inspectorman

Production date 16 Sep 2020 Online manual instructions/conditions to enable OTA set : No OTA shown as available for my VIN in my country : No Hardware Version: H56 Device part number: 5E3035816J Current Infotainment version: 1941 OTA Updates currently being received for: Infotainment: No Maps: Yes Apps: Yes So.... H and J are non-OTA. ISTR that the device part number was not what it said (a part number) but was a combination of software and hardware. I could be wrong. My car has gone C -G - J and 1664 - 1668 - 1806 - 1896 - 1941. With a replacement steering wheel after the dealer tried say it wasn't that. Exactly as much fun as it sounds.

Buried deep in the Skoda pages is this little gem; etc etc which seems to imply some of the super early models could get it; but there was a period when it couldn't. Then, theoretically it should be able to get it (OTA update) from 11/2020 production date. I have a dreary sequence of device part number and software changes done by the dealer (but, of course, no helpful detail on what they actually did). I put 1941 on myself and it seems to be stable enough for me to not wish to get any higher. I do not have this little box ticked (sob).

This kind of thing might be easier to get in behind the plastic. The socket itself is square and should be straightforward to grip. And you can monitor progress by observing the socket hole. Snipe nose pliers - other brands are available.

On the edge of the lip of the glovebox. As you push the lid closed, you can feel where the lip contacts. Smaller ones on the rear lip, slightly bigger ones on left and right of the side lips.

More here. Some repetition. https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/1-2-tsi-engine-fuel-leak.36064/?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#replies

You should be looking up fuel leak or "Major Fuel Leak - Due to bolts shearing on the fuel injector rail assembly" on this forum. Lots of info here; https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495523-major-fuel-leak-due-to-bolts-shearing-on-the-fuel-injector-rail-assembly/#comment-5560649

Yep - that's a lot more unpleasant than the odd marks lower down. The dampness on the spring is oil which should be inside the shock. Time to get the wallet out (and buy your mechanic a beer). 10 years though!

Doesn't look much like a leak. I'd clean it all off , inspect, then inspect again in a couple of weeks. Having said that, if they're the originals, they've done pretty well. You might be looking at replacing the pair at MoT time.

My glovebox rattled from new. Fixed with some supplementary rubber - use those dots or strips - to stop the hard plastic lid rattling against the hard plastic surround. But I can't say your sound sample sounded like my rattle (don't have a diesel).

This is an owners forum, not a service centre. What you are seeing is a classic case of subject drift - where contributors digress away from the original question. Easy enough to skim past if it's not relevant or interesting to you. If you search the forums for "cambelt" you'll be able to understand the sorry tale of how Skoda UK maintained for years that the cambelt on this engine had be be changed at 5 years / 50,000 miles; unlike every other country they sold this engine in. Then, two years ago, they magically changed their minds. Leaving those of us who'd shelled out for this expensive and unneccessary work, slightly miffed*. That's why you are seeing conflicting information on the interwebs. Your local dealer will be able to say what is appropriate for your region. * Understatement

Always worth asking the airhead on the front desk what criterion are they using to condemn the discs. Disc thickness? Runout? Delamination? Excessive scoring? They should recognise this as code for; " not going to work on me, sunshine"

Magic potion sees oil leak and seals it (maybe). Magic potion sees small passageway in oil system and seals that too. New car time.

Looks like you need to start with the two clips at the rear. Then keep working along to disengage the two big clips halfway along the side. Then withdraw the unit to the rear after disengaging those two long prongs at the front.

Looks deliberate. Here's one off ebay

That's almost 9 psi down at the rear and over 7 psi down at the front. Compliant it may be but you now need to monitor tyre wear on the shoulders - particularly on the inside which is harder to check.

Given the normal variability of tyre pressure when in use, plod would not be able to say with any confidence the tyre pressures were a factor unless they were grossly over or under inflated. And for that the vehicle investigator would also be looking at wear patterns of under / over inflation.

The comparison with your diesel Mk3 is only valid if the tyres are exactly the same. Your extra weight of the E-Tec bits makes only a marginal difference compared to a 2020 non-ETec 1.5 SEL. here's the flap info; I can't say I've noticed bounciness at these pressures but I'm not Lewis Hamilton. Try dropping them - I wouldn't go 5psi down, maybe 2 or three to start. The other factor here would be the accuracy of your tyre pressure measuring gauge.. how close to true is it? I'm lucky enough to have a Bailey & Mackey gauge which was a special offer in Motorcycle News decades ago - being a proper gauge manufacturer they will check calibration for you if you ask nicely. Couple on your favourite auction site at the moment.

I have had a number of Skodas - most of them suffered from terrible rear disc quality from new. One set even chose to delaminate substantial flakes as I drove down the road and heard them hitting the rear wheel liner. Almost any proper brand will do. Brembo, Mintex, Pagid, TRW - each have their fans. Do not under any circumstances get them from a Skoda dealer. Last set I did cost me £42 and less than an hour of my time.

Tell them to do the navigation maps update too. Those maps are over six years old. It was a long road - mine was delivered in Oct 2020 - but we are now sorted. It must have cost Skoda a fortune in warranty work (and VW, Seat, Audi). Once the local dealer stopped BS'ing me, we got on OK. This site was a godsend.

Tyres the same? Pressures set OK? If so then there may be a setting down in 44 - Steering Assist in VCDS to alter the amount of assistance. ISTR doing this 7/8 years ago because of complaints the steering was too light. I was unconvinced the feel had changed but herself was happy. YMMV.

Looking like your battery is the issue. Get yourself onto tayna's website and order a decent battery. Usually arrives the next day and the coding can wait until you sort yourself out or find a local with the kit. VCDS owners on a map elsewhere on the forum.

Looking like your battery is the issue. Get yourself onto tayna's website and order a decent battery. Usually arrives the next day and the coding can wait until you sort yourself out or find a local with the kit. VCDS owners on a map elsewhere on the forum.

Your (second) set of voltage readings seem fine. Bear in mind that the static volt reading just after the engine has been running will display a (slightly) higher value than it truly is. Measuring the voltage from the positive pole to the earth point may identify a different voltage, meaning your earth strap or contact has become suboptimal. Your ECU is reporting a high drain, which in turn will not allow stopstart to operate. The tedious part of the analysis is now identifying which part of the car is responsible - is the heated windscreen really off when you switch it off, for example? A scan may or may not help here. Good luck

It might be as simple as a failing ABS sensor. Such a failure will give you an alarming multitude of faults - which are all related to the control systems not having the right wheel info from the sensor. A scan will quickly identify if you are lucky to have this (easily sorted) fault. But if it's already been to the dealer he should have spotted this. Battery health is worth checking yourself - it may well start but a dying battery gives all sorts of strangeness to modern cars. Sitting around waiting for repairs may have done it no good. Knowing what the Cat N damage was might point you to areas of concern - front or back shunt, say? Good luck. Your dealer doesn't sound that helpful.

CTEK have been my choice for the past 20 years. One died after six years or so but my batteries have been kept in good shape (or maybe I got lucky). Anything approaching 12V on a quick and dirty measure gets the top-up. Can't comment on the NOCO one.