petrolbloke

Could be a number of things: Top mounts Wishbone bushes ARB drop links ARB bushes (or the plastic sleeves on the ARB) Ball joints Track rods / ends Broken spring (would expect a garage to spot that though!) On my old one I replaced all of the above at some point in the 12 years I owned it and track rods/ends were replaced more than once. There was one knocking noise that I lived with for a long time because it was never even an advisory on the MOT - that was caused by a knackered rear top mount.

I'm not a mechanic, but it doesn't sound terminal. 🤞 Sounds to me like it could be the cambelt or aux belt. Have either of those been touched recently? It looks like 210,000 has been tipex'd on to the cover, what's the mileage (or kilometerage) of the car now? Your best bet is to take it to a garage if you're not confident fettling with it yourself - if there is something fouling the cambelt or the cambelt is loose and fouling on something then it could be bad news if it snaps. If there is any damage to the cambelt then it should be replaced.

OP is located in Australia. I reckon the shipping will be prohibitively expensive 😅

Hard to say without hearing it. Could you upload it to YouTube and post the link here? (you can upload as unlisted so only people with the link can view it and it doesn't show up in search results)

1. Yes (in the UK market at least) 2. Markings on the inside of the rim. You might be able to find photos of what they should look like online. I'm not sure if there's any/many copies of these wheels about though - certainly not as many as some of the older Audi RS style wheels.

I think if I was in this unfortunate situation I'd look at buying another car and selling the one with the knackered engine for spares/repair and let someone else do the lottery with a replacement engine. It could even work out cheaper in the long run if the engine replacement went badly. If I was going to get the engine replaced I'd be looking to get one from the most reputable supplier you can find, trying to verify the history of it and paying on a credit card.

Maybe a previous owner upgraded the RARB. Can you measure it with a vernier caliper?

Nice! Sorry if I missed it but I don't think your advert says if it's auto or manual.

I'm running Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6s on the front of mine. They have much better rim protection than the Yokohamas that are on the rear (and were on the car when I got it). When ATS have an offer on I've found their prices very competitive - I think I paid about £170 for the pair of Goodyears fitted. There wouldn't be a huge amount extra sidewall by switching to 235/40s. I haven't looked at the price difference. I'm intending to stick with 225/40s all round on mine.

Sounds like that might be a hardware issue and if so updating might not be a good idea (I don't know how fail safe the update process is).

16" wheel might not fit over the front brakes on the VRS. Not on my petrol one anyway, maybe on the diesel if the brakes are smaller.

I haven't done it but it looks pretty straightforward from this video: Do you know if there's an interval for replacement?

Hit the first notable milestone in my (new-ish) to me Octy the other day.

Try pulling the handle on the inside while repeatedly pressing the unlock button on the driver's door.

Poster's profile says they're in Sydney. There can be differences in spec between markets and it'll take 30 seconds with a tape measure so I'd just measure it. That said if I had to take an educated guess it'd be on it having 340s. I don't know, but I'd recommend buying a piston rewind kit. Having the right tool for the job makes such a difference.

I have similar thoughts to you, but only had my MK3 for ~2 months. Fuel economy so far seems to be similar. I was expecting the MK3 to be a bit better.

I'd be very surprised if they were android based.

Has anyone got recent experience with servicing at Skoda BSE? My car will need a service later this year and not sure where I'm going to take it yet.

Have you put the wipers into the service position to replace them? I haven't tried to do it without putting them into the service position but I imagine it would be more difficult or impossible.

Did you check the regulator while replacing the motor? When mine failed it was with the same symptoms you describe.

I think what you are experiencing is clipping: Clipping (audio) - Wikipedia Clipping Example (youtube.com) (between your phone and car head unit) Can you try the radio or USB/SD card input as well? Reason for asking about EQ was that if you boost the audio signal from your phone using EQ settings then it could cause clipping.

Equalization (audio) - Wikipedia

I doubt it's the speakers themselves at fault. Is your phone doing any EQ? What were the results with the aux input?

If you reset the service indicator I believe that will switch the car over to fixed interval servicing. It sounds like the service indicator wasn't reset at the last service, either because it wasn't showing or whoever did it didn't know how to reset it. Whether you reset it or not you should make a note of the date/mileage that the next service should be done at so you're not relying on the service indicator. If you do reset it now you should also reset it at the next service even though it won't be showing. I used to service mine every year or 10,000 miles and used 5W-40 502/505 spec oil. I didn't like the idea of going up to 2 years/20k between oil changes and I was DIY servicing so it was cheap to do anyway.

Lots of other threads on this subject, here is just one: A cambelt will eventually degrade, but it might be that due to advances in technology they don't need replacing as often on some of these modern engines compared to cars from 20+ years ago.