a suitable detailing brush. Power hose off. - clean window shuts, grill sections etc with suitable detailing brush (ignore if done above) and power hose off. - wash the bodywork using a dedicated microfibre mitt from top to bottom, one panel at a time until complete, remembering door shuts. Wash in straight likes as much as you can. Don’t swirl about. - wash the wheels using a dedicated microfibre mitt, tyre faces and mud flaps. - fully rinse the car down from top to bottom. Drying - using a dedicated microfibre cloth, dry the bodywork from top to bottom one panel at a time. - using a dedicated microfibre cloth, dry the door shuts - using a dedicated microfibre cloth, dry the wheels and tyre faces. I do that every 2 weeks. In a March and October I’ll do a big wash, stripping all protection off the bodywork, decontaminating using a fallout remover, tar remover all that good stuff. I don’t clay bar as I don’t have a machine polisher to correct afterwards. After it’s decontaminated, it’s the above wash, protect, seal and that’s it. I’d probably top the protection up every 2 months in between that. Like I said. This is my routine that gives me results I’m happy with. I know there are issues with it, but I’m not willing to go the extra mile to get the extra results. It would stop being enjoyable for me if I did.

The brush is still going to be pretty abrasive on paint. Or the clear coat, to be more accurate. Those silicon blades do a great job of dragging any lingering dirt over the surface as well. Ditto for the leather. But like I said, if you’re happy with the results then great. My opinions don’t matter. Just like those who use £5 hand washes will tell you “the guys do a great job”. And to their standard yes, maybe they do. But not to mine. Im no expert either. Some of my techniques, methods will be frowned upon by those with a better eye than me. The two bucket method for example. I don’t subscribe to that. A statement that will send a shiver down someone’s spine.

What results are you looking for? This will really dictate what advice is given. If you just want it clean, the auto car wash or £5 hand wash is fine. if you’re looking to minimise scratches, swirling and that better attention to detail, then we’re into the realms of wash mits, microfibres, detail brushes. The key info is what your expectation is. For example, the reply above (brush, squeegee and leather) is - to me - a comprehensive list of what not to use.

Why? They’ve done exactly what any buyer would do first. Go in with a low offer. Nobody, be that dealer or private buyer wants to pay any more than they have to.

The OP asked for either deactivation or delay settings. Delay settings have been highlighted, albeit for the Mk3. I don’t think anybody knows - for either option - for the Mk4. I feel you’re getting a tad wound up about this.