mac11irl

ftfy.... outside of dublin dab is pointless.... jackeen p***ks

well later never happened last wednesday. it didnt happen thursday either. so Friday i got out, nice ride out. then saturday morning was a bit nicer.. and today was a fun one. i couldve done with 4 hrs more sleep, but it was an enjoyable pedal. avg speed was up a bit too, which i put down to dropping a couple of sprockets and getting ip outa the saddle for a 500m "sprint" to the top of the bypass hill. felt that in the thighs...

no hassle.they really did fit very well, even the front seat squab covers which are baggy af on most covers ive bought. and the 60/40 split for rear seats went on really well too

and this help was brought about only because of @Wino finding your mention of not being familiar with "doors" being a bike guy funny

mine was a back door, but i didnt think the fronts were different? or is there an "uprated" foam version for the front doors???

google 7zap, and go digging there for your part number then fleabay for a chinese pattern job. they are nominally about 30quid (last time i was looking for one, for an octy) and work just fine.

25 Zimbabwean dollars

id put money on the lock module dying slowly.

update.... https://www.conrad.com/p/petex-22574901-dakar-sab-1-vario-plus-seat-covers-17-piece-polyester-anthracite-857740 it wasnt this website, but these were the covers i got. i got them through micksgarage.ie at the time and they were available as car specific.

ill check my emails as to where i got mine for my mk1 a few years ago. they were properly fitted to the seat shape. and around 60 quid i think. looked and felt decent and had them im the car fir 4 of the 4 1/2yrs i had the car

depends on how much your willong to pay tbh.. and what kind of cover you want.

i dont... it was just a lock mech replacement i was doing so didnt bother as there was plenty of them done already. sorry about that :(

no idea, but to be homest comparing the "clear" sheeting i used and the clear sheeting i took off the difference is.... the oem one is machine cut to the shape of the door, mine was stanley bladed to shape once fitted. i also used duct tape to reinforce it around the cable holes..

that looks really straight and well looked after

is the AXR the one put in the "taxi special" used to sell off the mk1 shells from 05-10 by skoda? i assume so if yours is 2008. first thing - check the injector pt number against the ones for the higher output engines. eg the ALH 1.9 i had in my 04 mk1 could be brought from 90bhp to 110 just by changing the injectors and getting the fueling at idle adjusted.. once the injectors are right, the rest is just ecu mapping as the 1.9s are essentially the same. as above though, get someone who actually knows what theyre doing, not someone with a dodgy (cloned) vcds lead and a generic set of changes to make.

id be more inclined to do turbochecks and cleaning first...

i wouldnt trust double sided tape.. itll be hard to get a 100% continuous bond with 0 gaps, and over time the water that naturally goes through the door (it will always and forever get passed the rubber strip at the window) will breakdown the glue. i used 1500gauge dampproofing builders plastic sheeting and bonded it with pvc pipe jointing compound. all designed for long term water exposure.

are your current ones definitely oem? if a previous owner cganged them already they might not have gone with original parts..

normally if its the maf you get a lumpy idle where it doesnt settle down. im not familiar with the 1.6mpi, but removing the maf is normally pretty easy - disconnect the jubilee rings (or similar) either side of it and unplug the cable. if youve never done anything with vag wiring have a quick look on youtube on how to disconnect the plugs, theres a knack to it. then youll have your maf and follow the instructions on the cleaner ypu got welcome to brisky from Tipp, btw

hi @Climber what engine code do you have? sounds like either the vanes are sticking (dependent on engine code and thus turbo type) or actuator solenoid is failing

it may then be unhooked at the top or bottom? so its working but not properly attached to the frame.

was awoken at 3am.. got back asleep about 530... aint no way im goin cycling at 7am after that! fingers crissed later on..

no sneaky pics??

got out this morning. i was too bloody knackered yesterday morning so binned it when i woke up and went back asleep. 16k lap in 41 and a bit mins. slower than i had been getting to but it was a nice pedal and all things considered it was good. even the sticky drizzle didnt bother me

the plastic in the driver seat will be the lumbar support. if you wind the knob and nothing changes, its broken. i did a guide about 8 yrs ago on here, how to get in to it to fix/replace it. its somewhere in the octy guides section, with a pdf attatched