mac11irl

25 Zimbabwean dollars

id put money on the lock module dying slowly.

update.... https://www.conrad.com/p/petex-22574901-dakar-sab-1-vario-plus-seat-covers-17-piece-polyester-anthracite-857740 it wasnt this website, but these were the covers i got. i got them through micksgarage.ie at the time and they were available as car specific.

ill check my emails as to where i got mine for my mk1 a few years ago. they were properly fitted to the seat shape. and around 60 quid i think. looked and felt decent and had them im the car fir 4 of the 4 1/2yrs i had the car

depends on how much your willong to pay tbh.. and what kind of cover you want.

i dont... it was just a lock mech replacement i was doing so didnt bother as there was plenty of them done already. sorry about that :(

no idea, but to be homest comparing the "clear" sheeting i used and the clear sheeting i took off the difference is.... the oem one is machine cut to the shape of the door, mine was stanley bladed to shape once fitted. i also used duct tape to reinforce it around the cable holes..

that looks really straight and well looked after

is the AXR the one put in the "taxi special" used to sell off the mk1 shells from 05-10 by skoda? i assume so if yours is 2008. first thing - check the injector pt number against the ones for the higher output engines. eg the ALH 1.9 i had in my 04 mk1 could be brought from 90bhp to 110 just by changing the injectors and getting the fueling at idle adjusted.. once the injectors are right, the rest is just ecu mapping as the 1.9s are essentially the same. as above though, get someone who actually knows what theyre doing, not someone with a dodgy (cloned) vcds lead and a generic set of changes to make.

id be more inclined to do turbochecks and cleaning first...

i wouldnt trust double sided tape.. itll be hard to get a 100% continuous bond with 0 gaps, and over time the water that naturally goes through the door (it will always and forever get passed the rubber strip at the window) will breakdown the glue. i used 1500gauge dampproofing builders plastic sheeting and bonded it with pvc pipe jointing compound. all designed for long term water exposure.

are your current ones definitely oem? if a previous owner cganged them already they might not have gone with original parts..

normally if its the maf you get a lumpy idle where it doesnt settle down. im not familiar with the 1.6mpi, but removing the maf is normally pretty easy - disconnect the jubilee rings (or similar) either side of it and unplug the cable. if youve never done anything with vag wiring have a quick look on youtube on how to disconnect the plugs, theres a knack to it. then youll have your maf and follow the instructions on the cleaner ypu got welcome to brisky from Tipp, btw

hi @Climber what engine code do you have? sounds like either the vanes are sticking (dependent on engine code and thus turbo type) or actuator solenoid is failing

it may then be unhooked at the top or bottom? so its working but not properly attached to the frame.

was awoken at 3am.. got back asleep about 530... aint no way im goin cycling at 7am after that! fingers crissed later on..

no sneaky pics??

got out this morning. i was too bloody knackered yesterday morning so binned it when i woke up and went back asleep. 16k lap in 41 and a bit mins. slower than i had been getting to but it was a nice pedal and all things considered it was good. even the sticky drizzle didnt bother me

the plastic in the driver seat will be the lumbar support. if you wind the knob and nothing changes, its broken. i did a guide about 8 yrs ago on here, how to get in to it to fix/replace it. its somewhere in the octy guides section, with a pdf attatched

shouldve been pedalling thirsday but had to be at lidl at 8am for planned specials and get spud to school, so binned it on the basis of going that night... disaster night as spud jr had his 13month vax shots so was off form, up late, woke up middle of the night... so friday am got sacked too. ****ing rain friday and saturday morning. and then... last night... well lets just say i couldnt face a cycle this morning... roll on tomorrow to get back on track 🙄

ring dealership and give them the vin, or.... pay for an hrs access to erwin and get as much info as you can in that time.

i got as far as "whole rear axle" and thought.... thats an extreme way to fix your brakes!

are the blades old, or have they been changed and now its an problem? someone may have put them on the wrong way round or they might be the wrong size. i had a work van pitch a wiper blade in a to a field next to a motorway on me one night after someone put the new blades on backwards at service the day before..

given its a diesel.... this may take him a while to find replacements

i had a sticky drum brake issue on my mk1, i just replaced everything back there to be honest.. shoes, spring sets, cylinders and drums.. it was all original at the time so about 10yrs old... id say wino may have it though with the washers above..