chimaera

I think the paid version of Carista can do it too. As an aside, turning on the ignition with any part of the airbag system disconnected will result in a fault code that needs VAG compatible diagnostics to reset.

When you say the towbar is removed, do you mean that it's a detachable towball that has been removed while not in use, or that a previously fitted towbar assembly has been removed? Any idea what electrical kit was/is used? The OE electrics, and the better quality aftermarket options, communicate with the CANBUS controller and let it know when a trailer is connected up, which then signals to the parking sensor controller to temporarily deactivate the rear parking sensors. Cheap bypass relay setups don't do this, and it sounds like one of these has been fitted and the parking sensor system deactivated. As for where to start with the parking sensor system, it's complicated. It shares a fuse with the headlight control system (fuse 5), so it's unlikely to have been deactivated that way. The most robust way to disable the system would be to unplug the control unit and code it out on the CAN gateway. A diagnostic scan would be useful here to see if the parking sensor controller shows up. The controller is fitted behind one of the side panels in the boot: service manual says RHS, but I've some recollection that it's reversed for RHD cars. If you're planning to keep the towbar, consider buying a good electrical kit that will work with the vehicle's other systems and avoid problems like this one.

I think it was about a litre in total. Coolant is not expensive in any case. It was something like a fiver for a bottle from my local dealer.

Turned on the starter motor or by hand?

How exactly was the crank turning? If the engine was being turned over on the starter and there's no drive to the camshafts, the head is almost certainly trashed now.

Looking at pictures of the sprockets suggests they're probably taper fit.

On which part of it?

You seem to have misunderstood me. What I was pointing out is that the halogen bulb is fixed in the headlamp unit, unlike the xenon bulb which is controlled by AFS. I then pointed out that the headlamp unit with the bulbs in it is adjustable using the two screws, and that a diagnostic tool is needed for this to set AFS controller in basic settings before makung the adjustment.

I had to do mine just before Christmas thanks to a failed water pump at 150000 km. €540 including replacement of cam and crankshaft oil seals (they weren't gone but mechanic suggested it'd do no harm to change them while everything is opened up).

The halogen bulbs are fixed in the housing; only the xenons are adjusted by AFS. If the aim is off you can adjust the aim of the whole headlamp unit using the adjustment screws, but you will need diagnostics to put the AFS into basic settings mode first.

Download it free from https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

The OE sharkfin is really easy to change. Pop down the headlining at the boot opening, use an 11 mm spanner to undo the nut holding the antenna, unplug and remove the antenna. Fitting is the reverse of removal. About 10 minutes work in total. Either way, make sure it's actually the antenna that's at fault first.

What they said. You can download the full build sheet from erWin (look for "Vehicle Specific Information" in the menus) which will have all the PR codes for your car. You can cross-reference those with the online parts catalogues. An hour's subscription to erWin is about a tenner and is more than enough time to find the build sheet. You'll probably need more time if you want to grab service manuals and technical campaign info too. You're not limited to a single VIN during a session so if friends or colleagues have a Skoda, you could grab info for them too if you like. The clock on the subscription starts ticking as soon as the payment clears and is based on clock time rather than time spent logged on i.e. if you pay at for an hour at 15:00 your sub expires at 16:00.

HID bulbs fade over time. If yours are on the original bulbs, it might be time to swap them out. If the leveling sensors fail, the AFS functionality will shut down and you'll get a warning on the dash.

I don't know, sorry, and the service manual doesn't day anything about it either. I'd say turn gently in either direction and see where it goes.

That link is for the mk1 Superb so it doesn't apply to your car. For the mk2, the adjustment screw nearest the wing is the horizontal adjustment and the screw nearest the centre of the car is the vertical adjustment. For a car with bi-xenons and AFS, you will need to put the AFS controller into Basic Settings with a diagnostic tool before doing any mechanical beam adjustment.

The panel that holds the regulator is held in place with bolts. When mine went last year, I sourced the whole assembly from a motor factors for relatively sane money (I'd have to dig out the invoice to double check) and swapped the motor/guide rails onto the original carrier panel that was in my car. About an hour's work in total IIRC. The most fiddly bit of the job is reinserting the plastic bushing that secures the glass onto the regulator mechanism. It's easy enough to push it too far and have it fall out behind the panel into the door and then you have to unbolt it and start all over again. Also beware that the lock needs to be unscrewed from the door to remove the carrier panel, as the lock attaches to that.

Some people (myself being one) have difficulty processing written text and understanding what the person writing it was trying to say, it's just the way their brain is wired. When you write a big long run-on sentence with no grammar or punctuation, you're making it much, much harder for people to read it and understand what you're trying to say. My immediate reaction to what you posted above was to switch off and walk away because of the effort needed to try and figure out what you said. You've been given good advice on this thread by other posters. Start with that and report back with what you find.

I'm waiting on something to arrive from Czech via GLS at the moment. It's taking a while and I phoned GLS about it last week. The person I spoke to said that a lot of their deliveries to Ireland have been slowed down due to Brexit as they can no longer use the UK landbridge option and are using direct ferries from Northern France to here.

If it's a Skoda unit then it should be fine to leave it in. Aftermarket units can have non-standard wiring which could mess with other vehicle systems, a trap the unwary can fall into.

When you say the radio is an upgrade, what do you mean exactly? If it's an aftermarket unit, did you fit it yourself, or was it fitted for you (or did it come with the car when you bought it)? Any idea how it was wired in? Looking at that scan, my hunch is something is gone wrong with the CAN gateway or BCM (vehicle voltage controller), possibly caused by the radio. If you have the original head unit that came with the car, I'd start by putting that back in, clear all fault codes, cycle the ignition and rescan for faults. Even if you don't have the original radio, it's worth clearing all faults then cycling the ignition and scanning again. You'll clear any old codes and get back whatever is currently going on.

Looking at the service manual, the labour doesn't look to be ridiculously bad on these to drop the DPF. If you're thinking of getting the DPF cleaned, check with the company whether they need the DPF removed or not, and whether they are quoting just for cleaning, or for removal, cleaning and refitting. If they are removing the DPF to clean it, your comparison at that point is the cost of a new DPF vs the cost of the cleaning process as the labour is otherwise the same. If you can find someone who is known to be good at cleaning the DPF it may be the better option, even if it doesn't last as long as a brand new DPF, given the age of the car and your annual mileage. I have my doubts about fuel additives, there's only so much they can do. It would be worth your while getting a bluetooth OBD adapter and installing the VAG DPF app on your phone: it allows you monitor the DPF condition in real time and can alert you when a regen cycle is coming up. Most of the trouble with DPFs comes from regen cycles not getting sufficient time to complete, especially on low mileage cars, leading to a buildup of soot in the filter that exceeds the engine's ability to clear it during regen. When I see a regen coming up on my Superb, I make sure to take the long way on my journey so it has time to complete the regen.

Looks like you're getting wear on the inside shoulder which is common enough. Is it a Greenline or standard model? Most likely it's a combination of sagging rear springs & dampers and wheel alignment being a bit off. I posted details of the geometry in the thread below. See what your ride height is like before going any further.

Or avoid sketchy websites & pay for an hour's subscription at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Enough time to find & download your car's build sheet (called "vehicle Specific Information").

So what scan tool have you been using until now? Some cheap tools have been known to mess up coding on control modules.