MarkyG82

@NikTheGeek check this out. Found it in the garage so happy to take more pics.

As with all retrofits, anything can be done. depends on your appetite for pulling the car apart. Assuming the seats are the same and are able to take the cable you will need the side trims in the boot and the catches/cables. Plus any other supporting parts. Best bet would be a breakers yard and start pulling cars apart. Otherwise an hour on erwin should give you the part numbers you need.

I read an article a few years back about gearbox types and basically said there were now 3 types. Manual, auto (slush and cvt) and dsg (single and dual clutch). Went on to say that you drive all three in different ways. I think all cars with a dsg style box shouls have paddles to allow you to drop it into the right gear for occasions such as Baverhanne described. My GTE doesnt suffer in quite the same way although I now have the transition from E to hybrid to deal with. I have a dogbone insert waiting to go in but not convinced it'll help much. What would help is a long press of the down paddle (like the long press on the up to put it back into auto) to get the engine running. That way I could get more power on demand without it going .............. oh you want more power... REVVVVVVVVV!!!!!!!

@NikTheGeek will do as soon as I find it. We moved a couple of weeks ago and the house/garage is carnage right now.

I did a for sale post a little while ago. Can't remember what I put it up for. Probably something like £70+PNP? I remember it was less than other were asking as it's not flat bottom.

Yes. If you currently have a multifunctional steering wheel then a similar wheel with paddles should be plug and play. I have one going spare but don't think postage from the UK would be the cheapest for you. Shout if you have trouble finding one though.

The other side to roots argument is that a new part could be faulty (unlikely). Whereas the original/current part could be reused if known to be in acceptable condition. If paying someone to do the work then I would always have a new part as the cover you should get far outweighs the extra couple of quid cost.

I think you'd be better off with a wipe of 3in1. GT85 is only slightly better than WD so will do a good job of breaking down any thicker lubricant that is there.

That's interesting. I've not seen those before. Seen the tethers that go over the back but not down the front. Having looked at the design I wouldn't have them come out the side of the rail. They are designed to be inline with the seat rail to take the load. Did you manage to get the hole to line up to get the bolt back in?

Can you explain what these tether things do. Or even a link to a description. Trying to understand what it is before I offer any help. PS. I have kids and car seats for them so fairly familiar with different setups. Or so I thought.

Kerb soapsud please.

Not a skoda but I have had my Passat gte for a couple of months now ans enjoying it. As I get used to it I am making a list of things I want to change but that is the same for any car. I have been getting 26 miles readout as the range pretty much every day. You would only get that if driving very carefully with no lights, AC, etc. I have a 26 mile round trip commute and use hybrid mode for half of it and generally return home with 0 battery miles. Did my first long trip at the weekend (prepping my late fathers house for sale before anyone suggests it was not a required journey ), and got just over 50 mpg onboard readout for the round trip of 240 miles with no recharge at the other end. That was with preheat and a full battery to start. As fa as the driving style goes, in GTE mode (not sure on the skoda mode, Sport?) it feels much like my remapped octavia with a 2.0 tdi 150 (mapped to 180 ish). The torque delivery etc. feel very familiar. When not in GTE mode it feels very chilled and relaxed but still with plenty go to get you places. A fair bit of delay from the engine firing up when asking for more from EV mode. And be careful you dont hold the go pedal too far down as the engine will scream. Lots of power but cnt be good for the mechanicals in th cold engine. One thing to realise though is the variant of the 1.4 in these cars is different to the standard 1.4 and has been setup to ask for full power from cold. This is why all the plug-ins use the 1.4 so they dont have to chnage the tooling. The mods I have ready to go: Spacers, 12m front, 15mm rear. For the looks mainly. Dogbone insert, I have one spare from not fitting it to the octavia (2 types). I really enjoyed the benefits from this so will be fitting it soon. I may fit lowering springs but not sure yet. Will wait to see how the insert and spacers feel. Just want it to be a bit sharper in the handling.

Quite easy to change the socket. Something to do with removing the screen then pulling the air controls out to get access. 10 minute job.

The speed bumps were those mound in the middle types and I went over one 4up without avoidance the day after having the springs done. Just didn't put 2 and 2 together. The shocks were B6 as I hadn't originally planned on lowering. We were also unsure if they had inbuilt bumpstops on the rear shocks so the oem ones were refitted. These were the ones I cut down as sitting unloaded there was not more than an inch or so of free travel before the stops. After I cut them the ride was much improved although the turn in before was crazy sharp. So, granted the setup I had was not fully B12 but the old style B12 that had B6 shocks. Also the fact that I had torsion beam kept some of the awkward stiffness. Was great fun to drive though. I'm now trying to convince myself not to do the same with the passat.

It was the car hitting speed bumps. I had to cut the bump stops a little to make it more comfy for daily driving. In the 2 years I had it like that I only carried 4 up 2 or 3 times. Was the prokit so 30-35mm drop on standard. 15-20mm drop on vrs.

I had that setup on my octavia but with torsion beam rear end. Yes it was stiff but I found it actually just as comfy as stock due to the more matched setup. It also handled much much better. Was a bit too low for 4 adults though.

The listed drop is from stock height. Vrs is already 15mm down so knock that off the quoted figures. The above is true for your H&R figure. Prokit numbers look like the original drop is already accounted for.

My octavia had the same issue. Was like that for the 3 years I had it but never popped a window even after shutting it on the rear screen a couple of times. Window shades helped a bit as they softened the knocks somewhat.

I missed that 20km/day bit. Thought it was /trip. 10km or 6 miles per trip is not enough for this engine. You need at least a 30-60 minute blast every week or 2 to get it clear. The dpf will be clogged up in no time.

is it on the original water pump? could be the start of the transfer valve going. Also should have had a cambelt by now and it's a good time to get the pump done at the same time.

Had a polo 1.0 95hp the other day as hire car. Was surprisingly good and I thought it was 1.2 till the guy told me. Granted it was a smaller car but if you need the bigger space for occasions rather than the norm then it should be fine. If desparatley needing more power then a pedal box and/or map will do wonders.

Firstly, I know this is not a VW forum bit the knowledge in here is the best I've come across and is loads more active than the other forums I'm on. There has been a fair bit of talk lately on suspension improvement of the superb. With the superb IV and Passat GTE being so similar I wondered if IV owners have had the same thoughts. I had a look on a couple of car parts catalogues and they list the same shocks (rear at least) for 2.0tsi and 1.4hybrid. With the hybrid weighing so much more (200kg?) I thought this must contribute to the bounce. Having fitted B6 shocks to my Octavia I am well aware of the benefits. This time I'm thinking the koni versions would be more suitable as I don't intend to lower it....yet. Roll I am happy with. Seems very controlled in that respect. Pitch/dive doesn't seem to bad but I don't feel able to push the car too much so maybe I haven't noticed it yet. Definitely think lowering springs are the solution. Too much free movement following an impact to consider higher springs rates. What would briskoda do? (WWBD?)

I guess it depends on how long you plan to keep it. Long term? Get the dpf replaced. Not so long term? Get it cleaned. Maybe even consider a replacement exhaust with high flow dpf or even removal if you country allows?

Oh yes. Missed that. Not familiar with the dpf app so missed it. With that sort of mileage and age it should be fine to give it a good blast as you say.

What sort of driving have yo been doing? and how many miles has the car done?