chimaera

Or you could just stick with what Skoda have approved, they've left quite a lot of options for people to use already.

For proper information about wheels and tyres on the Superb, read here: From an insurance point of view, if you fit a type approved combination per the lists in that thread it should not be considered a modification.

This is expected functionality for smart towing controllers: it disables the rear parking sensors when a trailer is connected so the constant beeping doesn't drive you crazy when reversing. This is part of the reason for the coding changes - you're telling the car that a smart towing controller is connected and the other controllers in the car should be talking to it. I have very little knowledge of the Westfalia kits, I installed the Skoda OEM 13-pin kit (made by Hella) on my car and it worked perfectly. Annoyingly I can't find the manual for it to see what the coding instructions should be. I'll try and find it tonight. Coding steps 4 & 5 involve connecting to the PDC controller, so if that's not happening it suggests a problem with that controller. Does the PDC controller show up in the installation list on the CAN gateway? What does a full fault scan of all control modules show?

Ok, so it sounds like you got the control module variant that only does basic trailer lighting rather than the full setup for caravan electrics. It's always a good idea to make sure everything works before you reassemble the car, especially on this job because it is such a pain to get to the install location for the controller. I would double check the CANBUS wiring at the BCM, as errors here would certainly mess things up. It might help to disconnect the towing module from the harness here and return the car to stock wiring: this would confirm that the car systems are still functioning correctly.

Can you post details of the electrical kit you installed, and the coding instructions you followed? Does this problem occur all the time or only when a trailer is connected ? What happens if you unplug the towing control module?

I'd guess it could be a coding issue in one of the control modules. It sounds like the car isn't aware that you have fitted AFS and is therefore not sending the necessary commands to it.

Most people who do a reversing camera retrofit on the earlier car just cut out the aperture to suit the camera.

OP's mention of 138 bhp suggests 2.0 TDI, which would have the DQ250 wet clutch 'box.

All tightening must be done with the car off the ground per Skoda service manual. Use the brake to counterhold the hub while tightening, you can get an assistant to put their foot on the brake or use a suitable device to hold the pedal down.

Transmission rating and driveshaft size are based on the engine, so it's a good proxy and more likely to get a useful answer.

What engine?

Where did you get the 12 V from? Is there enough current available to drive the lights on the trailer?

Look at the numbers across the bottom. You're looking for 130 down there. It's not on that diagram.

That'll be on another diagram.

You can purchase the service manual (which includes wiring diagrams) from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

You'll need a fault scan to confirm but I'd be willing to bet you have an issue with one or more ABS wheel speed sensors, either a faulty sensor or damaged wiring. All of the systems you describe in your post take speed information from the ABS using the wheel speed sensors.

The DSG will change gears on cruise if the load on the engine demands it, it's normal behaviour.

If you're still on the original battery, it's time for a replacement. The electronics on these cars really don't like weak batteries.

Not the engine temperature, the oil temperature from the MFD, should be the third item as you scroll through. If it's not shown you'll need to go into MFD settings to enable it. The coolant temperature gauge is designed to read 90 over a large range of temperatures which is why oil temperature is a much better guide. On a recent trip with the caravan I had oil temperatures up to nearly 120 °C and the coolant gauge stayed resolutely at 90.

Impact wrench if you have access? When I faced something similar on the Superb a few weeks ago I used the angle grinder. If you're worried about damaging the ARB, split the nut and stud vertically, or cut across the nut just above the flange. I think a nut splitter is going to struggle with the flange on that nut.

Which parameter is this? Front camber can't be adjusted individually on each side, but can be equalised by loosening the front subframe,and shifting it left or right as needs be. VAG make a special adjuster tool for the purpose.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479907-rear-suspension-information/

It's broken so yes, it's necessary. That sensor is part of the level control system so if it's broken that won't work correctly .

Well you know the front sensor is faulty anyway so you need to replace it no matter what. If replacing it fixes your problem, great. If it doesn't, then you've ruled out a possible cause.

Wobbling suggests a bearing. Jack up the corner that's getting hot and check for play in the bearing.